Custom manual clutch

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ddowns46

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Nice!! One question though. P/N 8; it appears to use P/N 3 as the inner race, and P/N 9 as the outer race. Am I reading the diagram correctly? And I take it #3 are at least case hardened to be suitable inner and outer races? I know that it can be done; I've worked on enough different style machine tool clutches to know that it works just fine if all the metallurgy is correct.

Also, are you using a shielded type fit to protect the bearing from contamination? While in motion, it doesn't spin; when not in motion, it's going to spin all the time. And with the friction facing zone on one side, and the outer world on the other, running wide open could be a problem. A shielded class seal (like a shielded bearing) would give it durability into the "8's"; considering the market you are looking at, I don't know if you could actually get to the perfect "10".

For those of you who don't catch the scale I just referred to, a "shielded" bearing (for reference) can tolerate up to a slight to moderate amount of contamination. A "sealed" bearing is rated for moderate/ moderately severe contamination zones/applications. Anything higher, the price for the seals start to approach/exceed the cost of the bearing itself.

A shielded bearing will tolerate airborne contaminates that are not under pressure. A sealed bearing (garden/kart variety) is usually rated up to 1 Bar (approx. 15~16 PSI) of pressure applied at the seal joint to race. This is why uncontrolled compressed air is bad, and if you take a power washer to bearing; you are most likely going to get what you deserve.

:cheers2::thumbsup::popcorn:

Both the clutch driver (#3) and the sprocket piece (#9) are hardened 4340 chromoly. For the surface treatment, we opted for a nitrided case to provide the high hardness and abrasion resistance necessary to interface with the needle bearing.

In our clutch, the needle bearing is a "shielded" bearing and provides protection from contamination in moderate environments. Given the larger diameter of a sealed bearing, we would have needed to increase the tooth count to >15 in order to have this type of bearing fit. Our bearing is shielded from the environment by a labyrinth seal which makes it difficult for outside contaminates to reach the bearing since it is unlikely for these particles to travel along the labyrinth to the inside, especially when rotating. That being said, we do not recommend that this clutch be used in aggressive environments, and we recommend that the clutch be taken apart, cleaned, and re-greased periodically if users are in more harsh environments. :thumbsup:
 

machinist@large

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Both the clutch driver (#3) and the sprocket piece (#9) are hardened 4340 chromoly. For the surface treatment, we opted for a nitrided case to provide the high hardness and abrasion resistance necessary to interface with the needle bearing.

In our clutch, the needle bearing is a "shielded" bearing and provides protection from contamination in moderate environments. Given the larger diameter of a sealed bearing, we would have needed to increase the tooth count to >15 in order to have this type of bearing fit. Our bearing is shielded from the environment by a labyrinth seal which makes it difficult for outside contaminates to reach the bearing since it is unlikely for these particles to travel along the labyrinth to the inside, especially when rotating. That being said, we do not recommend that this clutch be used in aggressive environments, and we recommend that the clutch be taken apart, cleaned, and re-greased periodically if users are in more harsh environments. :thumbsup:

:wai::thumbsup::cheers2:

Sounds like you hit all the nails on the head!!! As long as the purchaser's know that this unit is not designed/ rated for mud bog/swamp racing or for powering a mobile sand blasting rig, all parties should be content. People being people though, I'm betting you'll have some humdinger attempted warranty claims somewhere along the lines......:oops:

4340 w/ a nitride case; just nitride? TiN? TiAN? I'm a Machinist/ Machine Builder by trade with a fair bit of Tool & Die/ Mold Making experience. You guys are talking my language here, and I'm seriously interested. Hole-in-Wallet syndrome has me by the throat ATM, but I've got a couple of "IDEAS" percolating in the back of my mind for down the road...

At lower RPM's, how well do you think a pair of these would hold up as the steering clutches in a tracked type vehicle?

:thumbsup::cheers2::popcorn: Pat
 

mckutzy

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OP- I was checking up on this thread again, why does the last pic have a OMB watermark to it?
Checking on this (as best as I can, I'm on my phone), here I thought we had an exclusive first opertunity to get one of these from you. Now all the power to ya about selling it to us (and to whomever you feel like),just I got the the impression were going to be the first, now it seem it may be a while for any here to get one.
I'm not trying to be negitive about your endeavours, I just wonder why show a branded pic from the opposing faction so to speak.
 

DeathStarr89

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looks like he uploaded it over there and that site watermarked it... He probably either linked it or saved/re-uploaded it here.

No big deal IMO...
 

Doc Sprocket

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are you goin to add a mini haudrolic similar to a slave cylinder so that it is feather light to disengauge?:popcorn:

I honestly can't see hydraulic actuation being either necessary, or practical. Given the scale, a "light enough" feel is simply a matter of leverage, as applied by whoever installs it.

Besides- you want to feel something when clutching!
 

machinist@large

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are you goin to add a mini haudrolic similar to a slave cylinder so that it is feather light to disengauge?:popcorn:

I honestly can't see hydraulic actuation being either necessary, or practical. Given the scale, a "light enough" feel is simply a matter of leverage, as applied by whoever installs it.

Besides- you want to feel something when clutching!

While I haven't personally measured the amount of force it takes to run this thing, I can tell you that the design of the friction faces maximizes the surface area, thus lowering the amount of clamp pressure needed to achieve full lockup. Also, since the actuating mechanism is a ramp type cam, the amount of force you would have to exert to cycle this thing is going to be a lot lower than you might think. Also, by just swapping Bellville washers (the springs) the OEM can "Tune" the engagement/ operating characteristics of the clutch to get you what you might be looking for.

Also, remember that we are talking about a clutch for a small gas engine; it's not for use in a full size bulldozer or something.....
 

iVuo

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Finally. Just read through all 12 pages. I like what you've come up with and I'll definitely be purchasing one of these. Keep up the good work! Can't wait to have one of these.
 

rwd4evr

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looks to me like the three balls are riding in a increasing depth hole to engage, disengage when rotated. right?
 

ChrisHartcom

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I have a big opportunity to do an expo with Electrathon of America at one of the Disney tracks. Is it possible that the clutch will be available soon? This would be a new, and desirable, addition to the Electrathon cars and I'd love to be the one to show it off.
 

itsid

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I'd love to get hold on one of those, too.

So if you don't mind my oversea location (small shop in china :D)
please count me in.

'sid
 

itsid

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And his website is still offline.. Maybe something wasn't as perfect as expected in one of the tests and now he fixes that first (of course) maybe he got his machinery and there's something wrong with that; or maybe we'll just have to wait a little bit longer ;)

I started wondering btw, shouldn't it be possible to just get a decent can and mount a manual motorbike clutch in that? (and by decent can I mean a machined piece of steel :D)

'sid
 

ddowns46

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Clutch Update

Hi Everyone,

We apologize for the lack of posts lately but up until recently there hasn't been too many updates. Over the weekend, however, we finally received word from our overseas shop that the production parts had been completed. They are shipping today and we expect an approximate freight time of 30-40 days. Once we have tracking information on the shipment, we will update everyone on the status of the arrival date. The reason that these first parts took so long is that our order was relatively small for the large machine shop that we're using. Since we are funding this project out of pocket, we had to start small but we are hoping to place a much larger order immediately following the sale of these first 110 clutches. In the meantime, we have been continuing to test our prototype units and are extremely impressed with the performance and durability of the unit.

As far as priority goes, we have our own spreadsheet of people that have shown interest either in posts or PMs and we have arranged this list chronologically. When the shipment is near, we will start to send PM's to these individuals to see if they would like to pre-order a unit through our website (secure payment through paypal's merchant service). In addition, we have written a user's manual and filmed a few how-to videos for maintenance and assembly/dis-assembly of the clutch that will be available on the website. The website is set to launch when we plan to take pre-orders in the next couple of weeks. Again we apologize about the delay and we are hopeful that our lead-time issues will be a thing of the past once we can assemble a working inventory of clutch units.
 

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