Anyone ever hear about a frazer-nash gokart

[voided]

This kart is electric. Sitting without any batteries and wondering how many I might need to test the workings.. so far I currently don’t have any pictures, specs or anything to work off of.. I’m kinda in the dark..

Only thing I have to go by is it looks exactly like the picture..

Old guy doesn’t know much, but will schedule a time for me to go over and look at it.

Anyone at all have any information?

 

[Functional Artist]

Sorry, I never heard of one
...but, it looks really kool

If going to check it out, I would take (4) 12V batteries for a 48V system
...or maybe (5) if it happens to be 60V

When you get there, first check for labels
...around the battery box (there should be a label on/near it)
...on the dash or around the charge port.

Electrical stuff, especially factory built
...usually have lots of labels.

But, in the absence of labels or if your not sure, please don't just start hookin' stuff up.
...when in doubt, get more info

Keep us posted
…& share lots of pics

 

[voided]

That was my plan, 12, 24,36,48 until I get some feedback from controller.. my main concern is the controller.

Just shocked to not be able to find anything out about the actual gokart. Even Fraser-Nash only show the picture above..

 

[Quinc]

I would buy it as the kart only and expect to replace everything electrical. I haven't seen any factory made karts more then 36v. the motor should also have some info as far as voltage/watts.

---------- Post added at 07:30 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:28 PM ----------

I bet if you contacted the company who made it they would give you some info.
https://frazer-nash.com/

 

[itsid]

hm british sports cars of the thirties and fourties... yes
an electric go kart... NOPE??

Anyways.. I disagree..

going by their website (development of EV systems incl motors, controllers and batpacks)
and the claim that the kart was their first such -let's call it- development platform

I'd say we look at some 72V ++ system (likely AC even)

do NOT apply voltages to receptacles you don't know anything about, chances are you will render the electronics useless.

There is a right way to fix that (it will be tedious and sometimes even brain twisting perhaps)

usually you can tell how the batteries were connected and with that and just a single such battery you can make a good assumption about the batpack voltage right..

Now see if there's some sort of converter present, or if there's a suspicious empty spot where one sat twenty odd years ago.

Wire gauge gives you a good idea about what power can be transmitted safely

And the motor itself certainly knows what kind of power it wants if it's AC or DC and what kind of currents it can withstand.

contacting frazer nash directly is certainly the best bet..
but chances are you won't get any response (doesn't look like an active company website to me.. I hope I'm wrong)

You need to make assumptions on your way, but be very careful with such assumptions.
if they're wrong, you can fry a perfectly good part.
So test with the least force.
rather split the controller box open and get the info from the actual circuit.

'sid

 

[Quinc]

Also take and post a ton of pictures when you go look at it!

I did find one forum post where a guy said it was scary fast when he drove one.

 

[voided]

Going to get it tomorrow (as of plans right now) ... don’t wanna get my hopes up.. seller claims it was put away working and had a large charger that was to strong for his car battery.. the charger was left outside and someone swiped it.. not being able to get any information from the company (same problem I have) he pushed it to the back of the garage and let it sit..

 

[Quinc]

Going to get it tomorrow (as of plans right now) ... don’t wanna get my hopes up.. seller claims it was put away working and had a large charger that was to strong for his car battery.. the charger was left outside and someone swiped it.. not being able to get any information from the company (same problem I have) he pushed it to the back of the garage and let it sit..

Looking forward to seeing what you find out about it. The little info I did find looks like it was ahead of its time and scary fast.

 

[voided]

Me too... currently halfway Into my build.. won’t try and touch this without doing a lot of research...

 

[Quinc]

me too... Currently halfway into my build.. Won’t try and touch this without doing a lot of research...

pprs?

 

[voided]

Yup, will be my 3rd year racing..


Here’s a before , after, and action shot..

 

[Quinc]

That is awesome! Can you post up a thread for that build too? I have been wanting to do it but will only be able to make the California race.

 

[voided]

It was on here.. a member here was the only one that simplified the wiring and got it working..

I only race New York.. I look forward to each year the ride home from the one we just raced.. sourcing good batteries and a bullet proof setup is key.. I swear by the 48v 1800w brushless setup.. I run Ford C-Max batteries and have no problem with them.. I do need 30-40ah to podium in the endurance as long as nothing major goes wrong..

10ah per sprint was sufficient for the sprints and relays.. charging between races is a must..


As for the electric kart I got blown off today.. seller never sent me an address .. no call, no text, no notifications... just hope I can get it. I’m really interested in driving it..

 

[Quinc]

It was on here.. a member here was the only one that simplified the wiring and got it working..

I only race New York.. I look forward to each year the ride home from the one we just raced.. sourcing good batteries and a bullet proof setup is key.. I swear by the 48v 1800w brushless setup.. I run Ford C-Max batteries and have no problem with them.. I do need 30-40ah to podium in the endurance as long as nothing major goes wrong..

10ah per sprint was sufficient for the sprints and relays.. charging between races is a must..


As for the electric kart I got blown off today.. seller never sent me an address .. no call, no text, no notifications... just hope I can get it. I’m really interested in driving it..

Good to hear, I am going to use the 48v1800w setup with my mx. How much do Ford C batteries cost? I am looking at picking up a 48v leaf pack for $365 from a guy on the pprs fb page.

 

[voided]

The leaf packs pack more ah then the cmax batteries..

Cmax can be had for less tho.. alil more versatile when building a pack and alil easier to use because their single cells.. I have the 5000mah once.. you can get 20ah cells out of the energi models which are alil thicker then the ones I’m using..

Just make sure you balance charge them ..


This pack is one of 2 that come out of a base Ford C-Max.. I picked the whole pack up for 250 which is 76 cells.

 

[voided]

Well, well, well.... I was finally able to pick it up.

After further inspection it’s 72v, twin motor, individual drive axles , twin brakes. Single throttle.

Everything is there except for throttle cable and batteries .. serial 006. From what a few people told me I may have found and acquired a very rare item. My goal is to rebuild and ride it ... I’d love to feel what this thing has to offer with some lithium power..

I gotta put it back together since it didn’t fit in my suv. But here are some naked pics to hold you guys over..

 

[itsid]

Uh I hate poti throttles..
Anyways.. great katr you got there..

I hear it was quite a blast ... I hope you can get it to be just that again.
You still have the body kit right?
(otherwise it'd be difficutl to replicate the original look)

Anyways
One or two things you should be aware of howevre:

If you power it with Lithium cells (which is in fact a good idea if you can acquire a large enough pack IMHO)
Make sure to not charge it via the onboard controller,
Chances are it's not set up for modern day Lithium cells but at best the olden ones.
And the charging circuit embedded into the motor controller (in case there is any in the first place)
might not be up for the task

Second: be sure to check all wiring THOROUGHLY!
a 72V system (especially since those are DC motors)
will pack quite a punch and a few hundred milliamps are enough to kill you in an instant
(yes MILLIamps!)
if you'e lucky the shock generated by full Amps keeps you alive (weid.. I know) but some aren't lucky in that regard.

Sooo sufficient wiring insulation is key to personal safety.
Do not take any shortcuts or risks for that matter!
Make perfectly sure all wiring is safe AND CORRECTLY INSTALLED.

a bit jealous in fact..
it looked cool and if it's as nice as the internet wants me to believe it was...
I'd love to get a chance for a lap or two;

So prepare to take good videos of you driving it, so that we can be reaaaaally jelly later on

'sid

 

[voided]

I do have the original body / wheels and seat. I will definitely proceed with caution..

As for batteries I’d run Ford C-Max cells. I can get enough to build 2 packs from one complete pack.. I’d obviously have to charge in sections less the 7s with balancing using hobby grade chargers..

 

[voided]

No matter how I take pictures on my phone they come out upside down on here.... smh

I’m sorry



Sid: as for the charging connections.. it unplugs from the controller and only powers the batteries.. the way I see it, it was wired so you couldn’t drive it plugged in.

 

[Joe-405]

I always post my pictures to Facebook and then delete off phone and resave then post to here. Seems to fix the rotation every time.