Briggs Radio Rod Build
- Thread starter JTSpeedDemon
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JTSpeedDemon
2019 Build Off Winner!
Get a load of this! :arf:
Someone's already ported 'n polished the intake port!!
Some parts of it are smooth, not ideal, but it sure is interesting! I kinda have to wonder if the eyebrows have been cut too! I'll pop the head sometime.
It's mostly just that someone removed casting flash, but that was surprising!
Someone's already ported 'n polished the intake port!!
Some parts of it are smooth, not ideal, but it sure is interesting! I kinda have to wonder if the eyebrows have been cut too! I'll pop the head sometime.
It's mostly just that someone removed casting flash, but that was surprising!
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Kentucky Boy
Member
Looks stock to me. Doesn’t look like it’s been ported at all. Maybe touched up slightly from the factory.
JTSpeedDemon
2019 Build Off Winner!
This little bracket on the side of the block was absolutely filthy, so I pulled it off since it's unnecessary. NO the screw hole does not go through the side of the block, it's not a through hole.
So that's one less unnecessary piece gone.
I also finally pulled the cylinder head and breather cover! Valvetrain is pretty ordinary, but it has the one piece retainers, so that's a plus.
You can also see all of the deposits I found on the piston and in the combustion chamber. Those indicate oil burning.
So I cleaned the deposits off and looked at the cylinder wall.
It's just another plain ol' Kool Bore, and it's pretty scored up. In the pictures you can also see that someone has already honed it, since there's a bit of crosshatch. But there's just too much scoring.
Maybe if I really want to save this engine I could get it bored out and sleeve it, but I don't know. It doesn't burn oil noticeably smoke-wise, but it burns oil nonetheless.
This engine has the Easy-Spin cam, with the compression release on the intake valve, so that's not ideal, but oh well.
I will say though, that the chrome piston and everything looks pretty now that I've cleaned it up!
The head gasket is TOAST. It left part of itself on the head, so I had to scrape it off. Back to shopping!
While I have the head off I'm also leveling/shaving it a little bit with a single cut file as my Haynes manual recommends. It's got a lot of imperfections mating surface wise, but either way, a tad more compression won't hurt.
Note that the eyebrows are very subtle on this 3 HP compared to the 5 HP....
Glad I finally opened it up!
So that's one less unnecessary piece gone.
I also finally pulled the cylinder head and breather cover! Valvetrain is pretty ordinary, but it has the one piece retainers, so that's a plus.
You can also see all of the deposits I found on the piston and in the combustion chamber. Those indicate oil burning.
So I cleaned the deposits off and looked at the cylinder wall.
It's just another plain ol' Kool Bore, and it's pretty scored up. In the pictures you can also see that someone has already honed it, since there's a bit of crosshatch. But there's just too much scoring.
Maybe if I really want to save this engine I could get it bored out and sleeve it, but I don't know. It doesn't burn oil noticeably smoke-wise, but it burns oil nonetheless.
This engine has the Easy-Spin cam, with the compression release on the intake valve, so that's not ideal, but oh well.
I will say though, that the chrome piston and everything looks pretty now that I've cleaned it up!
The head gasket is TOAST. It left part of itself on the head, so I had to scrape it off. Back to shopping!
While I have the head off I'm also leveling/shaving it a little bit with a single cut file as my Haynes manual recommends. It's got a lot of imperfections mating surface wise, but either way, a tad more compression won't hurt.
Note that the eyebrows are very subtle on this 3 HP compared to the 5 HP....
Glad I finally opened it up!
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Budget GoKart
Aka a kenbar
My 5hp looked worse but now I have another 5hp and I think a 2hp
JTSpeedDemon
2019 Build Off Winner!
Yeah, that green 5 HP was reeeaally beat up. This one isn't too bad, but it's far FAR from ideal.
It's really funny to see how short the stroke it compared to my HiPo...
Sometime I'll crack the case. For all I know it has the plastic cam. In which case it should be really easy to remove the compression release. Or just stick a metal one in there.
---------- Post added at 02:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:49 PM ----------
Just measured bore/stroke, and it's got a 2.375" bore, and a 1.5" stroke. Definitely a 3 HP.
It's really funny to see how short the stroke it compared to my HiPo...
Sometime I'll crack the case. For all I know it has the plastic cam. In which case it should be really easy to remove the compression release. Or just stick a metal one in there.
---------- Post added at 02:34 PM ---------- Previous post was at 01:49 PM ----------
Just measured bore/stroke, and it's got a 2.375" bore, and a 1.5" stroke. Definitely a 3 HP.
JTSpeedDemon
2019 Build Off Winner!
Just bought a gasket set on Ebay, ~$14.
Since it'll have a sidecover gasket, I'll crack the case sometime soon, see what's inside.
More than anything, I want to know what kind of bearings it has, and if it has the plastic cam.
It'll probably turn into some mild modding.
I think I'm going to install the nice black oil dipper from the HiPo stock rod(if it fits), and drill another oiling hole in the same position as the Raptor rods have them.
If the black dipper won't fit, I'll at least trim the dipper to make it less likely to break. Since it's ungoverned, I want to minimize the chance of throwing a rod. And I plan to remove the Easy-Spin part of the intake camshaft lobe. If it's a plain bearing, so I won't have to take out the entire crankshaft. I'll also check oil clearance while I'm in there.
Since it'll have a sidecover gasket, I'll crack the case sometime soon, see what's inside.
More than anything, I want to know what kind of bearings it has, and if it has the plastic cam.
It'll probably turn into some mild modding.
I think I'm going to install the nice black oil dipper from the HiPo stock rod(if it fits), and drill another oiling hole in the same position as the Raptor rods have them.
If the black dipper won't fit, I'll at least trim the dipper to make it less likely to break. Since it's ungoverned, I want to minimize the chance of throwing a rod. And I plan to remove the Easy-Spin part of the intake camshaft lobe. If it's a plain bearing, so I won't have to take out the entire crankshaft. I'll also check oil clearance while I'm in there.
JTSpeedDemon
2019 Build Off Winner!
Cracked the case....(NOT literally!) Plus Mods!
Finally opened up the sidecover!
Plain(literally) bearings on both ends, the flywheel side one is really shot(I can literally move the crank laterally until the flywheel rubs the coil
). So that'll need replacement/reaming out+new bushing.
The head had a lot of mating surface imperfections, and while I was flattening it, I kinda made a low spot on accident.
So I filed it down even more, paying more attention to flatness. There was no "lip" to begin with, so you can see that there's a big shiny area now on the head.
I also cut a rudimentary fire slot with a round bastard file(no, it's not foul language, just the technical term).
No provision at all on this block for a mechanical governor, so it's a bit different and interesting.
The oil had a bit of milky stuff in it, I can only imagine that it was water, but the inside is all nice and clean and free of rust!
I pulled the cam, and I carefully filed the intake lobe a bit to remove the Easy-Spin compression release, so before, the intake valve would stay open for about 80% of the compression stroke, and now it's only open for about the first 10% of the compression stroke.
MOAR POWAH!!!
You can see in the last two pics where I filed the lobe a bit.
I would've pulled the piston, rod and crankshaft, but I can't straighten out the locking tabs, any tips?
Tweakin' it here and there for more power! Felt like a real old fashioned hot rodder out there, making a fire slot and stuff. Plus it'll be going on the Radio Rod.
Finally opened up the sidecover!
Plain(literally) bearings on both ends, the flywheel side one is really shot(I can literally move the crank laterally until the flywheel rubs the coil
). So that'll need replacement/reaming out+new bushing.The head had a lot of mating surface imperfections, and while I was flattening it, I kinda made a low spot on accident.
So I filed it down even more, paying more attention to flatness. There was no "lip" to begin with, so you can see that there's a big shiny area now on the head.
I also cut a rudimentary fire slot
with a round bastard file(no, it's not foul language, just the technical term).No provision at all on this block for a mechanical governor, so it's a bit different and interesting.
The oil had a bit of milky stuff in it, I can only imagine that it was water, but the inside is all nice and clean and free of rust!
I pulled the cam, and I carefully filed the intake lobe a bit to remove the Easy-Spin compression release, so before, the intake valve would stay open for about 80% of the compression stroke, and now it's only open for about the first 10% of the compression stroke.
MOAR POWAH!!!
You can see in the last two pics where I filed the lobe a bit.
I would've pulled the piston, rod and crankshaft, but I can't straighten out the locking tabs, any tips?
Tweakin' it here and there for more power! Felt like a real old fashioned hot rodder out there, making a fire slot and stuff. Plus it'll be going on the Radio Rod.
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JTSpeedDemon
2019 Build Off Winner!
Ok, after looking at the service manual, reaming out/installing a bushing in the block can't be done by me.
I'll take it in to the local repair shop and see what they say. They may just give me another block from some abandoned engine/piece of epuipment, ya never know.
Either way, this thing has a seriously worn block bearing, causing a LOT of flywheel runout. I don't feel comfortable slinging it around on the wagon with the flywheel flopping about, so something's gonna have to happen.
Although I do need to check because evidently, some were made with needle bearings.
---------- Post added at 09:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:59 AM ----------
Oooh!
Just caught a lead on an inexpensive 3 HP I/C steel bore block! I'm inquiring about the bore and the block side bearing. Crossing my fingers!
I'll take it in to the local repair shop and see what they say. They may just give me another block from some abandoned engine/piece of epuipment, ya never know.
Either way, this thing has a seriously worn block bearing, causing a LOT of flywheel runout. I don't feel comfortable slinging it around on the wagon with the flywheel flopping about, so something's gonna have to happen.
Although I do need to check because evidently, some were made with needle bearings.
---------- Post added at 09:06 AM ---------- Previous post was at 08:59 AM ----------
Oooh!
Just caught a lead on an inexpensive 3 HP I/C steel bore block! I'm inquiring about the bore and the block side bearing. Crossing my fingers!
J.S.@SMS
Road Hazard
To me, that's the right way to remove a compression release on one of those engines. I don't really like the idea of opening up the valve lash to get rid of it, just seems counterproductive to me.
But I haven't seen one of these engines where the flywheel side bearing was that worn. Did the guy you bought it from say what it was used on? Probably had some pretty high hours on it, so I'd check the pto side as well.
Apparently you posted while I was typing. But that's a good find, if it's in good condition.
But I haven't seen one of these engines where the flywheel side bearing was that worn. Did the guy you bought it from say what it was used on? Probably had some pretty high hours on it, so I'd check the pto side as well.
Apparently you posted while I was typing. But that's a good find, if it's in good condition.
JTSpeedDemon
2019 Build Off Winner!
He said it was on a tiller. And it still had the belt pulley, so I believe it(I have it stashed away for future use).
Interestingly there is no sign of oil leakage from the flywheel side, the points were totally clean. But it has at least 1/16" of lateral play, which is very bad.
I'll measure the PTO side with a caliper.
It just occurred to me that the I/C block, since it was made in 1999, will probably have no provision for the points type crankshaft, so I'll need a new one. Otherwise, all the parts should swap over nicely, besides the piston and rings.
If it mismatches colors, oh well. It's already got the wrong blower housing!
Interestingly there is no sign of oil leakage from the flywheel side, the points were totally clean. But it has at least 1/16" of lateral play, which is very bad.
I'll measure the PTO side with a caliper.
It just occurred to me that the I/C block, since it was made in 1999, will probably have no provision for the points type crankshaft, so I'll need a new one. Otherwise, all the parts should swap over nicely, besides the piston and rings.
If it mismatches colors, oh well. It's already got the wrong blower housing!
JTSpeedDemon
2019 Build Off Winner!
Well, I finally put it back together today after being in pieces for MONTHS!!
I thought I ruined the cylinder head, but I just siliconed it up and put it back together.
I decided this engine's beat up enough I'm not going to worry about the cylinder as it doesn't smoke, and it's not really worth it to rebush.
In short, I'm just gonna SEND IT!!!
Oh yeah, and the significantly shaved head and compression release removal made it a bit harder to turn over, but it's a l'il THUMPER now!
I thought I ruined the cylinder head, but I just siliconed it up and put it back together.
I decided this engine's beat up enough I'm not going to worry about the cylinder as it doesn't smoke, and it's not really worth it to rebush.
In short, I'm just gonna SEND IT!!!
Oh yeah, and the significantly shaved head and compression release removal made it a bit harder to turn over, but it's a l'il THUMPER now!
Budget GoKart
Aka a kenbar
Awesome to see progress
JTSpeedDemon
2019 Build Off Winner!
Yup! It was getting really irritating sitting on the workbench in pieces for MONTHS!
Jmharding
New member
You figured out what length rear axle your going with? I'm on same project with a roadmaster wagon with front mounted 2hp briggs
Bansil
Painter of gnomes....
lol...I remember charging up those little condensers in auto class mid 80's....charge it and toss it at a friend...
JTSpeedDemon
2019 Build Off Winner!
Haha, glad people haven't forgotten about this thread.
The current pandemic has hampered my yard work income lately, so the Radio Rod has taken a backseat to my other projects. Currently I'm saving up for my first welder, and some high dollar parts to build my kart's HiPo flattie. After the kart gets finished up, then I will either flip my 5 HP rototiller, or till some yard with it, then sell it, to get some money for the Radio Rod. The main thing on this will be overhauling the chassis.
So no, I have not decided what rear axle length I'm going with.
The current pandemic has hampered my yard work income lately, so the Radio Rod has taken a backseat to my other projects. Currently I'm saving up for my first welder, and some high dollar parts to build my kart's HiPo flattie. After the kart gets finished up, then I will either flip my 5 HP rototiller, or till some yard with it, then sell it, to get some money for the Radio Rod. The main thing on this will be overhauling the chassis.
So no, I have not decided what rear axle length I'm going with.