Thepartsguy
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Why do you say not a good idea to use the backing plate jack shaft. I have 3 of them in big heavy 2 seat karts running heavily modified 212 and 224 predator engines. They work fine. I think your advice to Squiddy is wrong. There are thousands of karts out there successfully using the plate system and it's jack shaft. He needs help to get his kart running. Not obstacles. The kit you show in post #61 is a killer deal and exactly what he needs. Buy it and use it as designed.They are about $55 shipped to my door in PA in three days.
The jackshaft in the backing plate has one threaded end and one end held in by a snap ring. Not a good idea to use the backing plate jackshaft.
Return and get your money back. GET US PICTURES OF EVERYTHING.
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Why do you say not a good idea to use the backing plate jack shaft. I have 3 of them in big heavy 2 seat karts running heavily modified 212 and 224 predator engines. They work fine. I think your advice to Squiddy is wrong. There are thousands of karts out there successfully using the plate system and it's jack shaft. He needs help to get his kart running. Not obstacles. The kit you show in post #61 is a killer deal and exactly what he needs. Buy it and use it as designed.
I worded it wrong. IF he had a FULL 30 series cvt with pulleys the backing plate he shouldn’t remove the two 5/8 bearings and 5/8 jackshaft from the 30 series backplate and install it into this style engine mount jackshaft plate. He should buy a jackshaft threaded on both ends.Didn't the Amazon CVT you bought come with a plate. The plate that bolts to the engine. It has a perfectly good 5/8" jack shaft in it that fits the driven clutch. Use it and eliminate the 3/4" shaft that's on your kart.

That’s a picture of my kart to show what type of jackshaft I think he might have.Is that a picture of one of your karts or his? I never saw any picture posted by him. Maybe he should just buy a driven with a 3/4" bore. Not popular, but they're available from some shops. Reading posts #33 where he ask if the washer should be rubber or metal, leads me to believe that he does not have a lot of mechanical experience. The bigger bore driver ( regardless of cost ) would probably be the easiest solution.
It is a Murray explorer, it does have a live axle, I don’t know about a welded sprocket. To be honest, I already talked it over with my dad and brought the GPS one. It comes with a belt and the 3/4” driven. The prices almost equal out from Amazon. It would probably be a slight bit less if I do it the other way but not very much like at all.That’s a picture of my kart to show what type of jackshaft I think he might have.
Never seen a 3/4 driven and there is a lot of variables to look into before he can even install a 30 series.
If it’s some ”off-road 7hp gokart” as he stated I’m left to assume it’s a live axle with the sprocket hub welded to the live axle to match up to an outboard mounted clutch. OP should verify this with us before he even buys anything at all.
It’s a Subaru.I just noticed the valve cover on his engine from post #13. OHC, aka Overhead Cam. Is that legit or just a Chinese typo?
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OHC engines are a cut above pushrod engines, at least in the cool factor. Show us more of this engine and the brand identifying factors.

No I knew what it is, I want to upgrade!No wonder the CVT 30 series won’t fit! That’s NOT a CVT on there. That is a centrifugal clutch and pulley system. Send your junk back and get a back plate system or repair what you have. Pictures earlier could have saved you and us so much trouble!!!!
OHV it should read. I’m surprised Fuji/Subaru got it wrong.
Listen that sounds nice, but I was really excited to get cracking and ordered the CVT for jackshaft like 2 days ago. Between shipping and price of a kit with plate I would only save like 20 bucks and this option is easier/more stock.I'm gonna vote for the solution proposed be @Thepartsguy.
If you show a picture of the sprocket on your axle, we can tell you if it is welded or if you can move it over to the left.
If you can move the sprocket, then a plate CVT system might be the best option. Then, you would need to remove the original jackshaft and possibly, the mount.
Ummmmm… How much is pretty cheap? Edit: for a rare 3/4” jackshaft. I mean a CVT is the stock option… I already blew so much money ~$125 on a $50 upgrade…I hope your jackshaft is long enough. If not, a longer shaft is pretty cheap. Good luck.
You’re going to have to measure out and buy a custom length comet belt.Listen that sounds nice, but I was really excited to get cracking and ordered the CVT for jackshaft like 2 days ago. Between shipping and price of a kit with plate I would only save like 20 bucks and this option is easier/more stock.