Briggs and Stratton

[courts94s]

I got the 3hp Briggs flathead running well, so I decided to do some cosmetic work on it. I got it cleaned up, and down to bare metal.

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[Whitetrashrocker]

That is cool looking.
Clear coat it.

 

[courts94s]

That is cool looking.
Clear coat it.

I was thinking about that. It wouldn't really match anything, but it would look cool!


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[courts94s]

The weather has been too cold and rainy for painting the 3hp one. So, I decided to give the 5hp a little attention, before I end up accepting defeat and purchase a Predator.....

Well, I got it running and boy does it sound nice. I changed the spark plug, added some fresh fuel, and cleaned out the carb one more time. It revs pretty fierce without the governor. Maybe tomorrow after work, I'll put the straight pipe back on the exhaust, and try to tune the carb.


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[Hellion]

I would have jumped in earlier and tried to warn you away from any engine that doesn't say "Made In China" on it but I was on hiatus.

Why are you messing around with these archaic engines?

Are you a glutton for punishment?

 

[courts94s]

I would have jumped in earlier and tried to warn you away from any engine that doesn't say "Made In China" on it but I was on hiatus.

Why are you messing around with these archaic engines?

Are you a glutton for punishment?

I fix electronics on radars, so...
1. More "mechanical" experience (I have zero).
2. They're American. And Americans like American made stuff.
3. I think the look cool.
4. Just for fun. I like to take things apart. That's what I did as a kid. That's what I do in the Army, and I like to do it as a hobby.
I'm curious if we find a dead Predator engine 30 years from now, it will run?


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---------- Post added at 08:13 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:40 PM ----------

Why are you messing around with these archaic engines?

Also, they were free. It only cost about $30 to get both of them running.... I've probably spent $100 on degreasers and paint, but I don't count that.

And, I already have a Predator, with an aftermarket air intake, jetted carb, and header.


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[Whitetrashrocker]

I'm curious if we find a dead Predator engine 30 years from now, it will run?

Not if FHB got to it first

 

[courts94s]

Not if FHB got to it first

Yeah I saw his video.... I think it was Miller High Life he preferred as a lubricant (for the soul and for the engine)


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[B.M.800]

I agree with clear coating. Seems like alot of effort to make them look like that, then paint over it.... It looks awesome. Id do that... but I dont think I have the patience.

 

[courts94s]

I agree with clear coating. Seems like alot of effort to make them look like that, then paint over it.... It looks awesome. Id do that... but I dont think I have the patience.

In the Army we have to do a thing called CQ. You just sit at the barracks all day (24hours). You can accomplish a lot, when you literally have all day.
The main goal was to get rid of the years worth of baked on oil. Then get rid of the rust. And by that point I figured I might as well finish the whole thing off.


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---------- Post added at 10:56 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:50 AM ----------

I agree with clear coating.

I'm apprehensive to just clear coat the block. I bought some ultra high heat clear coat made for exhaust. I followed the directions to a T, to include baking it in the oven to cure it. Within 5mins of firing up the engine, that stuff was bubbling off. My header turned into a sticky mess! I think I'll paint the block, then give the cover and tank some more attention, then clear those low heat pieces.




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---------- Post added at 11:00 AM ---------- Previous post was at 10:56 AM ----------

This was worked as well as pouring Elmer's glue on the header.

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[Hellion]

Well, the block is cast aluminum and you could sit down and go 'all Zen' on it, hand polishing the metal with Flitz or some such polishing paste and make it look really nice. Once polished, it would take a long time (or forever) to oxidize, especially if you kept it out of the weather.

You could also touch up everything to get rid of the swirl marks left from your rotary tool (angle grinder)?

I'd really only use a clear coating on the steel parts, where it counts. Your choice though.

EDIT--did you clean the carbon from the valves and combustion chamber?

 

[courts94s]

EDIT--did you clean the carbon from the valves and combustion chamber?

I did.




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---------- Post added at 07:17 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:16 PM ----------

I made this air filter adapter out of a large flat washer

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---------- Post added at 07:18 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:17 PM ----------

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---------- Post added at 07:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:18 PM ----------

I still have some cosmetic work to do on it, but the mechanical work is done. This thing is as loud as a motorcycle. Hopefully the performance will equal its looks and sound!

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[BCThompson1427]

Engine looks great man.

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[courts94s]

I decided on Ford Blue for the engine, and bare metal (w/ clear coat) for the cover and accents.

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[courts94s]

These are 5 & 3 hp. I pick up a 2hp this weekend. I have two broke 5hp ones, that I'm going to try to piece together. And, I'm going to try to low ball someone in Dallas for a 1950's 5hp Briggs. I think I might need to find a Briggs & Stratton engine forum!!!

 

[Texan]

You sure have a quick turn around on your projects. Good job and great pics, they look nice. I have 3 Briggs Flatheads sitting on a shelf begging me to restore.

 

[courts94s]

You sure have a quick turn around on your projects. Good job and great pics, they look nice. I have 3 Briggs Flatheads sitting on a shelf begging me to restore.

Thanks.
Yeah, I don't like to sit on things for too long. Hopefully I'll have my go kart finished (except for the seat) this weekend. Then get started on another engine.


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[Hellion]

Looks great man! Very nice "restores" on them both.

I like that carb adapter you made. What's the specs on it or what are the raw materials, washer size, tubing etc?

 

[courts94s]

Looks great man! Very nice "restores" on them both.

I like that carb adapter you made. What's the specs on it or what are the raw materials, washer size, tubing etc?

That's an excellent question... the air breather and steel spacer have a 1 inch ID. The rubber flexible coupling (made for pvc plumbing) is a 3/4 to 3/4 adapter (which really means 1 inch ID). I don't know the exact dimensions on the washer, it was about 31/32 inch ID. About 2 inch OD. The engine is so old, there isn't really any "fine" tuning the carb like a predator. I didn't want to do a 3inch K&N filter, without the ability to really adjust the jets. This model has all fixed jets, with a needle adjustment for fuel. I think the 1 inch air intake works perfect for this engine. Once I get it mounted, I'll buy a new spark plug and do some readings on it. I'll do an annoyingly detailed rebuild of the next one, in case someone is ever searching for info on one of these Briggs Flatheads.
Intake adapter is a 1 inch steel spacer from TSC and a flat washer from the kitchen drawer. The air filter was $10 at Autozone. The 3/4-3/4 flexible coupling can be ordered from Home Depot for about $5

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[courts94s]

Why are you messing around with these archaic engines?

I got two more archaic engines. Both Briggs, a 1952 6B-S & an unknown year (maybe 1950, I have to research the serial) model 5-S (pictured below). I'll start a new thread for each one, when I do the rebuild.

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