Well on a bright note: the content was found..
and put back in place (timestamp's now off.. but at least it's in the correct order in the thread)
If you feel like you need to leave because of this mishap, I'm sorry.
If you feel like you need to leave because I told you to stop double posting,
I'm much less sorry; still mildy-sorry-esque but not nearly enough to stop reminding you of the edit-buton!
And now onto the reply to your above 'on topic' post shall we
Yes this clutch came with 2 set screws. If those are clamped down on the shaft and keylock how does it get its play? And is the shaft bolt necessary when there is set screws?
No need for play..
and with the set screws tightend down, no need for a crank shaft bolt either.
the set screws work perfectly fine on their own
The frame? Yes, unfortunately the old motor was no good and that was what my grandfather welded the roll cage around. I am very much hoping to avoid having to cut it off.
I doubt there's a need for cutting anything.. it's just a tight fit,
and if you could add some mesh so that nothing can catch inbetween the frame and the clutch, I am sure it'll be fine
it's not like the engine is going to move around much, is it
(just make sure no clothes or hair or sticks and debris can catch inbetween the clutch and the chassis to be safe)
I want to make sure I understand fully what you are explaining as this is all new to me:
1. Put a spacer between the clutch and the shaft shoulder (engine side)
2. Shaft bolt, larger washer, tight into the shaft to keep clutch from coming off the end of the shaft.
correct spacer between shaft shoulder and clutch and lock the clutch position with the crank shaft bolt (and of course a matching washer)
BUT:
It does have set screws. Are clutches with set screws supposed to not have a little side-to-side wiggle room? I read differing things on this. Some say it is supposed to have some movement on the shaft but if you are licking it down with set screws won't that prevent it?
you have set screws, so there's no need for any spacer or even the crank shaft bolt.
as mentioned above, they alone will keep the clutch in place just fine and lock it's position.
The clutch sprocket usually is meant to have a tiny bit of play (that much is correct)
BUT that play is all in the clutch bell when it leaves the factory.. the clutch base plate should NOT have any play at all,
hence locking it with the set screws of tightening it with a set of spacers and the crank shaft bolt.
In regards to the sprocket. You are seeing things my eye isn't trained to pick up at all. Comparing the clutch teeth to axle teeth, are the axle teeth worn in comparison? They do appear to be smaller and less robust. I do have a new chain on the desk along with the old one I am attempting to keep salvaged. I am going to look further into this. Any additional advice you can give on purchasing a new one? I would most likely count all the teeth, measure the size and buy something that is the same.
yeah the teeth on the axle sprocket already have that typical shark fin shape a worn out sprocket tooth has
means there's too much play for the chain rollers and thus at the very least a very noisy chain..
at worst a prematurely wearing chain that in turn wears on the clutch sprocket.
IDK what sprocket mounting pattern your kart has I'm afraid.
I would assume it's a simple four hole.. but IDK,
just count the teeth and measure the bolt hole pattern and center bore.
with that I'm sure you can find a replacement sprocket on any and all gokart shops
(BMI, GoPowerSports, GoKartSupply, MFGSupply and so on and so forth)
if you're having troubles finding a replacemnt, just tell us what boltholepattern you got
and we can use some hive mind's eye to find you one
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