Desperately Need Help

[JimD]

Just want you to know I did get the driver and the driven. Like the guys pointed out to you they are two different series by Comet. Your driven unit on the jackshaft is 7" and it is a series 20 and it is in good shape other than it needs a good cleaning which I will do and re-lube with a dry graphite. The driver (small one going on the engine) is a series 30 which is asymmetric. You cannot mix the two or you will shred the belt very quickly. The driver unit needs some new springs and a also a good cleaning. Maybe you can find someone to swap with.

When you do put it all back together again the belt should be aligned with the driven unit and the driver unit at neutral. A series 20 always runs much cooler than series 30 because you are NOT forcing the belt up the flat sides of the pulleys, a series 20 the pulleys are working in in unison. Nick -send me an e-mail at Max-Torque or give me a call. Jim

 

[Sanch109]

Thank you for taking a look at the pulleys for me. From what I have learned recently, I thought the driver was a 30 series and the driven was a 20 series. So it sounds like I need to buy a 20 series Driver pulley.

I do not fully understand your 2nd paragraph. I will send you an email.

 

[bob58o]

Are 30 series parts cheaper than 20 series?
If it is needed to either swap the driven unit to 30 series, or the driver unit to 20 series… would one prefer to have the 30 series for parts availability and price when thinking about maintenance down the road?

 

[Denny]

For his application the 20 series is the better choice for a CVT. He needs a drive system with a symmetrical belt due to the clutches being facing different directions. Make sense?

 

[bob58o]

For his application the 20 series is the better choice for a CVT. He needs a drive system with a symmetrical belt due to the clutches being facing different directions. Make sense?

Was I supposed to read more than the current page?

 

[JimD]

What are you putting the t/c on a mini-bike or a go kart? If you are building your own jackshaft then go with a series 20 for a go kart but for a minibike the bolt on backing plate is by far the simplest system to mount and problem free and those all are Series 30 with the flat side towards the engine. .

 

[Denny]

He’s got a kart with a separate jack shaft.

 

[JimD]

Denny -- I was just getting back to Bob58o since he hadn't read all the threads from Nick in Texas.

 

[JimD]

Nick from Texas get an update from me on your parts at my shop, Max-Torque. Jim Donovan

 

[Sanch109]

Hello Jim. I just now sent you an email to info@maxtorque.com.

How would I get an update at your shop?

 

[JimD]

Nick - how is the project coming? You got the driven back by now and I was waiting for the two measurements so I could tell you what belt to get for the series 20 set up you have. Pictures of your completed unit are nice to see.

 

[Sanch109]

Hello Jim. I received the package yesterday. Thanks again for cleaning them up, they look great.

I will get the measurements for you this weekend. My weekdays are busy at the moment.

I did order the driver pulley last week so I should be receiving it soon.

 

[Sanch109]

Sorry for the delay but I was finally able to get the measurements for the belt size. I only moved the engine for the measurements and left the drive shave in the same position. the measurements were 8 1/4 and almost 9 1/2 inches.

I am looking forward to hearing back on what size belt to get.

 

[bob58o]

I think any three of these would fit.
Hit the one in the middle.

 

[Sanch109]

I got the Kart running thanks to all of your help.

However, I have a new problem now.

When I start the predator 212 and move the lever from start to run, the kart start going forward (accelerating) quickly.

What could be causing this? What do I need to adjust?

Thank you for all your help.

 

[Sanch109]

I lowered the idle and the kart doesn't move forward when changing the lever to start now.

 

[bob58o]

Without looking at all the posts, if your engine still has a stock style carburetor and is new, there is a throttle level on top with a nut. Loosen nut to allow the throttle lever to move back and forth. Add a return spring to the throttle lever to make sure the throttle is closed when you are off the gas pedal.

And when working on stuff, it’s best to lift drive wheels off the ground to test that your toys won’t run away from you.

A bit of turning tires in the air is usually fine as long as they stop with a very small amount of force. Once you get some weight in there by sitting, it shouldn’t move.

Or if you don’t have blocks or Jack stands… push it up against a big tree or the neighbors house.

 

[Denny]

Unless you enjoy the exercise from chasing the kart when it runs away on its own.

 

[Sanch109]

Without looking at all the posts, if your engine still has a stock style carburetor and is new, there is a throttle level on top with a nut. Loosen nut to allow the throttle lever to move back and forth. Add a return spring to the throttle lever to make sure the throttle is closed when you are off the gas pedal.

And when working on stuff, it’s best to lift drive wheels off the ground to test that your toys won’t run away from you.

A bit of turning tires in the air is usually fine as long as they stop with a very small amount of force. Once you get some weight in there by sitting, it shouldn’t move.

Or if you don’t have blocks or Jack stands… push it up against a big tree or the neighbors house.

Thanks for the advice. I have a spring on there for the throttle.

 

[bob58o]

If fixed great! If not, some photos of the throttle linkage might help to see what the issue may be.

Denny previously mentioned the nut on the throttle lever pivot. I mentioned it again. I assume you took care of that?

I first read your last post as lowering the idle speed fixed it. When I read it again, it seems it still runs away like a dog with something in his mouth he knows he shouldn’t have.

The nut to loosen is marked with green.
The spot marked in red is where I like to attach return spring. The other end of the spring… I like to hook on the vent holes near the pull start cover. The red arrow pointing towards the direction where the spring would pull from. (It’s not pointing at the governor arm… that’s just coincidence).