Crankshaft Bearing Replacement

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JTSpeedDemon

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So some of you may know that I now have a bad sidecover bearing on my flathead.
It's the flange mounted ball bearing, since the next to last 3 in the engine code 132432 denotes that. Is it a slip fit or a press fit?
If it is a press fit, I know a gear puller is a good way to get it off, but how does one get it back on? Take it to a machine shop?
I am in need of sage wisdom.:surrender:
EDIT - Looks like the manual says it's indeed a press fit. It recommends an arbor press to remove it, and a heat fit to install it. I'll get in touch with my hot rodder friend to see what he can do.
 

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karl

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This might help, but yes press fit, briggs recommends a press for removal
 

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JTSpeedDemon

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Talked to my friend, and he referred me to a local automotive machine shop, so I sent an email and will eagerly await the reply. They can also bore a cylinder, so I may have them do that someday. :stir:
 

Randy H

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Have you tried a local parts store? Need a credit card but free tool loans. Or.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/14PCS-Fly-...rentrq:e588fe4616d0a4b7b6e5cc28ffebf8cb|iid:1

Stock is press fit. If your gonna be playing around, cam swaps, adjustable crank gears...
What I'm getting at is maybe you can find a way to machine the crank journal to make the bearing a slip fit.
It was a common practice. Chuck it in an engine lathe, or big azz drill press.

For installation, if you don't go the slip fit route. Freeze the crank and heat the bearing.

Just get some liquid nitrogen and an induction heater for your bearing.
Just kidding, but that is ideal.

Maybe you can source some dry ice and safely heat up some oil. DO NOT ASK YOUR MOTHER. In my experience most don't dig that action. Mine was different she was an electronics genius and boiled carburetors in her spare time.

By the way, I must say it is great fun to freeze a twizzler in liquid nitrogen and watch it shatter. Even the crankiest curmudgeon gets a kick out of it.

If worse comes to worse (cost prohibitive, whatever) I have a pile of cranks (slip fit) and would be willing to trade, you cover shipping. Just an option.
 

JTSpeedDemon

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I'll see what the machine shop says. I might have it turned down slightly to make it slip fit, or maybe if I could get access to a belt sander and use some fine grit paper to sand it down a bit.
Are you saying trade cranks? I think I'd be down for that.
At least I'm learning about this stuff on an engine that isn't my daily transportation! :eek:
 

Randy H

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Id be willing to trade.

Keep in mind, you may have a hardened crank that is desirable. What I have is a pig in a poke.
I would check measurements. I wouldn't give you junk, lol.

I would be hesitant to try to clearance it by hand. Maybe when you've fitted a few hundred bearings, and learned to do things improperly for the sake of production. Imagine 20 people ($18\hr) on an extended break cuz a machine is down.

Right on though, your learning. I have made every mistake in the book.
I've bashed flywheels, mushroomed shafts. Wrecked things with wheels, and some with legs.
Still learning. Women and legs, still kind of winging that. Money helps.
Got two sons in early thirties making six figures. So I figure I'm fairly successful.

Your on a good path, good attitude.
 

mckutzy

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Ive never heard of hot oil to heat it on... but used a growler/bearing heater to do the same...

At my old machine shop job, the boss used an old scratched electric hot plate griddle... film of oil on the plate, heat till the bearing skittles a drop of water about on the surface. Then throw it on the shaft...
Make sure everything is prepped for the bearing first....
Also get a piece of pipe that is the diameter of the inner race, in case it locks earlier than the shoulder, youll be able to seat it by hammering it down correctly.
 

Randy H

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A hot plate is a good idea to heat up some oil. I guess I wasn't clear.
Maybe try a Goodwill store.
An old incandescent bulb will work too. 150-200° is all you need.
Just no open flame.

When money is no object.
https://m.northerntool.com/shop/too...tools-clamps-safety-equipment+bearing-heaters

I don't have any dual bearing cranks, sorry. The flywheel journal might be the same size, but then you'd have two bearings to deal with.

As far as hardened cranks I'm not sure. Thought I had that info in notes someplace. I'll post in a group or two.

You might be able to tell an induction hardened journal by bluing or overheated looking areas.
 

wenee9w

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Bluing on crank arms around the rod pin. I always chuck in a drill press and emery cloth til the press fit goes away doesn't take much.
 
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