Con Rod Install Questions
- Thread starter JTSpeedDemon
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JTSpeedDemon
2019 Build Off Winner!
Dang, just realized our nice Craftsman torque wrench is 1/2" drive, and we don't have any sockets small enough.
We have a cheapo torque wrench that's an 1/8" (I believe) drive, but the minimum setting is 120 in/lbs. And it's inaccurate since we failed to reset it before.
So, I guess a trip to Horror Fright is due.
---------- Post added at 11:56 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:55 AM ----------
Ah, oops, just remembered we have a torsion bar(?) wrench. Anyway, it's the one with the meter and the bar, and I believe it's 1/4" drive, in which case it would work. Hopefully.
•MERGED•
Darn, dad's messy garage came back and bit me in the butt.
I know we have a beam torque wrench somewhere, but I absolutely can't find it.
So unless he knows where it is I'm gonna have to sink $20 into a Harbor Freight torque wrench.
Since this is the only foreseeable use of this torque wrench, it'll probably be fine, but at the same time, it's $20!
I tried calling the local auto parts store(Pep Boys), and asked if they rented out torque wrenches, but they referred me to another store that could, and then they just put me on hold for a while.
So, I guess I'll try again sometime, but if not, back to Hazard Fraught!
---------- Post added at 02:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:32 PM ----------
Also, I was reading in my Haynes manual, something about "locking plates" for the con rod. I believe it was for lawn mower engines, but just checking.
From what the manual says, it looks like a little plate inserted between the rod and the rod cap.
Obviously that's not applicable to my Raptor rod, since it's notched to only fit together one way, but it just seems kinda funny to me that there's not even locking tabs on the cap bolts. *shrug*
We have a cheapo torque wrench that's an 1/8" (I believe) drive, but the minimum setting is 120 in/lbs. And it's inaccurate since we failed to reset it before.
So, I guess a trip to Horror Fright is due.
---------- Post added at 11:56 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:55 AM ----------
Ah, oops, just remembered we have a torsion bar(?) wrench. Anyway, it's the one with the meter and the bar, and I believe it's 1/4" drive, in which case it would work. Hopefully.
•MERGED•
Darn, dad's messy garage came back and bit me in the butt.
I know we have a beam torque wrench somewhere, but I absolutely can't find it.
So unless he knows where it is I'm gonna have to sink $20 into a Harbor Freight torque wrench.
Since this is the only foreseeable use of this torque wrench, it'll probably be fine, but at the same time, it's $20!
I tried calling the local auto parts store(Pep Boys), and asked if they rented out torque wrenches, but they referred me to another store that could, and then they just put me on hold for a while.
So, I guess I'll try again sometime, but if not, back to Hazard Fraught!
---------- Post added at 02:55 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:32 PM ----------
Also, I was reading in my Haynes manual, something about "locking plates" for the con rod. I believe it was for lawn mower engines, but just checking.
From what the manual says, it looks like a little plate inserted between the rod and the rod cap.
Obviously that's not applicable to my Raptor rod, since it's notched to only fit together one way, but it just seems kinda funny to me that there's not even locking tabs on the cap bolts. *shrug*
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Kartorbust
Inmate #627
Go to HFT and buy an ICON 3/8" torque wrench. https://www.harborfreight.com/38-in-drive-professional-click-type-torque-wrench-64065.html
JTSpeedDemon
2019 Build Off Winner!
I wish I could, but I can only afford the $20 Pittsburgh one. Junk, I know, but it's basically just for two bolts.
Kartorbust
Inmate #627
It's on par with majority of the big name stuff price wise. I mean a Tekton would be cheaper, however no idea of the quality of it and Tekton are not easy to find.Dang!! That thing is $90
JTSpeedDemon
2019 Build Off Winner!
Perfect! THANK YOU!
---------- Post added at 10:36 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:14 AM ----------
By the way, how and why does one break in a torque wrench?
---------- Post added at 10:36 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:14 AM ----------
By the way, how and why does one break in a torque wrench?
Kentucky Boy
Member
You shouldn’t loosen tight bolts with a torque wrench. Use a regular wrench to loosen and use the torque wrench to tighten.
JTSpeedDemon
2019 Build Off Winner!
Ok, phew.
Dad found the deflecting beam torque wrench, and it's 3/8" drive.
*SELF MERGED*
I finally have time and all the tools/parts needed to install the rod and remove the governor, but I have a question on the gov removal.
Can I just leave the governor arm intact after removing the gov gear?
I don't want to try to make my own throttle linkage, so I'd like to utilize the exterior components. That, and I don't have a Dremel to cut the arm off.
I just want to make sure the arm won't hit anything if I leave it in.
Dad found the deflecting beam torque wrench, and it's 3/8" drive.
*SELF MERGED*
I finally have time and all the tools/parts needed to install the rod and remove the governor, but I have a question on the gov removal.
Can I just leave the governor arm intact after removing the gov gear?
I don't want to try to make my own throttle linkage, so I'd like to utilize the exterior components. That, and I don't have a Dremel to cut the arm off.
I just want to make sure the arm won't hit anything if I leave it in.
Kartorbust
Inmate #627
Leaving the arm intact and not removing it can potentially cause problems. It's best to remove it all together and thread the hole it came out of for a bolt.
JTSpeedDemon
2019 Build Off Winner!
Well I was just thinking: the carb has a throttle stop on it to keep the butterfly from going too far, and as long as the governor arm is still part of the linkage, it would still keep the gov arm inside the engine from hitting anything.
If it were to hit something, that would mean it would've either been hitting in stock form, or something went terribly wrong with the throttle plate.
Basically my plan is to remove JUST the governor gear mechanism.
In my head it all works, but I want y'all's input.
If it were to hit something, that would mean it would've either been hitting in stock form, or something went terribly wrong with the throttle plate.
Basically my plan is to remove JUST the governor gear mechanism.
In my head it all works, but I want y'all's input.
JTSpeedDemon
2019 Build Off Winner!
It's off the kart and on the workbench.......
Taking a break for family stuff, but I plan to at least do part of it today!
Taking a break for family stuff, but I plan to at least do part of it today!
JTSpeedDemon
2019 Build Off Winner!
wenee9w and Randy H,
Here's a question for you:
wenee recommended an oil clearance of 0.003 to 0.002
Unfortunately he never told me if that was in mm or inches.
What unit is it in?
I'm at the point where I'm measuring the oil clearance, and I'm not 100% sure I've gotten an accurate reading yet, but I need to know before I put it back together.
P.S - Governor is staying in until I'm positive it's got good oil clearance.
---------- Post added at 04:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:39 PM ----------
Got a much more precise measurement. Oil clearance is at least 0.0015 inches, probably more, since it rotated a bit while torquing it down. Which would smear it.
Here's a question for you:
wenee recommended an oil clearance of 0.003 to 0.002
Unfortunately he never told me if that was in mm or inches.
What unit is it in?
I'm at the point where I'm measuring the oil clearance, and I'm not 100% sure I've gotten an accurate reading yet, but I need to know before I put it back together.
P.S - Governor is staying in until I'm positive it's got good oil clearance.
---------- Post added at 04:32 PM ---------- Previous post was at 03:39 PM ----------
Got a much more precise measurement. Oil clearance is at least 0.0015 inches, probably more, since it rotated a bit while torquing it down. Which would smear it.
https://web.archive.org/web/19990430030104/http://www.arcracing.com/
Measuring rod clearance is best performed with the crank out. Rod secured in a vise.
Measuring rod clearance is best performed with the crank out. Rod secured in a vise.
JTSpeedDemon
2019 Build Off Winner!
Yeah I'll probably do that.
He said 0.0015 is about the minimum, in which case I'd think I should run heavier oil at least?
He said 0.0015 is about the minimum, in which case I'd think I should run heavier oil at least?
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