Arachnid Build in NOLA

Status
Not open for further replies.

Austin_40

New member
Messages
48
Reaction score
0
Location
New Orleans, LA
Still undecided on the motor. If I go for a dirt bike motor, I know how to make the shift linkage work, and I think I have enough room at the front end to run a foot clutch. I still would need to figure out some sort of starter. I haven't had any luck with that so far, although I have to believe it can be done.

The industrial motor / torque converter looks like a simpler option, but I know I'd like the power of a dirt bike motor, plus I would like to have the gearbox. We'll see. I'm still on the fence.
 

HellSpawn

New member
Messages
476
Reaction score
2
Location
Wadena, Minnesota
Still undecided on the motor. If I go for a dirt bike motor, I know how to make the shift linkage work, and I think I have enough room at the front end to run a foot clutch. I still would need to figure out some sort of starter. I haven't had any luck with that so far, although I have to believe it can be done.

The industrial motor / torque converter looks like a simpler option, but I know I'd like the power of a dirt bike motor, plus I would like to have the gearbox. We'll see. I'm still on the fence.

For a kick start setup, you could always fab a shaft with female splines on one end and male splines on the other.

Run this shaft from the kick start shaft on the engine, to the outside of the kart, add some bearings for support near the end and toss the kick lever on the male end of the shaft.
 

Austin_40

New member
Messages
48
Reaction score
0
Location
New Orleans, LA
For a kick start setup, you could always fab a shaft with female splines on one end and male splines on the other.

Run this shaft from the kick start shaft on the engine, to the outside of the kart, add some bearings for support near the end and toss the kick lever on the male end of the shaft.

That's an excellent idea. Does anyone make splined shafts like that? I know shafts are sized by diameter and number of splines. Are they manufacturer specific, or is there a standard? In other words, if I had a Honda engine, would I have to go to Honda for a shaft to fit the kick start shaft, or could I source it elsewhere?
 

Austin_40

New member
Messages
48
Reaction score
0
Location
New Orleans, LA
Progress!

A-Arms built today. Building the jig was more time consuming than actually tacking the parts together, but I think it was worth it. They came out pretty uniform.







 

r97

Measure twice cut once
Messages
3,793
Reaction score
8
Location
Massachusetts, USA
may i suggest getting parts from a scrap yad vs bmi. build is looking good, :thumbsup:. those welds are making me wan't mig!(or at least a wire brush for the angle grinder to clean up my flux core welds.)
 

HellSpawn

New member
Messages
476
Reaction score
2
Location
Wadena, Minnesota
That's an excellent idea. Does anyone make splined shafts like that? I know shafts are sized by diameter and number of splines. Are they manufacturer specific, or is there a standard? In other words, if I had a Honda engine, would I have to go to Honda for a shaft to fit the kick start shaft, or could I source it elsewhere?

I'm sure you could find some splined shaft stock and use a coupler of the same size to mate the shaft to the engine's splined shaft.
 

Austin_40

New member
Messages
48
Reaction score
0
Location
New Orleans, LA
A few issues that presented themselves today:

1. The suspension block itself appears to have twisted a little while tack welding. It's visually apparent, but when I took measurements with a digital micrometer, I'm finding outages in the .020 range, which I'm surprised I could actually see. I'm not too worried about it at the moment, but...

2. All assembled, the caster angle is obviously not consistent on both sides. The left side is visually steeper than the right. I think I can fix this by cutting one of the a-arms loose from it's bushings and re-welding it in the correct location. The question is though: what is the appropriate caster angle?

3. The nuts for the bolts fastening the upper a-arms to the block are going to foul the main frame. IIRC, this was discovered by SilverGrizz in his build. Should be easy enough to fix with shorter nuts.

4. Using the spindles from BMI, there is clearly no ackerman steering. I'm not sure if this is a big deal or not, just an observation.

5. I need to get cone washers/spacers for the spindles to make the spindle height match the spacing between the a-arm pivots at the suspension block. By my math, I need an additional 1/2" both above and below each spindle to make the geometry work.

On a positive note... I did increase the width of the suspension block to 6" as noted in BillCNC's build thread, and the steering rack I purchased from DesertKarts fits perfectly with the rod ends aligned between the a-arm pivots.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Top