Chain tension varies

[Oxymoron]

Don't mean to go too far of topic, but is that a problem at BMI? I mean, quality issues? I have only ordered from there once, but if their quality is inconsistent, I'll probably avoid them in the future.

I got a mechanical brake caliper and pads. They seem fine. The other stuff I've gotten, I've ordered from AGK, and OMB warehouse.

 

[OzFab]

I haven't used them myself, the only time I contemplated ordering from them, the postage was almost twice the price of the order...

There's been a few bad stories; one member ordered & paid for a new Comet TAV2, they sent him bits of a used clone then wouldn't respond to his communication...

 

[Oxymoron]

Hmm... that doesn't sound good. I'll probably think twice before ordering from there again now.

 

[Poboy kartman]

IDK- I've only ordered once from them and they screwed up that order but they made it right for free, so.....

One thing I can tell you is that they have a phone # to order parts from and a different phone# on the receipt. If you have a problem- call the one to order parts from, I don't think they answer the other one!

 

[chancer]

Well as it turns out in the end the clutch was bad. Now that I have taken it off and looked at it I believe it was the problem originally. not the sprocket, hub or axle. I would post a pic but it is so small I doubt it would do any good. Soooo The center part of the clutch with the built in key and set screw is cocked or crooked where it seats against the back plate of the clutch. ( the part with the three tabs that hold the clutch plates. Also it spins freely from that part. So the clutches never actually spin and engage the drum. Furthermore this being crooked is what caused the original problem with the variable chain tension.

As far as BMI: "GREAT prices Bad customer service"
I am a cheap skate (hence DIY) and BMI absolutely has the best prices. I bought the cheapest clutch they had you get what you pay for. But even on name brand parts Hilliard clutches for example 4 bucks less than MFG. My rear axle 22bucks, Bearing kit with hangers $18 it was $34 at MFG. They ARE really watching their own a$$ as far as me trying to return the bad clutch. 20 questions about the kart weight gear ratio, tires, engine HP etc. They barely answer the phone and their email won't accept the video of the bad clutch. Since Monday I have been trying to get return authorization and they would NOT help me out on the shipping of the more expensive Hilliard extreme duty clutch I ordered to replace this one. The kart is 100% ready to go now for 6 days waiting on a clutch, Imagine my kids after they watched this being built for 5 weeks and now see it painted and on the ground but no vroom vroom.

 

[Oxymoron]

Weird

 

[landuse]

If you want to post the vid here, just post the link to the YouTube vid

 

[Poboy kartman]

I actually thought about the clutch or a bent shaft on the motor and was one of the reasons I said checking the run-out on the rear sprocket could eliminate it as the source of the problem.

 

[chancer]

Here are the links to the bad clutch videos. I Am a noob but this doesn't seem right. Right?






http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UtmuYu5-OyM





https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hjh71cl5qHM

 

[OzFab]

Uh yeah, it shouldn't do that...

 

[itsid]

I'd go and tell hoffcocomet.com about the clutch and about bmis behaviour.
Just to let them know; most likely they will take care of that.

If not, get a maxtorque and call it a lesson

'sid

 

[chancer]

I have contacted Diane at comet. She was very nice and asked me to forward the email and Vid to the PRESIDENT of Comet. I am a little too nice and still want to give BMI 1 last chance to fix this, after all this has been a short holiday week here. So I have not done that yet. But I do feel like I am getting the point across here, and we are the people most likely to buy parts. I will keep this updated and let everyone know the outcome. I do not think I will be buying anything more from BMI.

 

[OzFab]

Although I tend to agree with you about giving BMI a chance to sort the situation, I also feel that the powers that be at Comet need to know about the situation, after all, situations like this give Comet a bad name too &, as I mentioned previously, this is not the first time there's been a problem with BMI regarding a Comet part...

 

[chancer]

Well I got the new Hilliard Extreme Duty clutch today. What a nice little piece of engineering for 38 bucks. The sprockets are easily changeable or replaceable and so is the bronze oil lite bearing. You can buy different springs to adjust engagement rpms and all.
Best of all this one works! Finally got to take the kart out and test it, and let my little kids drive it. Boy is 6 girl is 7, They are still smiling, this is real step up from their RAZOR dune buggy carts. Everything worked well except once the main jet got clogged, this motor sat for 4 years and even after a good cleaning something got through. But all is well.
As for Comet and BMI: I want my money back before I Pi$$ in there Wheaties. I now have contacts at Comet, a video on Utube, and all of you. I don't want to have to threaten them, but I do have them by the b&ll$ if they do not fix the situation. Bad publicity travels ten times faster than good any day.

 

[Kelly Wood]

Looking at your videos, even with the inner hub of the clutch detached from the other inner section, there's no way the clutch had anything to do with the chain tension variations. It's too small and not really spinning on a shaft (the engine) that would throw it that far off. I think you answered it yourself when you switched the sprocket the other way... plain & simple, the sprocket, or hub in the rear... and that 1/16 of variation in the axle... was off a bit... causing a good bit of tension.

With that in mind...

I'm being harsh here, and I apologize, I'm not pointing fingers... and I sometimes come off a bit negative... but with a huge variation caused by the off center sprocket hub on the axle (or the bent axle) could have gotten the chain so tight, and easily trashed the inner mechanism on a cheap clutch, causing the separation in the first place. Did you hear a really noticeable pop or big "click" when you ran it like that? (I'm assuming you ran it) Was it separated like that when you got it? I see a clear spot there where it's been spun at the separation point in the video you showed, a lot.

I didn't see if it was a split sprocket so I can't help there... but... in the end... for clutch advice, I'd offer this:

Buy a noram GE and be done with it. It'll last you years. We race (not that I'm cool or anything) but the clutch my daughter uses is on it's 3rd year... untouched... and there's no bushing to wear out.. it's a roller bearing that just doesn't seem to wear out. They're a little more than the Hillard, but... well, It's just a suggestion. If not, go with the MaxTorque.

Defending BMI: I've ordered from them tons and have yet to find an issue. That being said, I'm sure it's possible they sold something that was bad... happens all the time.

Kelly "Kartrods" Wood

 

[OzFab]

with a huge variation caused by the off center sprocket hub on the axle (or the bent axle) could have gotten the chain so tight, and easily trashed the inner mechanism on a cheap clutch, causing the separation in the first place. Did you hear a really noticeable pop or big "click" when you ran it like that? (I'm assuming you ran it) Was it separated like that when you got it?

Fair point Kelly but, I'm not sure how much of this thread you read so, just in case you missed it, the hub, sprocket & axle all came from BMI so, if they want to pull that card, they still have no comeback because it was their products that caused the problem...

 

[Kelly Wood]

Fair enough. My apologies for that. I was a bit off last night. If I've offended, please forgive me. I get a little harsh at times.

Kelly

 

[OzFab]

No offence taken, that's what forums are all about; opinions are like noses, everyone has one & they're all different &, in my experience, an opposed opinion can sometimes be an eye opener...

You did have a good point but, in this case, there were other points to take into consideration...

No harm, no foul, don't beat yourself up over it

 

[chancer]

Kelly I think you are right on. I am not 100% sure why things were so far off in the first place. I took it all apart put it all back together 180* opposite and the chain tension became normal. We never actually ran the clutch with the odd alignments. I only tried the clutch after everything was aligned correctly and it was dead on arrival. like you saw in the vid it was spinning on itself. Like you said it was a cheap clutch to begin with. Again lesson learned you get what you pay for. You did not offend me and I too have that problem of sounding harsh. "Typing" a thought is just that way, there is no eye contact or voice inflection. I am glad to here BMI may be credible though. Some folks here have had issues in the past and some had good luck.

 

[Kelly Wood]

Ok, thanks.

In my goofy experience, and racing experience, when putting an axle on:
1. Bearings & hangers in place, not tight.
2. Slide axle in, or hang it that way, loose.
3. Spin axle, make sure it's straight, should slide freely side to side.
4. Leave sprocket carrier & brake disc loose, do them later.
5. Slowly tighten bearing hangers making sure axle still spins freely... if not, tap axle back & forth as you tighten, keeps the bearings aligned. If they're off, or you set the set screws first, the axle will bind and not spin well at all. The axle can go a bit off because of the tight pinch caused by the set screws. Think about it, tighten the set screws before the axle bearings are in place... and something will give. It could be the frame, it could be the axle. but it could be enough to cause an issue.
6. Once spinning freely in the tightened bearings, Lightly tighten set screws on bearings to axle, or do what I do... put collars on it & leave the bearing set screws out of the picture... it lets the axle "float" a slight bit and retains free movement.
7. Once tight and spinning freely, Floor it!

Kelly