Clark Cyclopes 440 revival

[Rusty wrench]

Hey everyone .. picked up this Clark Cyclone 440 Frankenstein to start a rebuild with my young boys. Needs work but the plan is prob to make a new pan, strip the frame, cut off random pieces added on, and fix the front geometry. If anyone has the front axle dimensions and caster/camber angles that would be amazing. I’m missing a brake pedal as of now if someone has a set laying around. I’ll post updates as we move along.

 

[Hellion]

If anyone has the front axle dimensions and caster/camber angles

Looks like it just needs some massive toe-in to fix it. Egad, those fat racing kart tires and rims should go (because I’m a purist).

 

[Hellion]

Clark Mfg. Co.

Some Clark brochures, info and photos for ID and elucidation purposes. . . . A wonderful first-person history written by a lad (@retroracer) that grew up in and around the Clark Mfg. Co. I grew up in Clark Mfg Co. I just randomly came across this thread and was surprised to...

www.diygokarts.com

Your orignal left pedal is missing/does not match the right. I think these are the closest to the original Clark branded pedals. They might even say “Clark” on them:

Throttle/ Brake Pedal from Kartco Go Karts | 400267

www.bmikarts.com

Try sandblasting the frame first, or wire wheeling it. It might be okay because it looks like surface rust, mostly.

 

[Rusty wrench]

Clark Mfg. Co.

Some Clark brochures, info and photos for ID and elucidation purposes. . . . A wonderful first-person history written by a lad (@retroracer) that grew up in and around the Clark Mfg. Co. I grew up in Clark Mfg Co. I just randomly came across this thread and was surprised to...

www.diygokarts.com

Your orignal left pedal is missing/does not match the right. I think these are the closest to the original Clark branded pedals. They might even say “Clark” on them:

Throttle/ Brake Pedal from Kartco Go Karts | 400267

www.bmikarts.com

Try sandblasting the frame first, or wire wheeling it. It might be okay because it looks like surface rust, mostly.

Sandblasting and powder coating will happen for sure once the frame is straightened back up

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Keep an eye on that weld where the front axle meets the frame. The slight rearward bend make a torsion force instead of just a vertical force on that joint.
Both of my dingos have suffered this and have been rewelded many times.
I added this rear bar to help spread that force and has held up great and I haven't had to repair it anymore.



I would also look into some engine risers. That chain wrap on that little sprocket looks a few teeth not enough IMO.
Some square tubing and a few holes is a good method.

I could be wrong but I think the camber/caster is zero on karts.
A few degrees of caster won't hurt but too much will cause the tire to lift the kart. Makes it hard to steer when your lifting the karts weight.
Just make sure its symmetrical in all directions and you'll be fine.

 

[panchothedog]

Looking at your pictures, it looks like a common predator 212cc engine. Looking closer,
I see a sticker that says 49cc. I didn't know they manufactured an engine that small.
Is that just a bogus sticker ?

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Looking at your pictures, it looks like a common predator 212cc engine. Looking closer,
I see a sticker that says 49cc. I didn't know they manufactured an engine that small.
Is that just a bogus sticker ?

Now i dont need a license. Its under 50cc.

 

[panchothedog]

Had always thought that the 79cc was the smallest. Is a 49cc engine with a centrifugal clutch even going to move his kart? What is the horsepower rating on that. It can't be putting out much torque with that small of displacement.

 

[Rusty wrench]

Keep an eye on that weld where the front axle meets the frame. The slight rearward bend make a torsion force instead of just a vertical force on that joint.
Both of my dingos have suffered this and have been rewelded many times.
I added this rear bar to help spread that force and has held up great and I haven't had to repair it anymore.

View attachment 162715

I would also look into some engine risers. That chain wrap on that little sprocket looks a few teeth not enough IMO.
Some square tubing and a few holes is a good method.

I could be wrong but I think the camber/caster is zero on karts.
A few degrees of caster won't hurt but too much will cause the tire to lift the kart. Makes it hard to steer when your lifting the karts weight.
Just make sure it’s symmetrical in

Looking at your pictures, it looks like a common predator 212cc engine. Looking closer,
I see a sticker that says 49cc. I didn't know they manufactured an engine that small.
Is that just a bogus sticker ?

Ya just a bogus sticker … that would be one beefy 49cc motor if not

 

[Hellion]

Ya just a bogus sticker … that would be one beefy 49cc motor if not

Too bad you added the fun sticker before clocking your recoil starter to 10 o’clock. I try to have it rearwards where all the other knobs are (fuel switch, choke). No biggie

 

[Deuce]

I have a live axle USA Industries kart from the early 2000s. By then it seemed they had started to think about camber and caster. It has a noticeable amount of positive caster (top of spindles tilted to back of kart), I'd say 1-3 degrees. Likewise for camber. 1-3 degrees positive (top of tire tilted inward). I can take a pic if it would help, but that's pretty much the setup. I use a pretty neutral toe with this. Maybe a fraction of a degree in. With this setup, it drives pretty well on pavement without much shimmy, despite being a trail kart with big knobbys. That said I don't disagree with others that everything neutral is the old tried and true. My Manco kart is set totally neutral and steers great.