Comet clutching alignment????

Rat

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Don't get me wrong, I'm poking in good humor...

I'm the same damn way but to a lesser extent! I hate mismatched bolt heads showing for any given assembly... I dont mix hex with allens or flanged with common stock or zinc grade 8 with blackened grade 10 UNLESS it's a desperate emergency repair.
OMG and Matching wheels...even if they are different sizes they need to at least appear to be identical
 

Snaker

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Can't swear I didn't miss a post that said it, but I didn't notice a post saying the simple truth about backplates on symmetric CVT"s.................
..............that the amount of shaft length available on the driveshaft of the motor, or of the jackshaft built into the backplate, is never plenty enough for feeling confident when either the driver or the driven is turned opposite as is needed on symmetric units.
It's like being happy that the chosen shaft doesn't even reach the outside of the inverted pulley, much less have any extra length. Folks who are all OCD like myself just can't deal with that, I want every possible shaft/pulley contact space utilized, regardless of the 1/4" piece of keystock or anything else. If the shaft doesn't reach the end, my OCD self won't use it.
P85 CVT.png

Having the shaft end inside the pulley isn't necessarily the end of the world.
Of course, things have to fit properly.
Here's a page from the service manual covering the Polaris P85 CVT that was used for many years.

Notice the middle photo with the large A reference.
The sheave with the bowl shape closest to the hand is the fixed sheave.
In the hand is a bolt w/flat washer to thread into the shaft end and secure the pulley.
Pinched by the thumb is a thick spacer slug that the bolt goes through and bumps up against the shaft end.
It's an inch or so long.

Of course, that design is different than this design.
 

madprofessor

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Excellent reference on item #4, the part about P-85 and P-90 clutches floating 1-2 mm to prevent side-loading. However.............
It only explains to me why I've seen folks here recommending not securing their drivers and/or drivens to their respective shafts. Never knew why people talked about that, good to see where it actually belongs in a mechanical application. Doesn't apply here in the discussion of these lower-hp. motors, likely why it always confused me to read about folks doing that.
The free-floating application sounds good on paper, but doesn't sound even a little bit likely for a 6.5 - 13hp. motor setup, and none of the folks I've read here have complained about oblong wearing out of crankshaft bearings. I don't consider it a reliable method of correcting the constantly shifting alignment of symmetric pulleys mounted with their movable sheaves on the same side.
The infinite possibilities of gear ratio changes provided by having a completely separate jackshaft for the driven pulley with a secondary chain is valuable enough for me to never back away from my insistence on reversing the driven to keep the belt in alignment. 4 sprockets to play with makes for some real changes, both large and small. I last built a 5:1, and a separate jackshaft let it end up 9:1 without changing the axle sprocket further than 60 to 72.
 

danssoslow

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Sorry for reviving an old post; but I bought me of one those OMB plates to mount a 40 series on my engine, and was disappointed with the news that TC wouldn’t work as intended.
BUT!!! I think I found a solution!
 

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danssoslow

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I have to do some clearance for the oil return block; but it appears it’s gonna work out fine. I used 40mm long M10 couplings for the spacers.
 

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panchothedog

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Nice looking work. What brand of Vs twin is that? Is it the predator, or something else?
 
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