buggy design

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theo

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What do you guys think of a "profile" full suspended buggy, like this? Main structure 2x2x.083 or thinner if you are a good welder.


 

mike75925

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looks cool, but will a tav run at that angle? seems you'll be using the swingarm pivot as a jackshaft. that might work. were you thinking hand or foot controls? a single 2x2 riser to a engine platform, ...might work. how much rear suspension do you plan to have? from the look of the shock, the axle would be (@ full bound) an inch or two from the tav cover, so ~16"? i never did like profile airplanes, but this is interesting. i would run floor boards instead of simple stirrups. a foot comes down, could be disastrous. you would need lighter duty shocks on the front to keep the frame twist down, or beef up the frame between the seat and steering column support.
 

theo

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If I'm not mistaken the tav will run in 4 different settings, if the engine your using will allow it. Jack shaft is separate from the swing arm less parts. With the swing arm shown you will get 12" before you hit the tav. but the angle of the shocks will have to be played with to get that amount. The drawings show the front and rear suspension are at full droop. I'm not to sure if there would be a lot of flex, but I don't think so.

I use this program 2D only.
http://cgi.ebay.ca/IMSI-Turbo-CAD-D...emQQptZLH_DefaultDomain_0?hash=item5190365ffe
 

mike75925

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i meant that the way it looks your chain is going to be rubbing the pto shaft of the engine.
 

mike75925

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true, then you wouldn't need a jackshaft. but would the shaft for the driven and sprocket clear the mount's rails?
 

theo

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The 2x2 tube could be changed to a 3x3 but I show the thinnest at .100 wall and this stuff weighs 3.86 lbs. per ft. and I would need 10 ft.
 

mike75925

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i meant like 2x3. being that it is boxed already, you could put lightening holes in every so many inches or feet.
 

theo

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Just checked out some measurements for the twist point and from the x tube where the swing arm mounts to the point right below the upper shock mount is 44" and the shock upper mount is 8" up. So I think that a 2" square tube 44" long and with a piece of 2" 8" long welded to it, would take a lot of weight to twist the 44" piece.
 

mike75925

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??? speak english!! twist point = pivot? 'x' tube = crossmember? the rest for me is unintelligible since i really don't understand. sorry.
 

theo

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OK the twisting action would take place here along the red line. 42 3/4 out and 8" up.

 

mike75925

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ok, i don't see the upright twisting, i see the seat area as recieving the twisting effects. from the swingarm pivot to the base of the brace for steering. i see those welds breaking first. the front end seems beefy enough not to flex much if any. you could go with a triangular profile from the front. it would increase weight, but would add quite a bit of strength. 2 bottom rails for the area from just behind the A-arm mounts to the swingarm. about 15 more pounds in weight. then you could do the ligthening and loose say 10 of that.
 

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i was doing pretty good on google sketch up with your chassis in aluminum diamond plate. then it had to go and quit on me. oh well.
 

theo

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I was more worried about the front twisting then the rear breaking. I think that the rear is plenty strong enough, but??
Here is shown the rear view, steering seat tubes and stirrups.

modelengineer, I like the idea of simplicity, I've build kart the other way but kinda like this idea.

 

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that will strehgthen it quite a bit. now you have about 18" of single rail? shoule be stiff enough, me thinks.
 
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