Arachnid Build, ... or is it! (Highly Modified)

[Bill CNC]

Theo,

This is the only language for the suspension, and this is a quote;

"A note on the suspension... The suspension I have shown here in the plans is a bit advanced and you will have to set your alignment toe just as you would have to do with a car. So make sure to spend the time to do this after you are done with your kart"

 

[theo]

Bill, if you look at your spindles from the side, does the top lean back or are they straight up and down?

 

[Bill CNC]

Theo,

Oh, I see, ... Yes, then their is camber. The upper A-arms are set back .5" from the lower A-arm.

Hey, ... did you see what I was thinking about the rear end drive line?

What do you think?

 

[Bill CNC]

Here is a frontal shot, everything now looks parallel.

 

[Bill CNC]

here is the videos I took this morning. No bumpsteer.

Just click on the picture to watch the videos.

 

[Sleepy122CID]

Theo,

Oh, I see, ... Yes, then their is camber. The upper A-arms are set back .5" from the lower A-arm.

Hey, ... did you see what I was thinking about the rear end drive line?

What do you think?

This picture actually shows the caster angle. The camber angle is the top of the wheel tilting in/out... I don't know much about suspended kart alignments, but you probably want to check the camber throughout the range of the suspension. You probably don't ever want to see positive camber (top of wheel further out than bottom of wheel), or too much negative camber when suspension is bottomed out.s

 

[theo]

I'm glad that they have added caster. Now you have to add ackerman.

With those a arms, I don't think you are going to have a camber change. You could add in 1 or 2 deg of neg. camber and that will stay all the way through the travel.

 

[Bill CNC]

Sleepy,

The Camber and Caster, ... I mixed them up.

Theo,

It appears to be level throughout it full travel already, isn't that what the ultimate goal is?

 

[Bill CNC]

Well I have been welding and grinding all day. The Suspension Block, A-arms, Bushings and mounts were all tacked together to check all the parts and alignment. It is a real challenge to finish all the welding. Man there is a lot.

I had a couple of issues with shrinkage and the parts moved around a little bit that their was some binding on the bushings. So after the Suspension block and the A-arms were fully welded, I ground the tack welds holding the Bushings off the A-arms and the Mounts off the Suspension Block. I am now re-welding the Bushings back to the A-arms. After that, I will install the Mounts to the A-arms and then weld the Mounts to the Suspension Block.

Boy I wonder what my electric bill will be this month! ut:

Bill

 

[theo]

Ya, 0 caster change is ok, but if you were going to build your own suspension go with 0 at full droop and maybe 2 or 3 at full compression, now this is on something like your set up.

 

[The_Machine]

You asked about rear independent suspension. Here's a rear hub I quickly modeled up in sketchup. It uses 2x 1" flange bearings to keep the wheel from pivoting on the pivoting bearings. The extra mounting hole is for a toe control arm for adjusting toe since this design is for heim joints which will allow the hub to pivot just like a front spindle. You can alter the design to use bushings easily, which will eliminate the need for the toe bar. The mounting holes are 2.5 inches from the outer edge of the bearing because that is half the length of my universal joints, which puts the pivot points in line. I use universal joints because I am using an engine that is within the limits of the easily accessible ones at surpluscenter or mcmaster-carr. CV joints you may need unless you can get some heavy duty halfshafts off an old datsun or something for that 500cc you have planned. Because you don't need to fabricate or buy hubs that will mate your CV joints and because of price and convenience I like to use 1" bore universal joints.

 

[dpaxson]

how do you plan on attaching that bearing carrier you made to the wishbones?

 

[The_Machine]

Heim joints all over the page, as well as my post.

 

[dpaxson]

i'm so sorry you had to take 2 seconds to type that post. it must have been such a huge effort. since when did we have such a$$ holes on this forum. i didn't realize you had drawn the hub sideways so i didn't understand how you planned on mounting it with heim joints.

 

[Bill CNC]

Hey Guy's,

I'm still here. I have been welding up the front end and I should be done with it tomorrow evening. The plan is to get all the welds cleaned up, filler added and spray primer on all the parts I constructed. This will keep it from rusting until the rest of the cart is built. I plan on making the cart in three sections. Front, middle and rear and when it comes time for it to all come together, I only need to sand off the primer were the welds are needed.

The middle is next. I have the seat on it's way and I will lay out the middle section as soon as it arrives.

The Machine,

I like the sketch-up drawing you posted. It sounds like something I could use. I need to climb under my Geo Metro and look at the rear knuckles and see how they were attached as my mind is blank right now. The only thing that is a little sketchy right now is how all the actual drive line parts will workout. I am still unsure of what is needed.

Thanks
Bill

 

[The_Machine]

McPherson strut and ball joints? Geo Metro standard transmission is fantastic on gas mileage, but I was driving the 3 cyl up a hill once with trash in the back and it wouldn't go over 40 If money is not an issue, you shouldn't have any problems on the build with CV joints.

PM me your email address and i'll send some good stuff your way.

 

[Silvergrizz]

Hey Guy's,

I'm still here. I have been welding up the front end and I should be done with it tomorrow evening. The plan is to get all the welds cleaned up, filler added and spray primer on all the parts I constructed. This will keep it from rusting until the rest of the cart is built. I plan on making the cart in three sections. Front, middle and rear and when it comes time for it to all come together, I only need to sand off the primer were the welds are needed.

Thanks
Bill

Bill, I don't know what type of primer you are planning on using, but you mentioned earlier in your thread that you basically building a mini sand rail. I would think that driving that around would be like putting it in a sandblaster and you need one tuff paint. Check these guys out. great product, use it on my boat

http://www.porcan.com/usa/index.htm

 

[Bill CNC]

McPherson strut and ball joints? Geo Metro standard transmission is fantastic on gas mileage, but I was driving the 3 cyl up a hill once with trash in the back and it wouldn't go over 40 If money is not an issue, you shouldn't have any problems on the build with CV joints.

PM me your email address and i'll send some good stuff your way.

Machine,

First off I meant to say the front steering knuckles. I wont use the struts, ... I just think I could use the bearing mounts that it provides. It would be a natural fit for the CV's. at the wheel end of the project. The parts that go to the motor, ... well so far I am stumped. I will be seriously looking at my options this weekend. My goal is to have it figured out, well at least theoretically.

I would very much welcome any ideas you have, PM sent.

Thanks Again
Bill

 

[Bill CNC]

Bill, I don't know what type of primer you are planning on using, but you mentioned earlier in your thread that you basically building a mini sand rail. I would think that driving that around would be like putting it in a sandblaster and you need one tuff paint. Check these guys out. great product, use it on my boat

http://www.porcan.com/usa/index.htm

Grizz,

Interesting stuff to say the least, ... I was just going to use "PCL 913" Primer. More than likely, I will be shooting this in Urethane paint, ... but their is a chance I just might get this powder coated. It will depend on the performance. if it's a real nice toy, ... I will sand blast it and have it powder coated, if it's just an OK toy, ... I will paint it with the Urethane.

I have tons of paint and I also have a powder coater that is extremely reasonable and most of all, ... I made him a prototype on the very cheap so he owes me BIG TIME!!!

 

[Wobbly]

My best friend in Australia has nearly finished building an Edge Piranha, and I asked him if he was going to powder coat his chassis. He said that he wouldn't, because the powder coat is quite flexible and would hide any cracks that appear in his welds.