Can't get briggs intek to run without choke!

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drecon

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OK I thought I had this fixed but I guess not.

Googled it and found that the float needle seat gasket likes to swell over time with the ethenol gas. pulled the carb off and the bowl off and flipped it over, yep the float is not setting level its raised, gasket is swollen. No problem order a new one and replace it, float setting level now, good deal. Put it back together and same thing. I can only get it to run on choke setting 2 & 3 of 5. 2 gets it started after a pull on 1 (full choke). 2 chugs along for a few seconds until I move it to 3 where it runs pretty strong and it will run till its out of gas. But as soon as I move it to 4 or 5 it throttles down like its going to get to idle but keeps on going and dies. On 4 I can sort of keep it running by manually manipulating the throttle bar but a slight mess up will kill it. On 5 I have to give it a good amount of throttle to keep it running at all and if I barely let up on it it dies out and I can't keep it going.

I've cleaned it all twice now, new correct fuel filter, new needle float gasket, vented fuel cap, ran both with and without air filter, No change.

:censored::censored::censored::censored::censored:
 

B_Bimmer

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It's so annoying how this is almost always the right answer, but experience says Whitetrashrocker is indeed very likely correct, clean your carb again. Completely disassembled and a wire run through every opening and pinhole is the only way to go... Other than a new carb off eBay. But I have gotten some wild ones that do crazy things from there, and that crap chinese metal doesn't like any abuse. A well cleaned original is best.
 

Hellion

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And avoid ethanol at all costs.

There's a few manufacturers that stipulate this in their manuals now; Briggs is probably one of 'em.
 

Bbqjoe

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I always lean towards a leak in the intake manifold somewhere first.
Get it started, spray ether around the carb, but not into it.
If it runs better or throttles up when spraying, it's a bad gasket or connection to the engine.
 

Hellion

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↑ He's right you know.

He's actually leaning towards a LEAN condition. You gotta check gaskets and your mating surfaces when you reassemble stuff as a leak will introduce too much O2 into your mixture.

You running on choke shows you're too lean.
 

afremont

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Been seeing a lot of grey powdery stuff plugging things up this year. Instead of varnish, gas evaporates and leaves this stuff behind coating the tank. New gas breaks it up and it likes to settle in the bowl. Apparently it won't actually dissolve, and it's heavy enough that it will settle over time. It's also just the right size to start clogging up passages. I fixed a guys power washer last week that wouldn't start after sitting all winter and spring. Main jet completely blocked by this stuff. It looked like a tiny string when I pushed it out of the jet with a piece of wire.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 

Hellion

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That's more than likely on account of the ethanol in the gasoline. Ethanol (alcohol) draws in moisture, right out of the air.... then you're left with a lot of water in your gas. Gas in the gas tank, in your float bowl and anywhere else it likes to sit.

Most carbs are aluminum and so when it oxidizes you're left with a white/grey powdery, chalky residue. It's corrosion.

It's almost like new aluminum, new material deposited wherever it forms. I had to drill out a few passages in a Flo Jet carb. They were sealed, almost as if they were never there to begin with. :ack2:
 

drecon

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As an update, I ended up taking this carb on and off 3 more times for cleaning yesterday before being so aggravated I couldn't mess with it any longer. I cleaned and cleaned the crap out of it. Went through an entire brand new can of carb cleaner spraying it out over and over again. Wire reaming every tiny hole I could get to. Same thing. I don't have any ether on hand so I couldn't test it that way but the gaskets all appear good. I ended up tearing the new needle seat I installed taking it in and out for cleanings. Finally I got ****ed off enough and gave up.

I brought it in and ran it through my ultrasonic cleaner about a dozen times and it looks basically brand new on the outside. But I have to make a choice, either buy a complete rebuild kit with all the gaskets for about $8-11 dollars and see if the ultrasonic did any better then my manual cleanings, or spend $16 for a replacement carb off eBay. It would really make me angry to buy the kit and try again only to still have the same issue and still have to buy a replacement..
 

afremont

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Since it forms inside a plastic container/tank, seems unlikely that it's aluminum oxide, though it does look like that. Doing some reading, there is apparently some kind of emulsifier being added to fuel that results in this.

Sent from my Moto G (4) using Tapatalk
 

Hellion

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What are the factory settings for the carb?

Does it have air/fuel mixture valve?
Idle mixture?
Idle adjustment?

On the adjustment needles or valves as they are sometimes called, the adjustment is usually _____ turns from lightly seated, or some such.

Thought the carb was just dirty or leaky at first...
 

drecon

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But I reeeeaaalllllyy like gummy bears! (not the sugar free ones though)

No adjustments on this carb other then the idle screw can be turned out or in to offset how far the throttle adjustment can close.

I went ahead and ordered a new carb. Hopefully it will take care of my problem and not be junk. I'll be ordering the final parts to get this thing mobile this payday, and I really don't want my kids to not be able to finally ride it because I'm still dinking around with the carb. We'll see how it goes.

Some pics are included of the carb from all angles.
 

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Hellion

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Read these reviews.

https://www.amazon.com/Albanese-Candy-Sugar-Assorted-5-pound/product-reviews/B00DE4GWWY
I know this is old but I think the noobs need a lesson.

Wait, whut? :oops: Such an old story...

 

dboy

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I have the Intek 6.5 on the Murray just finished same problems same repairs I tried.
The best change was a new float. Mine idles nice on mid setting and chokes chugs on choke off but it does idle. I know it runs fine and the engine is super strong. I do find I really need to warm it up like an old dodge for it to stay idling. I'm going to just live with it as it sounds like a hot rod at idle. lol.
 

drecon

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Well I got in the cheap eBay carb, it even came pre-scratched and dinged on the bowl so that was nice. :D

But for $16 it works like a champ! She idles perfectly and runs strong!
 

Hellion

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Oh well. The Great Engine Gods have claimed another soul who failed to pack the gear to serve in my beloved Go Kart Corps. :p

Congratulations, you're an A-1 Parts Replacer.


It BETTER work, it's brand spankin' new. :D
 
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