arc or mig

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Kenny_McCormic

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7018 is low hydrogen, stuff ending in 4 (7014, 7024)is whats called a "drag rod" the flux burns slower than the metal is transferred putting the steel in the bottom of a funnel of flux. This cone holds the rod at proper distance.
 

SpyGuy

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I just recently picked up one of those Harbor Freight fluxcore welders (Chicago Electric, 90-amp 120v), and am still doing practice runs with it. Right now I'm limited to what I can use, but the little 90-amp is a good little machine to learn on. Takes some getting used to, but I actually managed to weld a couple of pieces together the first day I had it. And I can get all the old bicycle frames and rims and parts that I could ever want or use .......
 

stephenm2682

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what rod would you recommend for steel 2.5mm? tried a 6013 today not sure about its thickness(how do i find out?) couldnt get it started it kept sticking, went to a 2.5 or 3mm rod at 80amp started fine just burnt a hole? cheers everyone for the help
 

Kenny_McCormic

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Im worthless when it comes to the the metric system, rod size will be on the package it came from. if its sticking you are holding it too close or not enough amps.
 

r_chez_08

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i have discovered it sticks if a bit of flux from the end of the stick, if this is the problem, attach the welder to some scrap steel, and at a 45 degree angle quickly run the stick across, until the stick is bac down to the flux.
 

eesakiwi

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I'm talking 7013 Low Hydrogen rods here.

Yep, smacking it on the floor (concrete) works well (actually, just brush it against the floor).
If the flux has broken back up the rod a bit you will find it **** hard to get it started again.
Thats when you need a bit of scrapmetal to burn/flare all the exposed rod off onto.

I got some (x7) 6013 rods a few days ago just to see what it was like again. And to get familiar with the rods you are using.

Boy oh boy, I would NEVER buy a 60xx series rod again as long as I live...
They are just as hard to start as a 70xx rod,
you need a huge length of arc,
the distance has to be consistant,
you don't know if the weld has bridged a gap untill you chip off the flux,
its as hot as hell,
it heats up a lot more metal around the weld,
thru the lens theres no colour difference between molten weld metal & flux,
you have to wait ages before it cools down
& again before you can lift your helmet, arhhh! bright eyes, burning with fire!
do a big fat weld & watch as the tubing burns thru...
theres no obvious 'cleaning action' by the arc
so theres no point in weaving the rod as you go..
you can get a 'tingle' off the moist rod, yuk yuk ****!

I have a project thats using heavy plate & I will use the rods up on this.
But I go to a handyman store yesterday & the only rods they have are 60xx series, no wonder most people can't weld...

I can bridge a 10mm gap with a 70xx series rod, just keep welding one one side, then the other, back again when the metals cooled, & back again & again, until theres a bridge of metal across the gap & I can see when theres a proper electrical connection between the metals (at that point theres a physical connection that will take a certain amount of weight/stress)

Go E7013 (56s) all the way!!!
 

fluxcored

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eesakiwi, I had a good laugh reading your post.:roflol:

I do a lot of 6013 and I must admit that its a s:censored: e rod to start out with.

It has got a lot of slag.

If it was'nt so cheap - I would'nt have bothered.

It's a ........ character building rod!! ;) ;)
 

brendonv

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MIG FTW!!! If u got the money to spend get a 180-200A MIG, u will never hav to but one ever again. It will last u a live time and u can get real good welds within minutes. Stick welding and arc takes lots and lots of practice to get right, im talking years. So go with a little mig if u got the money, if not even a flux core welder will work.
 

stephenm2682

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already bought the stick welder about 4wks ago. and mig is out of budget and cant store the gas anyway.
 
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