Any idea what brand bike?

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SpiderSpartan

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It looks like there's some kind of flexible coupler between the 2 rear tires. I think I might have found a blower housing for the briggs. Going to look at it today. I'm thinking maybe I'll try to flip the rear wheels to get the sprocket on the right side for the briggs to get it running and limit costs for now. Later, when I have more money, I'll upgrade to a real rear tire. Also looks like the sprockets are 41 and I have some spare 40 chain. Anyone have a wiring diagram for one of these? I'd like to try re-using some of the instruments and lights if I can figure out the wiring. Maybe even try to find a starter and ring gear for the briggs.
 

SpiderSpartan

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Looks like my 5hp engine will barely fit, if at all. I'm thinking about bending an exhaust pipe, so that will clear some room. Then modifying the air filter box would give me some more room.
 

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SpiderSpartan

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Without the air filter and exhaust it fits just right, except for the carb opening being right under a frame bar. I never thought I'd say this, but I think I need a smaller engine? I'm thinking a 3.5hp. Any suggestions?
 

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SpiderSpartan

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Well, I couldn't resist. What's the logical course of action when your engine doesn't fit under your seat? Raise the seat of course.
 

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SpiderSpartan

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Seat successfully raised (risen?). Engine fits in and out easy enough.
 

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Hellion

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Wow, I admire your tenacity. I was gonna watch you throw in the towel on that engine actually fitting in the frame and I would have supported your decision (even though I am a Briggs fan).

I just think the frame was designed around a smaller OHV engine. Flatheads are too tall because the cylinder is oriented vertically (Duh!).

Anyway, Bravo!
 

SpiderSpartan

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Hooked up the throttle and tensioner today. Seems to be working well except I need a longer bolt to double nut the tensioner bolt or a lock nut. Should be able to grab either tomorrow and take this thing for a spin.
 

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SpiderSpartan

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It looks like I may have to convert to a single wheel to get this thing running. The holes for the bolts to hold the sprocket on the hub are stripped out. This lets the driven sprocket wobble and causes the chain to jump. I'm afraid this may have to wait till spring.
 

SpiderSpartan

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I'm starting to think I just need to post problems on here for a solution to come to me. I drilled and tapped the hub holes for 1/4-20 screws to replace the stripped M10 threads. I'll drill the sprocket holes to match tomorrow and see if they hold.
 

SpiderSpartan

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New threads and bolts are holding well. I even got this thing out for a little spin. Worked pretty well considering how I quickly rigged this stuff together. Still need to work on a couple things.

  1. Could use a bigger/single rear tire
  2. Need a shorter/stronger spring on the tensioner to get better tension
  3. Need either a stiffer spring on the rear or a solid bar to keep the bike from bottoming out on my fat @$$
  4. Probably need new clutch springs if not an entire new clutch
  5. Would like to get the electronics working (Speedometer, Lights, etc)
 

SpiderSpartan

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I put a solid bar in place of the rear suspension spring. It worked pretty well. I could turn without scraping the frame. It was working well until the threads holding the rear sprocket on failed again. Maybe I'll try drilling all the way through the hub and use a nut and bolt to hold the sprocket on.
 

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SpiderSpartan

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Finally got the 2 wheel rear setup working. :wai: drilled through the hub and used long bolts with lock nuts to hold the sprocket on. I had to cut the coupler between the wheels to fit over the lock nuts. It got up to a decent speed on a long stretch of level road. I think maybe I'll keep an eye out for a bigger sprocket so I can ride it in the yard without burning up the clutch.
 

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SpiderSpartan

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I'm looking at getting a bigger sprocket for the rear wheels. What's the largest diameter sprocket you would recommend for 10 inch tires?

Right now I'm looking at a 36 tooth that's about 6 inches, leaving 2 inches for the tire to flex. I was looking at a 48 tooth that's about 8 inches, but that would leave just an inch for the tire to flex before I bottom out the sprocket and chain.
 

Poboy kartman

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I'm looking at getting a bigger sprocket for the rear wheels. What's the largest diameter sprocket you would recommend for 10 inch tires?

Right now I'm looking at a 36 tooth that's about 6 inches, leaving 2 inches for the tire to flex. I was looking at a 48 tooth that's about 8 inches, but that would leave just an inch for the tire to flex before I bottom out the sprocket and chain.

OK....So with those kinds of figures....you're running a 40/41 sprocket/chain set-up.

Ridiculous overkill for a 5 hp minibike....chunk a little more money in and go to a #35....
 

SpiderSpartan

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OK....So with those kinds of figures....you're running a 40/41 sprocket/chain set-up.

Ridiculous overkill for a 5 hp minibike....chunk a little more money in and go to a #35....

Are you saying 40/41 chain is too heavy duty for this setup? I wouldn't disagree, but I already had the clutch, chain, and sprocket. What would be the benefit of converting everything to #35 chain? In the spring I'll probably spring for a bigger tire and sprocket.
 
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