Briggs main jet clogged

[danable]

Working on a model 135202 and the main jet is clogged. Purchased a rebuild kit and it has a main jet in it but I was told by a local guy that the main jet in these motors is not removeable. Is this true?

 

[KartFab]

looks like you might have to do the easy thing and just spray out the main jet with carb cleaner.

 

[danable]

I've sprayed the main jet with brake cleaner, carb cleaner and compressed air. The kart has sat up for over 10 years. I'm about to put the carb in my ultrasonic cleaner to see if that will help. I'd love to take the old jet out and screw in this new one. Is that not possible ?

 

[Poboy kartman]

My neighbor had a tiller that had a rusty gas tank and a carb that was a lump of rust on the inside. I had to soak the carb in CLR just to disassemble it. I also soaked the tank with CLR for a day, rinsed it out and repeated.

I boiled the disassembled carb in lemon juice...(that works wonders!). Poked out all the little passages with a fine wire, reassembled everything and it fired right up. I didn't get it 100% perfect as it had a tiny bit of a rough idle, but off idle it purred like a kitten and it didn't die while idiling.

My neighbor was thrilled, and didn't care a bit about the idle, as that paticular carb alone cost around $100, and we never even priced the tank!

BTW: It was a Briggs...and I didn't charge him anything, (but he has an automotive hydraulic lift in his backyard he lets me use for free!!!!) Unfortunately, that makes it harder for me to crawl around under a car on jackstands now!!! (But I still do it!) But...standing up working on cars will spoil you quickly!

 

[ML-TOYS]

Yup just boil in lemon juice then use the metal out of a bread twist tie to poke it.
I use a hot plate outside cause it stinks when you boil it.

 

[ChromeRhino]

The 135202 is just the model number. There are many different types of 135202's that were used on many different applications. The carburetor design on the 135202's differed by the application it was used in and, ofcourse, by model year. All the information you can get from 135202 is that its roughly 13 cu. In. of displacement, a series 5 engine, horizontal shaft, with a plain bearing on the PTO and a rewind starter. There is an engine type number which provides the engines mechanical parts, color, decals, governed speed and OEM and a CODE number which gives you the year, manufacturing plant and assembly line. You will either have to give a more specific number set, carb model numbers or just wait to take it apart and find out for yourself, Bud. Wish I could help you more.

 

[danable]

Ok model 135202 type 0175 and code 9311092E

The new jet has a slot for a flat head, the jet that's in the actual carb does not. Were there only some jets that were removeable? Also thank you guys for the lemon juice tip I've never heard of that. The garage I work at only takes in OBD2 vehicles so nothing older than 1996. Point being my experience with carbs is just tinkering in my shop at home here and there.

 

[zbuck]

Type number i should be 0175-01. According to my book, that engine is 23 yrs old. Carb number 498298, early EPA fixed main jet carb. It should have a pilot jet and a idle jet. As suggested, cook it in lemon juice/ CLR and use a wire tie on the fixed main jet. Good luck with your endevers.

 

[danable]

Thank you very much. One more question and please forgive my terminology I'll be using if it's incorrect. The plate that is bolted down on the fuel pump diaphragm is corroded in the area under one of the small flappers. I'm assuming the diaphragm needs to seal up against that and it's not able because of the pitting. Would this prevent the motor from running properly ?

 

[ChromeRhino]

Thank you very much. One more question and please forgive my terminology I'll be using if it's incorrect. The plate that is bolted down on the fuel pump diaphragm is corroded in the area under one of the small flappers. I'm assuming the diaphragm needs to seal up against that and it's not able because of the pitting. Would this prevent the motor from running properly ?

Yes, if its aucking air or not sealing and the pressure is forcing gas out, or the fuel is allowed to flow properly, there is a possibility that it would prevent it (if its bad enough) from starting, have a rough idle or start and then stop but it just depends on how the carb is built and how its tuned. Its good to get that area smooth and have a good seal. Then again, I have seen them run just fine like that.

 

[danable]

Ok. I have a second motor with a pump that's in good shape. I'm gonna swap them out just to see the difference before I do the boil. I appreciate all the help you guys.

 

[zbuck]

Ok. I have a second motor with a pump that's in good shape. I'm gonna swap them out just to see the difference before I do the boil. I appreciate all the help you guys.

Let me see if I understand. You are going to swap carbs, or just parts of the pump?

---------- Post added at 07:34 AM ---------- Previous post was at 07:25 AM ----------

Thank you very much. One more question and please forgive my terminology I'll be using if it's incorrect. The plate that is bolted down on the fuel pump diaphragm is corroded in the area under one of the small flappers. I'm assuming the diaphragm needs to seal up against that and it's not able because of the pitting. Would this prevent the motor from running properly ?

You are Welcome. Its most likely that cover having corrosion. That there was water in the fuel/or the engine was exposed to water at one time. And could cause it not to pump fuel.

 

[danable]

Outer plate of the pump, so I'll be using the one that is not corroded and a new gasket. Just to see if it makes a difference before I boil the carb in lemon juice.

 

[zbuck]

Outer plate of the pump, so I'll be using the one that is not corroded and a new gasket. Just to see if it makes a difference before I boil the carb in lemon juice.

Diaphragm #: B&S 272538S. Also check the spring and cup for corrosion, if so replace. Spring # 691213, Cup # 690766. Check the cover for flatness, they tend to warp. If not flat, Use a piece of 320 wet/dry sandpaper on a smooth flat surface, wet sandpaper and sand sealing surface of the cover in a fiqure eight pattern until flat. Good luck.

 

[danable]

Thanks for the help Zbuck. I've decided to just put a predator 6 1/2 horse. I may go pick it up today if I have time. Just wondering what's the easiest way to connect throttle cables to them. Since they have a hand throttle like you would use on a log splitter or something similar, not a cable and pedal like a kart.

 

[Jrgunn5150]

Thanks for the help Zbuck. I've decided to just put a predator 6 1/2 horse. I may go pick it up today if I have time. Just wondering what's the easiest way to connect throttle cables to them. Since they have a hand throttle like you would use on a log splitter or something similar, not a cable and pedal like a kart.

There are two clamps on the hand throttle you can use to hook your gas pedal up to.

 

[Poboy kartman]

You need to loosen the nut the hand throttle pivots on so it can move freely.

 

[danable]

Thanks again guys. I picked up the motor and see its going to be quite easy. I had just assumed it only had the hand throttle and no return spring. I can see why so many people just pick this thing up. I think I was at $130 something with tax.

 

[Poboy kartman]

Thanks again guys. I picked up the motor and see its going to be quite easy. I had just assumed it only had the hand throttle and no return spring. I can see why so many people just pick this thing up. I think I was at $130 something with tax.

Ouch! a little on the high side! When you get a chance...go back and fill out a registration card to receive coupons or go online...the 20% coupons don't apply...but they have Predator coupons for under a hundred.....

(Never pay full price at HF!)

 

[danable]

it was already on sale! I was under the assumption that the coupons don't apply to items already on sale. FYI I have high local taxes !!! right at 10% (9.something)