Comet 30 Series/predator drive shaft questions...

[The Noose]

I'm sure you guys are sick of these questions but I've read through what I can find on here and watched several youtube videos and I don't think I am understanding what I need to do. Hoping you guys can clarify this issue for me:

I have a yerf dog 3202 that uses the 30 series torque converter. I am swapping the stock Tecumseh engine out for a predator 212.

It seems that the drive shaft on the predator engine is shorter than the Tecumseh's. The splined hub on the driven unit just barely goes onto the drive shaft on the predator.

Is this not a problem? Ive read about people doing something to the spacer to fix this problem, but then It seems like a lot of people don't even really think twice about it and run it as is.

What's the deal? Do I need to modify something to make the 30 series torque converter work with the predator engine? Will it be fine as is?

 

[kevbo22]

I dont see why it wouldn't work. I have used a 30 series on two of my predator 212's now. Only thing is that you mention it is splined. Is it actually splined or just a keyway?

 

[The Noose]

I'm referring to part #1015 on this picture. I'm not really sure what it's called. I thought I heard it called a "splined hub" somewhere. I'm pretty new at this so I still don't know what the different parts are called.

 

[KartFab]

I had the same issue. I would remove any spacer that fits behind the drive unit backplate. Even though the shaft is shorter, it will work just fine. The important part is that you torque down the bolt onto the engines output shaft so it wont vibrate loose. Blue threadlocker is a good idea.

The drive unit will now be closer to the engine, throwing the driven unit out of alignment. Remove the driven unit sprocket and run it on the outside of the driven unit. There should be enough spacers on the driven unit to fine tune the alignment.

If I remember correctly I had to move the axle sprocket around, and pulled off the plastic axle cover to make it work.

 

[The Noose]

I had the same issue. I would remove any spacer that fits behind the drive unit backplate. Even though the shaft is shorter, it will work just fine. The important part is that you torque down the bolt onto the engines output shaft so it wont vibrate loose. Blue threadlocker is a good idea.

The drive unit will now be closer to the engine, throwing the driven unit out of alignment. Remove the driven unit sprocket and run it on the outside of the driven unit. There should be enough spacers on the driven unit to fine tune the alignment.

If I remember correctly I had to move the axle sprocket around, and pulled off the plastic axle cover to make it work.

Dang. I was really hoping I wouldn't have to move the sprocket. There hasn't been a single part on this kart that hasn't been so seized up with rust that it took a week to budge. I have a feeling the sprocket itself will be no exception.

I saw a youtube video where a guy did exactly what you are talking about doing, so I bet that will serve as a good reference point should I have any issues.

Thanks for the help. (in this thread and just about everywhere else on here).