Clutch problems!!!!

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chuggins08

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I recently bought a go kart with a 11hp honda clone motor. The clutch was bad so I decided to buy another one off the internet. I put it on and when i go to accelerate the kart doesnt move. I can be pushed by someone and it will pick up some speed and go right back to not moving. Is this a clutch problem? Gearing?
 

OzFab

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Does the engine sound like it's "working" (bogs down) or just free revving?

Throw up some numbers (axle & clutch sprocket tooth counts, tyre height, size/type of kart) & we'll see what we can work out...

Some pics would be nice too...
 

chuggins08

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engine sounds like its running normal. ill take pics and measurements tomorrow after work. i know the clutch sprocket is 10 tooth.
 

chuggins08

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Finally caught a break from the rain.
 

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Doc Sprocket

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Agreed! 6:1, (10T clutch, 60T axle) is a pretty good ratio for your average fun kart, not at all for what you have- a large, heavy 2-seater with big rear tires. I'm guessing your rear tires are in the 16-18" range.

There's a really good chance that your machine left the factory with either a CVT, or a bike-style engine. With a CVT-equipped machine, it is very frequent for the neglected CVT to fail, and the uninformed owner to replace it with a basic clutch because it's cheaper. However, they do not take gearing into consideration. A machine geared for a CVT will be quite useless with a clutch.

Do not just go out and buy another clutch, you will cook that one, too. You have two feasible options-

1)CVT. With an 11hp engine, your best choice would be a Comet 40.
2)Lower gearing- likely through the use of a jackshaft.
 

Doc Sprocket

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Compound gearing through a jackshaft. If you could get your overall redux ratio down around 8:1 or so, you'd probably be okay.

Basically, you'd need a short length of 5/8" or 3/4" keyed shaft, 2 bearings and hangars, two finished bore sprockets or sprockets and hubs, and some more chain. As an example- your 10T clutch going to a 20T on the input side of the jackshaft. On the output side of the shaft, you could have a 15T going to your 60T axle. This combination would result in an 8:1 ratio.

Be aware that top speed will be reduced accordingly. Then again, you've no top speed now.

The better solution is the CVT, but it's likely to cost you somewhere between $200-$400 from start to finish.
 

landuse

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No it would not work. It is a rip off of the comet TAV20. The genuine version is only rated up to 8HP. The knock off is advertised as being able to handle up to 13HP, but DO NOT BELIEVE IT. You will just be burning up belts at a rapid pace.

You are going to NEED a comet 40 series with the engine you have. There is no getting around it if you want a TC
 

chuggins08

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So I am looking at buying comet 40 series driver and driven clutches off ebay, but the guy does not include the piece that bolts to the engine, nor the belt. So what I have a problem with is finding instructions on how to install the system and where I can buy the parts that the guy on ebay is not providing.
 

Doc Sprocket

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There is no piece that bolts to the engine. The 40 series is not a self contained unit. The drive unit goes on the engine's PTO shaft. The driven gets mounted on a jackshaft that you must purchase or make. The belt size is specific to how far you mount the units apart. There is not one belt size for the 40, there are several. That is why a belt is not included.

Here's a pic of my 40- note how nothing is bolted to the engine block, and nothing but the belt connects the 2 units.

Read this.
 

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mckutzy

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In the above pic, there is 2 pillow blocks, a shaft that fits the driven(?) end, a sprocket that is the right count w/ the right dia hub to fit the shaft. I reckon it will have to be mounted in an exact position to achieve the right performance (Shaft center to center).
 
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