I'm talking 7013 Low Hydrogen rods here.
Yep, smacking it on the floor (concrete) works well (actually, just brush it against the floor).
If the flux has broken back up the rod a bit you will find it **** hard to get it started again.
Thats when you need a bit of scrapmetal to burn/flare all the exposed rod off onto.
I got some (x7) 6013 rods a few days ago just to see what it was like again. And to get familiar with the rods you are using.
Boy oh boy, I would NEVER buy a 60xx series rod again as long as I live...
They are just as hard to start as a 70xx rod,
you need a huge length of arc,
the distance has to be consistant,
you don't know if the weld has bridged a gap untill you chip off the flux,
its as hot as hell,
it heats up a lot more metal around the weld,
thru the lens theres no colour difference between molten weld metal & flux,
you have to wait ages before it cools down
& again before you can lift your helmet, arhhh! bright eyes, burning with fire!
do a big fat weld & watch as the tubing burns thru...
theres no obvious 'cleaning action' by the arc
so theres no point in weaving the rod as you go..
you can get a 'tingle' off the moist rod, yuk yuk ****!
I have a project thats using heavy plate & I will use the rods up on this.
But I go to a handyman store yesterday & the only rods they have are 60xx series, no wonder most people can't weld...
I can bridge a 10mm gap with a 70xx series rod, just keep welding one one side, then the other, back again when the metals cooled, & back again & again, until theres a bridge of metal across the gap & I can see when theres a proper electrical connection between the metals (at that point theres a physical connection that will take a certain amount of weight/stress)
Go E7013 (56s) all the way!!!