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Calling all dodge people!

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mindymogul

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So I just finished (after 3 months) putting the a$$ end back in my truck, topped it off with fresh gas w/ STP and Gumout valve/injector/etc cleaners, replaced the fuel filter/air filter yadayada... and for some reason it acts like it's almost gasping at idle.
-Turns over
-Kicks over then shoots up to 2k (Normal)
-Drops back down then stalls immediately
-Starts back up again, and have to hold the gas to 1200rpm
-Let off, hiccups, wheezes then stalls.

I've also replaced the IAC valve...

I'm stuck.

'01 Dakota 3.9L Auto.
 

Poboy kartman

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My guess: that little modular dohickey that plugs into the air tube from the air filter to the throttle body isn't plugged in all the way....

Of course....it could be because it's a Dodge ....and you're cursed?
 

Poboy kartman

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You referring to the mass air sensor ?

Not sure. On my Toyota...there was a mass airflow sensor on the throttle body....but there was also another sensor in the air tube immediately after the air filter....

Soooo.....no....let's stick to the proper technical terms here: it's a "dohickey".

Not even sure if her vehicle has one I usually Dodge those rides....

EDIT: Oh wait....yeah....MAF....the dohickey on the throttle body is a TPS ...(Toilet Paper Sucker...JK)...throttle position sensor....
 

mindymogul

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Not even sure if her vehicle has one I usually Dodge those rides....

I usually do too... *looks out at the 6 Chrysler products in her driveway* but it doesn't have a MAF that I can see. Even holding a rag over the inlets a@ 1/2 throttle didn't do crap. And it's not acting like it's a bad seal because it's getting full vaccum when it runs normal. Hence why I'm so stuck.
 

maxpower49

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Is there any sort of check engine light on, if you do not have a code reader but you have a digital odometer you can check the codes on a dodge vehicles with a digital odometer by doing a "key Dance", turn the key on and off three times fairly quick and ending with the key on and the odometer will then change and either say P(whatever error code) followed by lines and either going to the next code or saying done, if there is no stored codes it will just show lines then done.

Also kind of an odd thing but doges are really finicky on their batteries, if it sat for a decent amount of time without running the battery might have drained and is causing issues, My truck would not want to idle, would randomly stall, and just kinda stumble and drop to like 300 rpm and almost die until I revved it, went through all sorts of stuff like the electric throttle body (yours is mechanical/cable driven), to the pcv valve, even fresh plugs, wires and coil boots (my truck has dual plugs with coil on plug and a second set of wires) turns out my battery was pretty much junk. Granted I have a different engine and I have the full sized ram 1500 but if it sat for a while I would pull the battery and take it to some sort of parts store with free testing and have it tested.
 

J_Walker

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I think that's ALL cars about the battery's... man a fresh charged battery after you've been driving/riding around for awhile. and its like WOW I GAINED 50 EXTRA HP! lmao

Lets kick the basics.

Spark?
Fuel?
Air?
Compression?

I'm assuming you're talking about when you turn it over cold it kicks up to 2000RPM. that's the ECU telling the engine to "warm up" like running a choke.. but without the fun little switch/lever!!

So that mean's you're getting a little of everything but not enough of something. I'm gonna start off by guessing its fuel.

You said you put injector cleaner in, where you expecting it to be dirty? if soo.. is it possible that you've got like two injectors clogged with crap? Did you replace a fuel pump, or check the fuel filter [either after the pump or inside the pump..] people often forget about those.. and they turn into this brown mush that can give you LOTS of clogging, your fuel additive might of unlodged some of that crud and sent it to the injectors.
 

mindymogul

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Checklist of what's been replaced:
Pump
Secondary Pump (N/S & removed)
Lines
Evap lines
Filter (F & A)
2nd,3rd,6th Injectors
Fuel Rail
IAC valve
Cam sensor
Coolant flush
EGR valve and lines
Mufflers (Dual exhaust)
US & DS o2 Sensors

Christ, I even hit the TB with a hammer and still nothin'. Maybe I should just pull the engine from the other Dakota I got?
 

mckutzy

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I'm a little out of your date to help... '87 fifth ave....

Check or get the battery tested... Might need a new one..
On my buddy's PT, he was having a bunch of issues and the battery is the culprit of the most...
 

mindymogul

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Battery is a Optima Redtop 36 Group and both alternators work fine. Aux batt isn't even plugged in. Its a fuel issue. If it was electrical it wouldn't be weezing, bogging, backfiring and all around being an absolute d***
 

Poboy kartman

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Take from this what you will:

I went to a nearby city and filled up in my old Toyota. A short while later...while driving it would just lose power and almost die then suddenly "catch" and start running fine again. This went on for almost a month and finally ....just went away.

Truck ran fine for months and then I almost ran out of gas one day, and the gremlin was back. It started running really bad, (mainly just no power....I could barely hit 65 on the freeway and it would drop to 50 on inclines.

Knowing this had to be fuel related, I started by changing the fuel filter. (Btw: this is a truck~ albeit small~ so it has 10' or more of frame rail where a fuel filter could be mounted....but NO!!!! silly Japs mounted it on the engine block!!!!) Half day job to replace...(even have to drop the starter!) Then replaced the fuel pump and screen....(really didn't expect it to be super clean like it was when I pulled it!) So...on to injectors....(bought a set of used ones off EBay) ....

No change! I gave up and took it to Toyota. They charged me about $130 and told me it had jumped a tooth on the timing. I limped it home and just moved the distributor as far as it would go one way without restabbing or moving wires, and it ran like a new truck until it died from unrelated heat stroke a month or two ago....
 

ML-TOYS

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Sounds like a faulty camshafr sensor even though its new some brands suck. If i recall when its bad or dirty from metal filings or dirty hands it can kick in the auto shutdown on the engine.
The cam sensor id what controlls basically the correct fuel flow to the injectors.
 

mindymogul

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Never buy parts from O'Reilly's.. just sayin'. The new IAC valve decided to inject it's guts into the TB and the $40 U-joint blew apart all rover the road... BLEEBITY BLEEPITY BLEEP
 

crazykart

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Check your coil. Could be weak.

Was having sort of the same symptoms on my ram. Was getting too much gas, stalling out, real head scratcher. Checked everything, was driving my nuts. Decided on a whim to check my coil. Spark was weak. $30 later and about 5 minutes of work to replace it and it runs like a top.

Fuel wasn't burning completely and caused it to act like it was starved for air. Holding the idle up manually would cause just enough spark to keep it running.
 

Poboy kartman

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Never buy parts from O'Reilly's.. just sayin'. The new IAC valve decided to inject it's guts into the TB and the $40 U-joint blew apart all rover the road... BLEEBITY BLEEPITY BLEEP

Then you REALLY don't want to buy from AutoZone! I've found O'Rielly parts to be better than AutoZone almost every time. It's a sad commentary on the state of manufacturing in this country today...it carries on through the decline in all phases of hands on work and the near extinction of Craftsmanship and pride in products produced....

People pay TOO much attention to their Smart Phones and not enough to their jobs. The work ethic I grew up with has been dead for years, and we're reaping what we have sown.
 

Kokamo

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Ok, so a few things....I operate and manage a family owned auto parts store, so lets go thru the basics....

If it was a coil, it wouldn't run good at 2K RPM. Coils either work or they don't...the only in between is when they have an internal short and randomly misfire all the time or quit working when it gets hot, in this case, it's most likely not the culprit. We have one, but haven't sold many to local shops.

If it was the distributor pickup, it wouldn't run at all. It either works or it don't. We have one, but haven't sold many.

If it was the crank position sensor, it wouldn't run at all. We have one, but haven't sold many.

If it was the MAP sensor (it has one), the symptoms above are the general case. If the sensor can't read a higher vacuum reading to let the motor know it's not under a load (idle), it may tell the computer it has a lower vacuum (load) and will confuse the computer because it associates manifold pressure with throttle position and RPM. Sometimes the sensor won't fail enough in the parameter swing reading to throw a code. Very likely this may be your issue. We have 3 and have sold many (62) last year alone.

If it was the IAC (idle air control), it would not be able to retain a constant idle. If the idle goes up to 2k upon startup and comes back down on it's own, that means it's working. That doesn't mean it's working accurately as the pintle inside it can give false readings to the computer, but this will not cause it to hiccup and carry on running bad. Have one, but haven't sold one in 18 months.

If it was the TPS (throttle position sensor), it can cause similar symptoms. Keep in mind that the idle position is used frequently and the sensor may wear the contacts at that position and give the computer random inputs and cause an erratic idle or even a runability issue like you have. This sensor is like a MAP sensor...it could not fail enough for the computer to throw a code. Very possible this is your issue as well. Have several of these and sold 54 of these last year.

Fuel pressure can cause similar issues. If you can drive it on the street and it runs good under a load, then it's not your fuel pressure or a fuel filter issue.

Check all visible grounds under the hood for loose connections. If your able to get to it easily, then loosen the bolt and retighten.

Have a genuine shop that has a nice computer that can see the parameters of individual sensors. The ones oreally and nappy auto parts have only read codes.

Good luck and keep us posted!

~Joe
 

Zombient

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Never buy parts from O'Reilly's.. just sayin'. The new IAC valve decided to inject it's guts into the TB and the $40 U-joint blew apart all rover the road... BLEEBITY BLEEPITY BLEEP

I've never had that problem. But I drive a Ford, so I rarely have problems :)

Also, Pep Boys is the worst. Not as bad as Po' Boys parts store. I ordered a new AC compressor for my truck, I got a bike pump connected to a coffee can full of ice.
 

Poboy kartman

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. Not as bad as Po' Boys parts store. I ordered a new AC compressor for my truck, I got a bike pump connected to a coffee can full of ice.

Hey...we don't carry a large inventory. Sometimes we have to improvise....it's rough when your suppliers don't know you're coming and you have to fill orders at 3 am all the time.:rolleyes:

We stand behind our products! (Far far behind....just in case!)
 

mindymogul

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Guess what...

IT WAS THE GODBLEEP IAC VALVE! O'Reilly had 3... THREE mind you faulty valves both in house brand, BWD and Dorman, Doesn;t help they were previously installed. Went to advance, got one from them and the thing purrs like a kitten... a overly grown NOS powered kitten but a kitten regardless.

O'Reilly Auto Parts! The only store that blames you for our mistakes!

Oh.. and they also won't warranty out a faulty U joint that was brought back used because "It was damaged when they go it."

Would anyone mind if that one store magically went up in flames? I think not good sir!
 
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