Bought this stuff. Gonna make a bar stool racer.

[Lugnutz65]

Just bought this older frame and whatever else was included. I mainly wanted the frame to make a bar stool racer. Axle has been cut, so that’s junk. Tires and wheels seem to be from a lawn tractor. Steering shaft and wheel might get used.
Trying to keep my budget down.

I will likely narrow the frame some and shorten the wheel base. Then new axle and front spindles.
I already have a 10HP Briggs and Stratton side shaft motor with 1” output shaft.

 

[pearl111]

This will be interesting, so maybe you'll keep us posted on what's going on as you build this project.

 

[Lugnutz65]

Absolutely. I joined this forum to see what advice folks have and to share my build. I’ve owned mini bikes, dirt bikes, Harleys, classic cars/trucks . . . but now I NEED a bar stool racer.
I can weld and wrench pretty well and I understand the mechanics of the build. Just need the parts and time to complete it. These pics show where I’m headed.

 

[Rat]

I wouldn't narrow it, wider track width is better for cornering stability on something with such a short wheelbase and is naturally a bit tip happy and definitely top heavy by design.

 

[Lugnutz65]

I wouldn't narrow it, wider track width is better for cornering stability on something with such a short wheelbase and is naturally a bit tip happy and definitely top heavy by design.

I’ll choose a rear axle width and make the frame fit the axle. I watched a video where the width was 36”.
So my question is this. If the axle is 36” wide, then I presume the racing style wheels and hubs add a little width, right?
Pic is for reference.

 

[Rat]

So my question is this. If the axle is 36” wide, then I presume the racing style wheels and hubs add a little width, right?

Definitely.
how much all depends on the hub design, wheel offset, wheel width, and if course tire width.
A 36" axle can easily create a 48-52" footprint

 

[Lugnutz65]

Definitely.
how much all depends on the hub design, wheel offset, wheel width, and if course tire width.
A 36" axle can easily create a 48-52" footprint

I’m looking at 1.25” diameter rear axles. I weigh 210 lbs. From reading it seems a 1.25” rear axle does not have threads on the end. The pictures all look like 1.25” the entire length of the axle.
Stupid question maybe, but how does the heel hub and wheel stay on the axle? Is the friction of the pinch style hub enough to hold things together?

 

[BaconBitRacing]

I’m looking at 1.25” diameter rear axles. I weigh 210 lbs. From reading it seems a 1.25” rear axle does not have threads on the end. The pictures all look like 1.25” the entire length of the axle.
Stupid question maybe, but how does the heel hub and wheel stay on the axle? Is the friction of the pinch style hub enough to hold things together?

1 inch axle is the standard. You can find all kinds of parts for 1 inchers like bearings and sprockets very affordable. It will easily handle 10 hp from you Briggs.

 

[Lugnutz65]

Thank you very much for the advice. That’s exactly what I need, good advice. I tend to over engineer things sometimes.
I’ll look at buying a 36 inch axle, 1 inch diameter, and hubs for American bolt pattern wheels.
I have a source for 4 used wheels and tires. I should be able to buy them on Friday.

 

[G.W]

You might have better luck building a simple frame from scratch

 

[Lugnutz65]

You might have better luck building a simple frame from scratch

Well, that was the original plan, but steel tubing isn’t cheap, and I got this stuff at bargain basement prices.

 

[BaconBitRacing]

Thank you very much for the advice. That’s exactly what I need, good advice. I tend to over engineer things sometimes.
I’ll look at buying a 36 inch axle, 1 inch diameter, and hubs for American bolt pattern wheels.
I have a source for 4 used wheels and tires. I should be able to buy them on Friday.

No problem. The best way safeguard the axle (no matter its size) is to keep the bearings relatively close to the wheels. The people here who build stuff around here can give better specifics than I. I learned all this from them.

 

[Lugnutz65]

No problem. The best way safeguard the axle (no matter its size) is to keep the bearings relatively close to the wheels. The people here who build stuff around here can give better specifics than I. I learned all this from them.

That makes sense. The shorter the amount of axle outboard of the bearing, the better.

 

[G.W]

No problem. The best way safeguard the axle (no matter its size) is to keep the bearings relatively close to the wheels. The people here who build stuff around here can give better specifics than I. I learned all this from them.

Bent axles are no fun especially without suspension. My buggy has a bent axle and it has a hop at 25. That is the next major part to replace after I get it rolling u der it's own power again.

 

[Lugnutz65]

Well, purchased more used parts yesterday. Probably should have just bought them new. Clean up time is killing me. Arranged to buy used wheels with used tires. Good deal there. Also bought a Banshee Phantom circle track frame with assorted parts but doubt I can use the frame because of how it’s set up. I’ll use the axle and steering column. Frame would require lots of modification.

 

[ohv_]

That's darn cool. I was looking at something like this but didn't know the name of it!!!

 

[Elias]

Is the friction of the pinch style hub enough to hold things together?


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skysmotor.co.uk sells the following products online: pancake stepper motor, hollow shaft stepper motor, servo motors, planetary gearbox and can be purchased online if required.

 

[Lugnutz65]

Is the friction of the pinch style hub enough to hold things together?

It should hold just fine. Bar stool karts can’t take turns at speed.
Just bought a bunch of new parts. Also bought a used Honda 6HP with 3/4” side shaft which is a more appropriate HP for this project. Torque converter ordered.
Once I have axles assembled I will decide on frame width and start the frame.

 

[Lugnutz65]

New parts arrived. I mocked up the 1.25” X 36” rear axle I have so I can start to design the frame I’ll build.
These are standard 5/8” front spindles. If I thread the nut on about 8 full turns I have about 2” of space where I’ll need some sort of spacer. Does it need some sort of thrust bearing where the spacer meets the inner hub bearing?

 

[G.W]

Just put some spacers between the bearings to keep them from getting side loaded. Then a spacer behind shouldn't be a problem