Rat
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With that orientation the pulleys will not be near perfectly aligned.Personally I'd just get a different shaft so that the sprocket is behind the backing plate, and the pulleys become near perfectly aligned by that default, it would most likely require some minor shimming to the driven, easier to shim by a few 16th's than reconfigure the entire assembly
I have never seen any setup description from Comet referring to a backplate on the symmetrical systems.The illustrated diagrams from Comet show the driven mounted inboard. Maybe the back plate (in this situation) should be eliminated. I thought the driven on 20 and 40 Series torque converters always mounted inboard. Not familiar with either so I could be way off there.
That's all horse$hit because the rear sheaves of both the driver and driven are fixed... only the outer move. The driver moves inboard lifting the belt, and the belt forces the driven outboard to compensate...there is no latteral movement of the belt at allWith that orientation the pulleys will not be near perfectly aligned.
During upshift the belt will be moving inboard at the front while its moving outboard at the rear.
During downshift it will be the opposite.
Some people claim that the driven pulley will "float" laterally to follow the drive pulley.
There may be some amount of that but I believe it would be minimal.
The pulley, under tension, will resist being moved with that kind of leverage and will for sure lag in alignment, if it moves at all.
In the snowmobile world, some claimed that allowing more than spec'd slack of the driven pulley mounting would let it float a small amount, keeping better alignment and saving belts.
That was to correct for the engine twisting on the mounts and even the success of that very small amount was debatable.
He is right RLS. On a normal 40 setup which was designed for Manco the secondary is supposed to face inboard. Or misalignment occurs.That's all horse$hit because the rear sheaves of both the driver and driven are fixed... only the outer move. The driver moves inboard lifting the belt, and the belt forces the driven outboard to compensate...there is no latteral movement of the belt at all
That's all horse$hit because the rear sheaves of both the driver and driven are fixed... only the outer move. The driver moves inboard lifting the belt, and the belt forces the driven outboard to compensate...there is no latteral movement of the belt at all
No! That is the exact wrong thing to do!just shim out the primary clutch until the belt is parallel to the sheaves. my 40 series kit came with washers to space out the primary. might need a longer bolt, but its no big deal. dont try to reinvent the wheel here, just shim it out with washers!
that is a comet 44c clutch and it can not be simply turned around. it has a flat end with the hole just big enough for the bolt to go through. if the belt is parallel to the sheaves, it will be fine. that is how mine is setup and works with zero issue. the chain is between the secondary and the backing plate just as the op's is. might not be the 'ideal' alignment, but the belt is perfectly happy as is.No! That is the exact wrong thing to do!
We told him how to fix it correctly already.
no issue with my 44c and 420 predator powered go kart. the 44c works way better and more reliably than the 40 series for me. the 40 series always throws the weights out of the track. i also got more top speed from the 44c vs the 40 series.If he puts a regular old 40 driver on there and sends back that useless 44 he will be golden. Just wait until he melts the pucks from heat. Then you just throw it all away. Joe 405 on here did that years ago with his drag mini bike. Melted them on his first or second pass I believe.
Run time and user experience is pretty much the ultimate proof.that is a comet 44c clutch and it can not be simply turned around. it has a flat end with the hole just big enough for the bolt to go through. if the belt is parallel to the sheaves, it will be fine. that is how mine is setup and works with zero issue. the chain is between the secondary and the backing plate just as the op's is. might not be the 'ideal' alignment, but the belt is perfectly happy as is.
Those springs are available and along with the switching to the other ramps, will allow the driven to spin in either direction.The most important or one of the most important parts of this video start at 6:50. The driven spring needs to be a reverse spring if running the driven outboard. Dirty Dan will or should be okay with the backplate as long as the correct spring is installed in the driven.
There's medication and therapy for that... jsCan't swear I didn't miss a post that said it, but I didn't notice a post saying the simple truth about backplates on symmetric CVT"s.................
..............that the amount of shaft length available on the driveshaft of the motor, or of the jackshaft built into the backplate, is never plenty enough for feeling confident when either the driver or the driven is turned opposite as is needed on symmetric units.
It's like being happy that the chosen shaft doesn't even reach the outside of the inverted pulley, much less have any extra length. Folks who are all OCD like myself just can't deal with that, I want every possible shaft/pulley contact space utilized, regardless of the 1/4" piece of keystock or anything else. If the shaft doesn't reach the end, my OCD self won't use it.