Diamonite Electrathon America Racer

Functional Artist

Well-known member
Messages
5,113
Reaction score
2,494
Location
Toledo, Ohio
You make me want to get into FG... I cant imagine how long it would take to get to this level. I should start.
Wonderful! :bannana:

Tryin' ta inspire others...is (1) of the main reasons that I do alot of this stuff :wai:
...& I really enjoy designin' & makin' & showin' folks how ta do stuff...too :thumbsup:
&
I really don't need 20+ karts...either :eek:
...but, that's a whole other story ;)

Yes...do it!

Come up with "a plan"
...start a thread
...& show us what ya come up with :2guns:
 

Functional Artist

Well-known member
Messages
5,113
Reaction score
2,494
Location
Toledo, Ohio
Flipped 'er over ta work on the other side
SAM_6101 (1).JPG
More flangette establishers
SAM_6106 (1).JPG
More fillet(s)
SAM_6107 (1).JPG
Closer up(per) view of a curved fillet
SAM_6108 (1).JPG
Closer up(per) view of a junction fillet
SAM_6109 (1).JPG
* I kinda "got ahead of myself"
...& drilled 1/4" holes along the perimeter flanges
...so, I "ran" a strip of packing/box tape over 'em
SAM_6117 (1).JPG
Then gave everything a coat of the PVA
SAM_6110 (1).JPG
 

Functional Artist

Well-known member
Messages
5,113
Reaction score
2,494
Location
Toledo, Ohio
Cheap old modeling clay works good to seal the flanges too. And it’s easy to remove!
Hey Denny,

Yup, I've seen clay fillets used in many videos (a lot of "rolling snakes")
...& folks using wax for making fillets too (more rolling of material)

I just figured "shooting" fillet material outta a gun would be quicker & more efficient
...& Latex caulk is really easy to find

I was able to just use my finger (to curve the fillets)
...easily cleans up with plain 'ol soap & water
...only costs ~$2.50 a tube
...& whatever fillet material I use, would be coated with PVA :thumbsup:
 

Functional Artist

Well-known member
Messages
5,113
Reaction score
2,494
Location
Toledo, Ohio
Did anyone notice the big 'ol scratch/gouge in this pic?
SAM_6108 (1).JPG
Or the sloppiness of this fillet?
SAM_6109 (1).JPG
Or on this (4) way junction
SAM_6114 (1).JPG
Well...I have found that many minor/superficial "issues" like these, can/will be filled in/covered up by/with the PVA (barrier cream)
...so, in this situation "good enough outweighs the need to be perfect" ;)

I have also, found that some "issues" can just be "covered up" with plastic packing/box tape
...like this "screw hole" :thumbsup:
SAM_6118 (2).JPG
Had ta cut more FG cloth
CSM "pile" is on the left
1708 "pile" is on the right
SAM_6115 (1).JPG
Tools
SAM_6116 (1).JPG
I went ahead & gave (2) non-adjoining sections
...(3) layers of FG cloth

I layed down a layer of CSM first
...& then, layed a couple of layers of the stronger 1708, on top :2guns:

Left rear
SAM_6122 (2).JPG
Right front
SAM_6119 (2).JPG
 

Functional Artist

Well-known member
Messages
5,113
Reaction score
2,494
Location
Toledo, Ohio
After caulking ALL of the "new" seams ta make fillets
...& taping the bolt holes
...I gave the LAST (2) sections a coat of the PVA
SAM_6129 (2).JPG
So far I've used about 1/2 gallon of the PVA on this "plug" mold
...& just by "bagging" the cup & brush, I've been able to use them for this whole project :wai:
SAM_6130 (2).JPG
I went thru ALL (3) gallons of the resin that I originally bought for this project
...but, "if" ya remember, I used some of this resin, ta make (2) floorboards
...& (2) mini-hoods, this summer ;)

So, I ordered a couple more gallons
SAM_6131 (2).JPG
Still had plenty of 1708 FG cloth
...but, the (2) gal package w/30' of 1708 cloth
...wasn't much more than just buying (2) gallons of resin
So now, we gots lots more cloth too :bannana:

Pre-cut...some more cloth (CSM & 1708)
SAM_6133 (2).JPG
Mixed up some more resin
SAM_6134 (2).JPG
Gave the last (2) sections (3) layers...too :)
SAM_6135 (2).JPG
 

Functional Artist

Well-known member
Messages
5,113
Reaction score
2,494
Location
Toledo, Ohio
Dang! thats alotta work! Makes my lazy azz want to avoid FG! Scrap tubing, is the material of choice here at MTL!:banana:
!
Hey T,

I was/have been kinda intimidated (at first)
...but, once ya "wrap your head around it"
...&/then, do it a few times
...it kinda "grows on ya" :cornut:

All of this was required just ta make the mold
...& its a "good size mold" :innocent:
...& needed ta be HEAVY DUTY :cheers2:

See why, I did some practice pieces (floorboards & mini-hoods) first
...& DIDN'T make molds for them...just went ahead & made 'em :2guns:

Now, I should be able ta make a couple of monocoque/bodies "off of/out of it" :thumbsup:
...& they should only require a couple of layers overall
...or like, maybe 3 to 4 layers, in certain areas, that may need re-enforcement ;)

I gave ALL (4) sections a couple more layers (5-6 total...just like the top sections)
...&...I'ma finally DONE o_O

More pics :cheers2:
Tail sections
SAM_6139 (2).JPG
Another view
SAM_6141 (2).JPG
Flange junction
SAM_6138 (2).JPG
Closer up(per) view
SAM_6137 (2).JPG
Other side
SAM_6140 (2).JPG
 

Functional Artist

Well-known member
Messages
5,113
Reaction score
2,494
Location
Toledo, Ohio
Trimmed up the rough edges
SAM_6143 (2).JPG
Then, flipped 'er back over
SAM_6146 (2).JPG
Drilled out the bolt holes
SAM_6147 (2).JPG
Removed the nuts & bolts
...&/then, popped the rear top section "back off"
SAM_6150 (2).JPG
Re-removed the front top section...too
SAM_6151 (2).JPG
Close up of (1) of the flanges that we created
...& seam/fillet
SAM_6152 (2).JPG
 

Functional Artist

Well-known member
Messages
5,113
Reaction score
2,494
Location
Toledo, Ohio
Hey,

Why ya got that saw out? (in the last pic)
...are ya makin' another "plug" for a mold? :unsure:

Nope!

Does anyone remember, earlier this summer, when I mentioned that I was thinkin' about/planning on, installing a steel roof on my house?
...well, that time, has come ;)

To get started, I took another YouTube How to "crash course"
...this time in "how to install a steel panel roof"?

Then, I purchased
...~100 (1' x 4') wooden boards (firring strips)
...(10) 16' steel panels
...(10) 12' steel panels
...(10) pieces of steel ridge cap
...total ~$1,700.00 :huh::mad2:
SAM_6160 (2).JPG
*Back story
About 10 years ago I/we did a complete tear off
...& installed a new asphalt shingle roof

They were supposed to be 20 year shingles
...but, after only ~10 years we are having issues
...& can't see/find any visible issues

So, I'm going to "cap" this roof with steel panels
...& it should/hopefully, be good-n-solid for years to come :thumbsup:

Step (1) laying down some wood :cheers2:
SAM_6162 (2).JPG
 

Functional Artist

Well-known member
Messages
5,113
Reaction score
2,494
Location
Toledo, Ohio
Want to borrow my nail gun?
Hey Denny,

I'm not using many nails on this project
...but, thanks for the offer :thumbsup:

To create the strongest foundation
...& gain the highest wind (uplift) resistance
...the 1" x 4" x 8' boards, are screwed down with 2 1/2" deck screws
...driven thru the roofing & wooden sheeting, directly into the rafters
...& NOT just into the plywood sheeting ;)

Also, gonna reduce the amount/number of "holes" in the roof
...by eliminating these POS Aluminum roofing vents
SAM_6163 (2).JPG
According to the instructions
...to vent the roof, ~2" of the sheeting (&/or any shingles) should be cut away/out
...on each side, of the peak, of the roof
...so, ~4" wide, along the entire ridge line

But I'm not gonna do that just yet
...because with the amount of labor required (mainly by me)
...& the cost (also, supplied by me)
...this project will (have ta) be a spread out
...&/or a continuing "work in progress"

So, I'ma gonna try-n-do-it in "sections" :cornut:
...& this is the side with a leak

Installed wood in the "old vent holes"
...&/also, covered the areas with some of the roofing (repurposing cap material) that had to come off
...& started installing some of the steel panels too
SAM_6166 (2).JPG
Closer up(per) view
SAM_6165 (2).JPG
Got a few more panels "in place"
...then, comes the "screwing"

Lots & lots of screws :huh:
SAM_6167 (2).JPG
 
Top