Custom kart frame and everything else custom :]

[CyB3R_D3MoN]

ok, i have a go-kart and the frame is WAY to heavy. I plan on trying to get some 1 1/4" or 1 1/2" steel square pipe. its the kind that has all those holes in it(ex: 2 cut out circles followed by a capsule shape hole followed by 2 small holes and etc...) i need about 25-30'(extra just incase :]) to build a new frame. i want to get that type because its light and strong, and for looks :] lol

now i have quad tires for it and front suspension all hooked up(plan on extending the A-arms a little more :], front dual brakes(one on each tire), custom large wheel base all steel axle(fairly thick with like $150 bearings =O), and front shocks. Now i plan to take all of this off for the new frame. i also want to drop a snowmobile engine on it. like a 440 or a bit higher.

I have a sketch of what the top and side view will look like but i have to upload it to my computer first in a couple days. its going to have front and back suspension. not independent in the back. just two shocks in the back so like 2 1/2-3' of the back can pivit up and down(almost like quad suspension just not independent in the back) sit about 12" or 14" of the ground, lots of gauges and luminated switches on a diamond plated face plate, chain steering wheel, head and spot lights, 3 pedals(gas. brake and clutch), the clutch will be a custom belt tensioner(works great :]), emergency brake, a lever to keep the clutch pushed in if i want, diamond plated flooring, disc brake in back, belt and chain driven, and leather car seat from any car that looks descent at harrys you pull it .

now i have about 700 to spend on all of this. Do you think it would be enough? this is a first time go-kart project for me but bealieve me i am a F***ING dare-devil lol. i have experience in wireing, welding, machining, and ya lol.

how much do you think a 440 snowmobile engine will cost? doesnt have to be brand new and i dont want it really old. i heard the older 440's suck and need carb. work . i mean i would like to spend at max like $120 on a 440 or bigger that runs. if i could buy a junked up snowmobile that actually ran but had like no plastics or track and stuff like that, that would be great!!!

i should have those sketches and measurments sometime really soon on this thread. i just want to know what you guys think of this. Sound like a good idea or what? im very creative and i work dam near the best with these hands lol :] any comments are GREATLY appreciated.
-Thanks

 

[brendonv]

Doesnt sound that hard. Just sounds like a normal buggy or kart build to me. Only thing i question is why do u want belt and chain drive? Whats the point in that? I mean it can be done but why? Do u mean belt slipper clutch to a pulley on a jackshaft then chain from the jackshaft sprocket to the axle?

 

[modelengineer]

Most builds here are completely "custom".

I vote for using ordinary SHS steel, rather than the random hollow stuff. It will be much stronger, and less prone to corrosion. Also, not necessarily heavier if you use the right size and gauge.

 

[Rickracer]

...I vote for using ordinary SHS steel, rather than the random hollow stuff. It will be much stronger, and less prone to corrosion. Also, not necessarily heavier if you use the right size and gauge.

Ditto, that stuff will fold up like a house of cards when presented with dynamic loads, that's construction material, not chassis material.

 

[DBXFX]

Just FYI, aluminum diamond plate costs 27 bux for a 2'x 2' square at stores. I'm gonna use it on mine because I have a friend that can get it cheap, but I have yet to find any places that sell it in large quantities for a decent price. I'm looking to do basically the same thing as you right now, independent front, swingarm rear, clutch, tranmission, etc. Good luck

Also keep in mind that aluminum diamond plate cannot be welded with your standard mig/arc setup.

 

[modelengineer]

You mean a diamond plate floor right? Attached to a steel frame... a chassis made from aluminium diamond plate would not be good.

 

[hd4ou]

you would be surprised at how much diamond plate aluminum ends up at a scrap metal yard. i have bought it at these places for years and its much cheaper than retail and a lot of it i buy is new and a lot of times they have large pieces. check your local places and see what you come up with. good luck.

 

[CyB3R_D3MoN]

Doesnt sound that hard. Just sounds like a normal buggy or kart build to me. Only thing i question is why do u want belt and chain drive? Whats the point in that? I mean it can be done but why? Do u mean belt slipper clutch to a pulley on a jackshaft then chain from the jackshaft sprocket to the axle?

Well i mean have a configurable[i know thats not how its spelt lol] clutch on the motor with a pulley from there to a pulley wheel. second wheel is on a rod that has a pulley wheel on one end and a sprocket on the other. then i connect that sprocket to the live sprocket on the axle with a chain. oh, btw what chain link size should i use with a 440 engine?

Also, what is a very strong, light weight type of square metal bar? like what gauge, Dia., size, etc...should i use?

 

[Rickracer]

... oh, btw what chain link size should i use with a 440 engine?

Also, what is a very strong, light weight type of square metal bar? like what gauge, Dia., size, etc...should i use?

I'd use 428 chain, plenty strong. And round tubing is stronger per pound than square. 1" square is pretty strong, but not enough for your main frame rails, I'd go 1.5 x 1.5, 3/16" for the main frame rails.

Also, if I were going to all the trouble of building a frame, I'd sure put something besides a snowmobile motor in it, a snowmobile only has one gear, even if it's a CVT, it's no competition to a 5 or 6 speed gearbox and a manual clutch.

 

[modelengineer]

You don't need 3/16" thick wall, it just adds weight. 2mm wall is more than enough (which is a bit less than 1/16")

 

[Rickracer]

You don't need 3/16" thick wall, it just adds weight. 2mm wall is more than enough (which is a bit less than 1/16")

Yes, the thinner stuff might be strong enough, if properly braced and/or triangulated, but it sounds like this is gonna be an off-road kart, (1). Better safe than sorry & (2). A little extra weight can be a good thing for an off-road kart

 

[CyB3R_D3MoN]

well i weigh about 220 lbs.(mostly muscle) so ya. I know how to weld and wear to weld at. there isnt just going to be two main rails going from the back end wear the swing arm will be to the front. i will have about 3 main rails with about id say 2-3 rails going across each bar welded in between each. another question though. Wear would i be able to get a 5-6 speed gear box/transmission? would that be on the snowmo.? or would i have to buy one and if i do have to....where would i?

 

[modelengineer]

My kart uses 2mm wall, except for one section near the suspension where its 3.2mm wall. It's plenty strong.

It's stronger/lighter to go with a larger diameter tube than to increase the wall thickness. Most of mine is 40x40x2.

The snowmo will have a CVT, no gears. Just a constantly variable ratio. To get a 5/6 speed you'd need a motorbike gearbox and somehow adapt it to the industrial engine...

 

[Rickracer]

What I was suggesting was to use a motorcycle engine and trans, more readily available than snowmobile motors, easier to buy parts for, easier and less complicated to set up the power train, and makes for a much faster, more versatile kart, at least IMHO.

 

[CyB3R_D3MoN]

ok so i should use 40x40x2mm pipeing? which though like square or tube? and i know that a moto motor would be faster but idk about power. what are some of the ups and downs of a snowmobile engine and a moto engine?
here is what i want this kart/buggy to do when its finished...
-be able to go ANYWHERE
-be able to pull a wheelie right off the start
-be able to tow/pull atleast 1500 lbs., i have a trailer bed thats like 6'x4' and i was going to make a hitch in the back so i can attach it and have my buddys in the bed so i can take them with me. or if i just want to haul something around.
-and alot more cool **** lol

but ya. what would be the best place to buy metal at? like the cheapest....ex: lowes, home-depot, ace hardware(its about $32 for a 1 1/4" 6' square metal bar ...but ya, can you guys help me out on which type of motor i should look for? like a motor that can handle all of that

 

[Rickracer]

For moving that much weight, you need a BIG motor, I'd say a minimum of about 750ccs, you could score a whole bike on ebay, and use a lot of the parts for your build, brakes, electronics, cables, etc, possibly even the lighting. For steel, I'd check your local welding supply stores, if they don't handle steel, they can tell you where to get it. The best stuff to use would be DOM tubing, it's not cheap, but definitely less than the hardware store pricing, and much better material too.

 

[CyB3R_D3MoN]

Thanks guys, so lets say i didnt want to haul anything but i still want enough power to pull a wheelie....how much would i need? and do you think a swing arm rear is a good idea? for off-roading? and i found this one web-site its called:

nivertsteel.com

you may need to google it though. its a steel, aluminum, etc. supply warhouse. They have everything. they are across the u.s. and they are really big. My vocational school has a machine shop and thats who they get all the metal from. just thought id point that out :] oh, but you have to call for pricing.

 

[freakboy]

If you want a really good off road kart go with dual a arms on trailing arms in the rear and double a in the front. sucks up bumps like nothing.

 

[CyB3R_D3MoN]

ya i know about doubles in front and thats what im going to do. but if i want ind. in the back what is that thing i need. it is the axle but it can go on an angle and still turn. idt its a differential but what is it?

 

[Rickracer]

Actually both as as much about gearing as they are about power. You can pull a lot of weight or pull wheelies if your gearing is low enough, but that cuts your top speed considerably. That's why a motorcycle sourced engine/trans is such an appealing idea, you have 5 or 6 choices of gear at any time,
If you use double a-arms in the rear, you will need u-jointed axles, or better yet, CV joints. You could probably get some from a quad, my Kawasaki Mule has CV axles in the rear, with a 450cc twin and a TAV style drive system.