Bolt stuck on KT196 secondary clutch

[Echo_Pulse]

Hi,
I am new to the forum. I have been playing with a KT196 for my son. (Changed the steering for instance etc...)

Recently, belts were ripping all the time and I realized the old clutch was dead (brass ring on primary broke, and springs are loose on secondary...)
-> Belt was ripping = heating = melting = not fun!


I ordered a new clutch (torque converter) on Amazon and started the replacement process today.
All went fine until I hit a wall: I could not change the secondary clutch (the one driving the chain). The 21' BOLT is totally stuck.

Of course, I tried to run the kart with the new primary and the old secondary... and the old one broke apart (the spring went out of position)

I have been trying to unscrew the 21' bolt in order to change the secondary clutch.. without success

Does anybody have some advice? Do I miss a step? (I know there'a a metallic bar inside, I checked, it's not armed in the bolt)

Here are some pics below! (You can see the I tried to get the bolt out, it's a bit worn)


THANKS A LOT !!! (from me and my son)

 

[Edwin Spangler]

Cant you put a prybar through the spring retainer?

 

[Denny]

Take the kart to an automotive repair shop and flip a mechanic $10.00 to take an impact to nut to get it off.

 

[Echo_Pulse]

Cant you put a prybar through the spring retainer?

Tried the prybar + big wrench… no cigar.
(I even broke a screwdriver I 1st used as a prybar)

Maybe I need the impact drill method / mechanic.

I understand this bolt should go normally just unscrewing it: There’s no trick (like removing “something somewhere”)
Am I correct? It’s just stuck.

thanks !

 

[Master Hack]

Tried the prybar + big wrench… no cigar.
(I even broke a screwdriver I 1st used as a prybar

do you have the correct socket and breaker bar? The way its scratched up l'm thinkin there might be improper tooling selection.
putting a prybar through the driven could result in a (more) broken driven.

 

[Echo_Pulse]

I have the correct socket.
But I tried with multiple tools, I used "plumber's wrench" in the end because I had the most leverage (vs. my rachet wrench)

Still the bolt is STUCK

I ordered sprays to see if I can unstuck it (WD40 did not work either)

 

[Master Hack]

Ya might try my fav, the blue wrench.

 

[Darren]

Needs an ugga-dugga Kevin Talbot Phrase! Just look on youtube

 

[panchothedog]

Take A Dremel tool, with a small diameter cut off wheel and slice the nut open on two opposing sides ( parallel with the corners ). You might gum up the threads a little bit, but they are very easy to control. Run a nut up and down it afterwards a few times and you'll be good to go.

 

[panchothedog]

Make one of the cuts over the key way and you just eliminate half the possibility of hurting the threads.

 

[Denny]

Or just use an impact as suggested earlier. Make sure the threads are not reversed first.

 

[Echo_Pulse]

Or just use an impact as suggested earlier. Make sure the threads are not reversed first.

The reversed Threads is an interesting concept.
I will check!!!

Otherwise, yes, the planC is to use a tool to cut the mf in 2

 

[gokartdave]

This harbor freight tool has lots of power. You might want to invest in. Has worked great for me.

 

[panchothedog]

Nice to see someone doing it the right way, with the right tools. Good for you.

 

[johndeerebones]

Chinesium is notorious for left hand threads. IE not righty tighty.

 

[Echo_Pulse]

In the end I cut the bolt.
The jackshaft was not in a good shape: I bought a new kit with a new jackshaft and secondary clutch.

now I have another issue: it is VERY difficult to slide in the clutch part on the jackshaft.
I will try to put the shaft in the freezer overnight to see if it helps, but past the bolt thread, it doesn’t slide in easily at all.

 

[Master Hack]

Check for burrs on yer shaft and in the clutch bore. Clean both with emory and solvent, not necessarily in that order. Tight is good. Loose fit parts run out and cause problems.
Freezing is a good idea. Heat on the opposite part makes it even mo bedder

 

[panchothedog]

Having to sand and de-burr these parts is Parr for the course. The entry edge of any interior bore ( hole) as well as the slot where the key way is cut. Remember where this stuff comes from. Quality control and finish work ( like de-burring) are non existent. They leave that for you to do.

 

[Echo_Pulse]

Having to sand and de-burr these parts is Parr for the course. The entry edge of any interior bore ( hole) as well as the slot where the key way is cut. Remember where this stuff comes from. Quality control and finish work ( like de-burring) are non existent. They leave that for you to do.

Thanks a ton. Great insight.

I will do the prep work!!

 

[Echo_Pulse]

So, I did the work and it helped.
Then I got stuck with the bolts… and I realized that the go kart uses metric and not SAE for the jackshaft.

This is also why the previous nut was stuck: they used 5/8 nuts (15.876 mm) which is just a hair smaller than 16mm
So it “fits” if you really force it but you destroy the threads and basically lock it to oblivion

I found 16mm nuts and now it fits perfectly.

So, thanks a lot guys!!! I learnt a lot.