Best Chain Suggestions

[JTSpeedDemon]

So I've been using cheap Chinese half links for awhile, and they keep failing.
I think it's the imperfect chain alignment, and I think this engine makes too much power for these half links.(not a bad problem, if ya ask me)
The heavy duty tiller chain has been working well for me, but I don't know what brand it is.

So from y'all's experience, where can I get the best chain half links?

I like the idea of RLV's new Reaper chain, but I don't know how well it would hold up, and since it's gold on black, I'd have to change out the whole chain. And I haven't found Reaper half links.
The heavy duty tiller chain on there now that I like is a grayish black, so color matching would be a nice bonus, but not mandatory.

 

[pearl111]

I was looking for the same thing. Go to OMW type in chain link take your time looking at each page. I found the reg. kind and they have nickel plated and stainless steal. good luck.

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

You mean the tiller chain? Got a link?

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

C'mon guys! I want my kart back on the road! I need suggestions!

 

[Texan]

Why do you want to continue using a Half Link? Those are usually a last resort kinda thing. Will a full Master Link not work, as in you have no more Engine adjustment left?

If that's the case, you should just buy a new chain and not use a Half Link.

General duty chain should be just fine, like from Tractor Supply or Northern Tool.

If you really want quality chain, look into RK Chain, D.I.D. or Renthal. I just installed a RK Gold Heavy Duty chain on one of my Honda Mini Trail bikes and it looks and feels like it was worth the $10-15 extra cost compared to generic chain.

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

I would, but the remaining roll hoop post prevents me from adjusting the engine.
The engine is actually BEHIND the rear axle, since that's how the PO goobered it. So if I move the engine forward, it actually loosens the chain, further compromising the PTO shaft to tire clearance. There is a groove worn in the tire sidewall from the e clip that used to be on there. Yeah, it's that close.
So yeah, I kinda have to use a half link. I'll try to find one that is made in America, though.

 

[Texan]

You don't HAVE to, you are choosing to. I'm sure you can figure out how to gain the whole extra 1/2" a Master Link will add.

"I think it's the imperfect chain alignment" ....hmmm, I'd start there first....

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

Well that's the weird thing. The goofed up alignment is due to the bent axle(can't fix at the moment), but the chain stays on just fine, even at 38 MPH. It's always the half link that fails. I think what happened here is that the cotter pin fell out, allowing the pin link to back out.
So I think when I gunned it going up the hill, only one part of the half link was transmitting all the power, while at the same time screwing up the chain alignment.

It always seems to be the cotter pin that shears/falls out, so I'll get some general duty half links, and if I have the same problem, I'll try drilling out the hole slightly to fit a thicker, stronger cotter pin.

 

[cavfire]

I'm using a half link right now on a 420cc with no problems, but instead of using the cotter pin I welded the large pin on both sides of the half link. Worth trying if you have to use a half link.

 

[JTSpeedDemon]

That would make it pretty permanent! I don't have a welder, but I suppose soldering would serve the same purpose, plus being easier to remove.
I'm going to be at the hardware store soon, I'll see what they have in the way of half links. It may just be that the Chinese ones are crap, and the other ones will work fine. Dunno.

If I get to my wit's end and I can't do much else, I'll probably just use my chain tool and eliminate the half link/master link entirely, with the entire chain being uniform. We'll see. It would at least be extra reliable.

 

[pearl111]

JT. OMW. has chain links for almost every kind of chain. You can also call them they can help you I'm sure.