Looking for reputable sources to purchase a Carb replacement for an older B&H 5HP. Engine came on the go kart I recently put a predator on. I’ve seen it run before but its been awhile. Engine turns over, but won’t crank. Trying to get this one running now while I look for another frame.
Carb replacement for older B&H 5HP
- Thread starter Clark125
- Start date
mckutzy
Well-known member
Post a pic of what you have....
Sounds like an old pulse jet carb that you are looking for. Try ebay or amazon
anickode
Active member
Let's see a pic!
Is the fuel tank directly under the carb?
Have you verified spark? Depending on how old your older engine is, it may have a breaker point ignition, which is far more likely to need attention after sitting a long time. Usually a good cleaning and a new diaphragm is all it takes to bring a pulsa-jet carb back to life.
Is the fuel tank directly under the carb?
Have you verified spark? Depending on how old your older engine is, it may have a breaker point ignition, which is far more likely to need attention after sitting a long time. Usually a good cleaning and a new diaphragm is all it takes to bring a pulsa-jet carb back to life.
Here’s a couple pictures...I should point out that Ive had less than zero luck fixing any card related issues in the past whether on cars, small engines etc. ��
Attachments
-
FAEB0E0C-D31B-4FF7-B921-B23863F50C5F.jpg -
305FA3B3-DF95-43CE-B860-19CC917978B0.jpg -
C36C6237-DAD6-4371-A0D2-C3050D34F602.jpg
Karts of Kaos
the many mowers guy
you can get a carb for 20$ on amazon just say carb for Briggs model number
anickode
Active member
That's not THAT old of a Briggs. It would have a magnetron ignition, not points.
Still need to verify spark though.
The only thing tossing a new carb on it can hurt is your wallet. Make sure you get a new tank to carb gasket. They're notorious for leaking after separating them.
Still need to verify spark though.
The only thing tossing a new carb on it can hurt is your wallet. Make sure you get a new tank to carb gasket. They're notorious for leaking after separating them.
Where would Infind the model number?
---------- Post added at 02:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:10 PM ----------
Haha yeah its probably not that old.
What’s the best way to check for spark?mckutzy
Well-known member
The numbers are stamped on the side of the blower housing....
anickode
Active member
Where would Infind the model number?
---------- Post added at 02:11 PM ---------- Previous post was at 02:10 PM ----------
Haha yeah its probably not that old.
The BEST way would be to use a spark tester. It plugs inline between the plug wire and the spark plug and you can see if you're getting spark.
The way everybody ACTUALLY does it is to unscrew the spark plug, put the plug wire back on, and hold the body of the plug against one of the head bolts.
Then with the other hand, pull the rope. and make sure you're holding it by the rubber plug boot.The BEST way would be to use a spark tester. It plugs inline between the plug wire and the spark plug and you can see if you're getting spark.
The way everybody ACTUALLY does it is to unscrew the spark plug, put the plug wire back on, and hold the body of the plug against one of the head bolts.
So definitely has spark. That being said, I can still feel the spark through the wire whether that’s normal or not Im not sure. So I guess I can rule out spark being the issue.
anickode
Active member
That's pretty normal when the plug wire insulation is dry rotted. It's not right, but it's normal.
Pulled the air cleaner off to try and start with starting fluid. It did run for like half a second and died.
Couple things I noticed:
1. Looking at the on/off lever, I do not see it connected to anything at all on the carb. Something prior owner must've done.
2. There’s a small lever with two holes where what looks like probably one half of the kill switch wire is connected too, and theres nothing on those two holes.
3. There’s nothing connected to the throttle plate except a giant spring that goes to a bolt.
Couple things I noticed:
1. Looking at the on/off lever, I do not see it connected to anything at all on the carb. Something prior owner must've done.
2. There’s a small lever with two holes where what looks like probably one half of the kill switch wire is connected too, and theres nothing on those two holes.
3. There’s nothing connected to the throttle plate except a giant spring that goes to a bolt.
Attachments
-
75C4B9AA-7C02-44B6-8154-BDD213934DCD.jpg -
4C9DBA3F-119E-4693-95F5-976EF853FA37.jpg -
B6FB556B-CBC9-495A-82A2-F1D2F9BF5938.jpg
Correct me if Im wrong but it looks like throttle cable sheathing should be connected to the bolt, then the cable itself connected to the lever. Assuming that seems correct the run/stop lever would not be connected at all. This is course doesn’t solve the carb issue.
Attachments
-
A57DA851-5947-4044-ABB7-E106307F7A98.jpg
Wouldnt I need something to keep the on/off lever engaged? I’m curious now if its not an issue with the linkage and throttle not being hooked up correctly. If the run/stop lever is not connected at all, what could I do to keep that on while running?
Quick update for anyone that stumbles onto this thread:
Found the replacement carb on Amazon, took all of 30 minutes to pull the old one and put the new one back on. Prior to that I watched several videos and also had all the tools needed ready. Carb screws take a t-20 bit.
Had to slightly adjust the idle set screw but other than that its running great now.
Found the replacement carb on Amazon, took all of 30 minutes to pull the old one and put the new one back on. Prior to that I watched several videos and also had all the tools needed ready. Carb screws take a t-20 bit.
Had to slightly adjust the idle set screw but other than that its running great now.