arc or mig
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stephenm2682
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they came with it. you recommend 6010 or 6011 then?
stephenm2682
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right silly question, can you touch a welding rod while you weld for steadying it?
on the info it has all rod sizes & ampage but underneath it says NC & NH whats this? how do i find if its AC or DC
thanks
on the info it has all rod sizes & ampage but underneath it says NC & NH whats this? how do i find if its AC or DC
thanks
6010 and 6011 have a little bit deeper penetraion but I think you will be fine with 6013. I was just curious.
And yes you can touch the welding rods. In most cases you wont be grounded to your work or machine. Even in the event you are, theres absolutely nothing to fear as long as you are wearing good dry gloves, and have dry hands. Try touching it without gloves hehe, its only a nice little shock.
And yes you can touch the welding rods. In most cases you wont be grounded to your work or machine. Even in the event you are, theres absolutely nothing to fear as long as you are wearing good dry gloves, and have dry hands. Try touching it without gloves hehe, its only a nice little shock.
modelengineer
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Does it shock you through the flux on the rod? I would have thought you could only shock yourself if you touched the end of it, where the metal is exposed.
Have you got problems steadying the rod? I found touching it screws up things more than it helps. I rather try to steady myself - my whole body - by leaning against a wall or table. Breathing rythmically at a steady pace also helps a bit.
But ja, sometimes I do hold the rod - again just doing whatever to get the job done. Beware tho - things do heat up when you weld.
Sorry, I'm not too clued up about the different classes and types of rods anymore.
stephenm2682
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fluxcored, it depends how many drinks i've had the night before.
i wont be grounded to the work? that mean i wont have earth clamp on the piece im welding? how do you get an arc then
i wont be grounded to the work? that mean i wont have earth clamp on the piece im welding? how do you get an arc then
You must have the earth clamp on the welding piece or table - of course.
Leaning against the table or piece, touching it or the rod while you're welding is fine.
But take the normal safety precautions. Remove jewelry and ensure your gloves are not wet or any exposed skin is touching the workpiece or table.
Leaning against the table or piece, touching it or the rod while you're welding is fine.
But take the normal safety precautions. Remove jewelry and ensure your gloves are not wet or any exposed skin is touching the workpiece or table.
stephenm2682
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anyone else know what nc & nh mean? how do i know if its ac or dc.
tried starting arc today by tapping it but kept getting it stuck, not enough or 2 much amps?? striking like a match worked better though
whats better when welding, using a weave or stay in a straight line?
tried starting arc today by tapping it but kept getting it stuck, not enough or 2 much amps?? striking like a match worked better though
whats better when welding, using a weave or stay in a straight line?
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stephenm2682
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help
Kenny_McCormic
Kartless....
Should be on the box for AC/DC, its also part of the 4 digit ID #
http://www.jeep-l.net/info_jeep/weld_rod.htm
Typical arc welding rod has a part number like: E6010 or a fancy one is E8018-B1-H4R.
Let's start by decoding the short one. If you have digits left over, it's a long number, read on.
This can be decoded fairly easily.
E stands for "Electrode"
The first two digits (or first 3 if it's a 5-digit number) are an abbreviation of the weld's strength. To figure out the strength of the weld, take the 2 digits, in this case 60, and multiply by 1000 to get the weld strength in PSI.
So if you had welded two plates together, with the weld covering one square inch (or even 1/4" x 4" : that's still one square inch) that weld could take 60,000 pounts of pulling force.
Typical vales are 60,70,80,90,100,110.
The 3rd digit tells you what position the rod is recommended for.
1 : Flat, Horizontal, Vertical, Overhead.
2 : Flat and Horizontal only.
3 : Flat, Horizontal, Vertical Down, Overhead.
The last digit tells you about welding current and the coating.
1 : DC:ROD+ ................... cellulose sodium
2 : AC or DC:ROD+ or DC:ROD- .. cellulose potassium
3 : AC or DC:ROD- ............. titania sodium
4 : AC or DC:ROD- or DC:ROD+ .. iron powder titania
5 : DC:ROD+ ................... low hydrogen sodium
6 : AC or DC:ROD+ ............. low hydrogen potassium
7 : AC or DC:ROD+ or DC:ROD- .. iron powder iron oxide
8 : AC or DC:ROD+ ............. iron powder low hydrogen
You probably don't need to worry much about the coating.
I have in my notes, but don't remeber where I read it, that having the rod + will give deeper penetration, and the rod - will give faster deposition.
If there is a letter and number combination next, it relates to the chemical composition of the weld deposit.
A1 0.5%Mo
B1 0.5%Cr 0.5%Mo
B2 1.25%Cr 0.5%Mo
B3 2.25%Cr 1%Mo
C1 2.5%Ni
C2 3.25%Ni
C3 1%Ni 0.15%Cr 0.35%Mo
D1 0.25-0.45%Mo 1.25-2%Mn
D2 0.25-0.45%Mo 1.25-2%Mn
G* 0.5%Ni >0.3%Cr >0.2%Mo >0.1%V
* (G only needs one of the elements listed)
Next part is a H#. This relates to the maximum amount of hydrogen that will be diffused from the rod.
A trailing R means that the rod is moisture resistant.
http://www.jeep-l.net/info_jeep/weld_rod.htm
Typical arc welding rod has a part number like: E6010 or a fancy one is E8018-B1-H4R.
Let's start by decoding the short one. If you have digits left over, it's a long number, read on.
This can be decoded fairly easily.
E stands for "Electrode"
The first two digits (or first 3 if it's a 5-digit number) are an abbreviation of the weld's strength. To figure out the strength of the weld, take the 2 digits, in this case 60, and multiply by 1000 to get the weld strength in PSI.
So if you had welded two plates together, with the weld covering one square inch (or even 1/4" x 4" : that's still one square inch) that weld could take 60,000 pounts of pulling force.
Typical vales are 60,70,80,90,100,110.
The 3rd digit tells you what position the rod is recommended for.
1 : Flat, Horizontal, Vertical, Overhead.
2 : Flat and Horizontal only.
3 : Flat, Horizontal, Vertical Down, Overhead.
The last digit tells you about welding current and the coating.
1 : DC:ROD+ ................... cellulose sodium
2 : AC or DC:ROD+ or DC:ROD- .. cellulose potassium
3 : AC or DC:ROD- ............. titania sodium
4 : AC or DC:ROD- or DC:ROD+ .. iron powder titania
5 : DC:ROD+ ................... low hydrogen sodium
6 : AC or DC:ROD+ ............. low hydrogen potassium
7 : AC or DC:ROD+ or DC:ROD- .. iron powder iron oxide
8 : AC or DC:ROD+ ............. iron powder low hydrogen
You probably don't need to worry much about the coating.
I have in my notes, but don't remeber where I read it, that having the rod + will give deeper penetration, and the rod - will give faster deposition.
If there is a letter and number combination next, it relates to the chemical composition of the weld deposit.
A1 0.5%Mo
B1 0.5%Cr 0.5%Mo
B2 1.25%Cr 0.5%Mo
B3 2.25%Cr 1%Mo
C1 2.5%Ni
C2 3.25%Ni
C3 1%Ni 0.15%Cr 0.35%Mo
D1 0.25-0.45%Mo 1.25-2%Mn
D2 0.25-0.45%Mo 1.25-2%Mn
G* 0.5%Ni >0.3%Cr >0.2%Mo >0.1%V
* (G only needs one of the elements listed)
Next part is a H#. This relates to the maximum amount of hydrogen that will be diffused from the rod.
A trailing R means that the rod is moisture resistant.
stephenm2682
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thanks kenny. can you tell me why the rod stick when i tap it to start an arc? and what method is best a weave or straight line bead?
stephenm2682
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e6013 rods, 2mm.
modelengineer
Lord of the noise
Most people, when they start welding, go too fast. Slow down.
stephenm2682
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im asking if i should weave the rod or go in straight line
Weave is normally good for thicker - straight line for thinner material. Why? - weave puts more heat into the metal. So if you do a kart you can opt for straight line - less heat, less warpage you have to contend with.
But all rulez are made to be broken - I often weave on thin material but then do very short welds at a time to counteract heat/warpage.
Also where I can't see too good, I weave - better chance of hitting the joint that way than going straight.
I regard less than 0.20" (5mm) as thin but that's just me..
But all rulez are made to be broken - I often weave on thin material but then do very short welds at a time to counteract heat/warpage.
Also where I can't see too good, I weave - better chance of hitting the joint that way than going straight.
I regard less than 0.20" (5mm) as thin but that's just me..
Don't worry too much about getting electrocuted.
As long as you don't touch the rods metal centre & the ground (whatever you attached the earth clamp too) you won't get a shock.
Its a definate shock but a bit less than painfull.
A good 'Buzz' & you drop whatever you are holding.
You won't get a shock thru the rods flux coating.
When learning it may be easyer to hold the rod with your left hand to direct it a bit, at the start.
Don't get in the habit of doing that though.
Have your welder set to 80amps (too high, but easy to start with) for your 2.5mm electrode.
Steady your body when you are setting up to weld (I'm guessing you are just practising), steady your arms & knees & prefferably your elbows.
Scratch the rod across the test plate (just like you do with a matchstick) aiming for the rod tip to be just above the metal where you want to start.
Keep the arc long for a few seconds before starting your run.
If it dosen't arc, check the end of the rod, if the flux is sticking out past the rod (without touching the earth!) break off a little of the protuding flux to bare the end of the rod.
If it sticks, bend the rod at the arc end, side to side, while pulling so it breaks off.
You want the amount of metal deposited in the run to be about twice as much as the metal in the same length as the rod has. uh..? even I don't understand that!
Using a 250mm long rod you should get about 125mm of weld out of it.
There, thats easyer to understand..
(While using low hydrogen rods, you can push the rod against the work & then twist the rod & it can break off at the tip.
This is a tip I got from a very good welder, probably the best tip I ever got.
Its only good if you use Low Hydrogen rods & you do a lot of welding)
Ah, 6013 rods. They like a long arc & thicker metal, also downhand.
Long arc,} they are not a 'contact rod' there has to be a good arc run between the rods tip & the work metal. I think its harder to do that than just using a higher grade 7013 (low Hydrogen) rod with the flux actually contacting the work metal.
Thicker metal,} Welding this sort of rod (general purpose) uses a long arc & higher amperages.
long arc = hotter metal &
higher amperages = hotter metal
Hotter metal equals easyer for the molten metal to jump the arc to the work metal.
Also Hotter arc makes it easyer to burn off any coating (rust, paint, Galv metal) & bring out cleaner metal to weld too.
Downhand} the 6013 rods are general purpose rods with metal in the flux, this adds to the heat made in the arc & the depositation of weld metal.
But having metal in the flux will 'short out' the arc in any position except downhand.
As long as you don't touch the rods metal centre & the ground (whatever you attached the earth clamp too) you won't get a shock.
Its a definate shock but a bit less than painfull.
A good 'Buzz' & you drop whatever you are holding.
You won't get a shock thru the rods flux coating.
When learning it may be easyer to hold the rod with your left hand to direct it a bit, at the start.
Don't get in the habit of doing that though.
Have your welder set to 80amps (too high, but easy to start with) for your 2.5mm electrode.
Steady your body when you are setting up to weld (I'm guessing you are just practising), steady your arms & knees & prefferably your elbows.
Scratch the rod across the test plate (just like you do with a matchstick) aiming for the rod tip to be just above the metal where you want to start.
Keep the arc long for a few seconds before starting your run.
If it dosen't arc, check the end of the rod, if the flux is sticking out past the rod (without touching the earth!) break off a little of the protuding flux to bare the end of the rod.
If it sticks, bend the rod at the arc end, side to side, while pulling so it breaks off.
You want the amount of metal deposited in the run to be about twice as much as the metal in the same length as the rod has. uh..? even I don't understand that!
Using a 250mm long rod you should get about 125mm of weld out of it.
There, thats easyer to understand..
(While using low hydrogen rods, you can push the rod against the work & then twist the rod & it can break off at the tip.
This is a tip I got from a very good welder, probably the best tip I ever got.
Its only good if you use Low Hydrogen rods & you do a lot of welding)
Ah, 6013 rods. They like a long arc & thicker metal, also downhand.
Long arc,} they are not a 'contact rod' there has to be a good arc run between the rods tip & the work metal. I think its harder to do that than just using a higher grade 7013 (low Hydrogen) rod with the flux actually contacting the work metal.
Thicker metal,} Welding this sort of rod (general purpose) uses a long arc & higher amperages.
long arc = hotter metal &
higher amperages = hotter metal
Hotter metal equals easyer for the molten metal to jump the arc to the work metal.
Also Hotter arc makes it easyer to burn off any coating (rust, paint, Galv metal) & bring out cleaner metal to weld too.
Downhand} the 6013 rods are general purpose rods with metal in the flux, this adds to the heat made in the arc & the depositation of weld metal.
But having metal in the flux will 'short out' the arc in any position except downhand.
stephenm2682
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thanks but you lost me, lol
so for 6013 rods i keep about a 1/8" gap & with 7013 i can drag it along the metal? i thought you can weld in any position with a 6013 rod but prefer 45 degree.
so for 6013 rods i keep about a 1/8" gap & with 7013 i can drag it along the metal? i thought you can weld in any position with a 6013 rod but prefer 45 degree.
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