Bought this stuff. Gonna make a bar stool racer.

[Lugnutz65]

Just put some spacers between the bearings to keep them from getting side loaded. Then a spacer behind shouldn't be a problem

The front hub has an inner and an outer bearing. I think you are telling me to use a 2” sleeve to keep the hub from walking towards the vertical king pin sleeve. Do you want me to add a spacer BETWEEN the inner and outer hub bearings too?

 

[Denny]

Yes, that’s generally a good idea to keep from crushing the bearings when tightening the spindle nut.

 

[Thepartsguy]

I swapped a 36” live axle into that same kart and put two Briggs 5hp’s on it. One of the few karts out there that is wide enough in the rear to re-work stuff for a second engine plate.

 

[Lugnutz65]

Question:
I need advice about front axle toe, caster and camber.
I seem to get conflicting/confusing explanations on YouTube and the web.
I will build a rear steer Ackerman style steering setup for this bar stool go kart. Keep in mind that cornering at speed is really not a consideration.

Please comment on the following:

Camber - The spindle should have a few degrees of POSITIVE camber. True or false?

Toe - A slight bit of TOE OUT. Yes?

Caster - I really have no idea.

 

[Denny]

0 caster
7degrees max positive caster
1/16” toe in max.

 

[Lugnutz65]

0 caster
7degrees max positive caster
1/16” toe in max.

Excellent. Thanks!
Let the build BEGIN!
I’ll update here with my build pics soon.

 

[Lugnutz65]

Looks like the rear of the frame is already correct for a 36” axle. Thats a plus!
Front width looks about 3” too wide.
The width will help stability.
Wood blocks are merely an estimate for clearance. My rear axle support will be welded ABOVE the frame rail, so the 2.5” to 3” frame clearance is my estimate.
Wheel base needs to be shortened some IMO. Pic shows a 43” wheelbase. I’m thinking more like 36” wheelbase.
I’ll cut off frame tube on sides and keep the center supports for rigidity. The bar stool supports will add rigidity too.
Comments and advice welcome!

 

[Lugnutz65]

More mock up. Life gets in the way so my progress has been slower than I expected.
Looks like I’ll chop the frame up and weld it in the shape I want.
Couple questions.
1. Does it matter if the flangettes are inboard or outboard?
2. My front spindles have control arms that are angled down in the picture. I’m thinking they should be angled up, right?
3. Does it matter if the little bearing set screws are mounted inboard or outboard?

I’m thinking I like around 34” for the wheel base.
Looks like I’ll need to move the gas tank on my engine to eliminate interference with the torque converter.

 

[Thepartsguy]

Those set screws are ONLY there so nothing shifts or slides while tightening down the split locking collars. They will not hold the axle in place by themselves.

 

[Lugnutz65]

Those set screws are ONLY there so nothing shifts or slides while tightening down the split locking collars. They will not hold the axle in place by themselves.

So I need a split collar on BOTH sides of each hub, right?

 

[Thepartsguy]

So I need a split collar on BOTH sides of each hub, right?

They hold everything.. One on each side of the sprocket one each side of the brake disk/drum. To start you will need 4 that way you can put one on each side of the axle hanger bearings to keep the axle from sliding inside the bearings. the setscrews will not hold that axle alone.

 

[Denny]

Flip the flanges and weld mento around. You’ll get more clearance Clarence!