Another live axle conversion

[SpiderSpartan]

I picked up a thunder kart last weekend and I'm getting ready to convert it to live axle, but have some questions.

I plan on going with a 1" axle shaft with pillow blocks. I also plan on reusing the split rim wheels to cut costs. The wheel rims are 5", have a 2" Center hole, and a 3.5" 4 bolt circle. I know I'll have to drill a new bolt circle in the wheels.

Can I use this sprocket hub as a wheel hub?
http://www.bmikarts.com/Steel-Multi-Patterned-Sprocket-Brake-Hub-1-Bore-_p_1404.html

Or should I go with this actual wheel hub?
http://www.bmikarts.com/Galvanize-4-x-4-Wheel-Hub-1-Bore_p_1661.html

 

[chancer]

I would use the wheel hub,
But first check out GoPowerSports.com better service.
and 10% off DIYGOKARTS code

 

[SpiderSpartan]

Thanks for the suggestion and the coupon code. I ended up going with BMI simply because of costs. I'll be sure to post back here with how the service ends up and with pictures of my conversion.

Axle $15 http://www.bmikarts.com/Axle-Shaft--1-x-39-38_p_518.html
Wheel Hubs $31 http://www.bmikarts.com/Galvanize-4-x-4-Wheel-Hub-1-Bore_p_1661.html
Bearing Hanger Kit $21 http://www.bmikarts.com/1-Bearing-Kit-3-hole-_p_486.html
S&H $22

Totaling just under $90

 

[Hellion]

...S&H $22

Aye, that's where ye got taken advantage of, matey. They pillaged you on the shipping as they are known to do. I prefer not to bend over too often meself.

 

[SpiderSpartan]

I should have said S&H&tax. So about $18 for S&H doesn't seem too bad when you consider a 40" axle, 2 hubs, and the bearing kit. The $15 axle more than makes up any difference in S&H at gopowersports.com. There costs for the same package comes out to $130.

 

[Jfive]

I had good luck with both of them. I had one order with BMI so shipping wasn't bad really. Had so much stuff it was well worth it. The clearance section has so much good stuff for really low prices. I had to order 200.00 at go power sports to get the free shipping and thought code didn't work but I didn't have it in right or something cause every time since it's worked. Also had good luck with a few things from Oldminibike. I've been looking at buying two of those axles myself.

 

[SpiderSpartan]

I ordered these parts on Friday and they showed up today.
Here's what I'm working with. A little rough, but a little cleaning and a few modifications and I think it'll be a gem.

And here's the 12.5hp Kohler Commander engine, with torque converter I'm putting on there.

And here's the 1" axle, hubs, and bearing hangers I'll be using.

Wish me luck!

 

[SpiderSpartan]

Got the wheels and old engine off and test fit the new engine on the frame. It's a tight fit, but looks like it will work.
Next steps:

1. Re-inforce existing frame
2. Cut out the old, dead axle
3. Install a new engine mount
4. Drill new bolt holes in the wheels/wheel hubs
5. Install live axle

 

[Poboy kartman]

Nice! But what is poor grandma doing for a walker now?

 

[SpiderSpartan]

Here's what I'm thinking to re-enforce the frame. The black is existing frame and the blue is the modifications I'm making. I will have to cut the existing axle and engine mount to make room for the new sprocket. Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated.

 

[SpiderSpartan]

Got the new engine mount plate cut out of some scrap I had. Also drilled the new bolt holes in the wheels and mounted them on the 1" hubs. Luckily the welded side of the new hubs fit snugly in the center wheel hole making it easy to center the new bolt pattern. Next:

1. Re-enforce existing frame
2. Install a new engine mount
3. Cut out the old, dead axle
4. Install live axle

 

[SpiderSpartan]

Got the frame re-enforced today with 1" square tubing. Cut the straight joints with a cutoff wheel and used a 1" hole saw for the tube joints. Welds aren't the prettiest, but will do the job. Next:

1. Triple check the engine fit and mount placement
2. Install a new engine mount
3. Cut out the old, dead axle
4. Install live axle

 

[chancer]

Something to keep in mind. Access to the engine mount bolts on the new mount with the new re inforcing pipes. Sometimes it is a pain to get to the bolts depending on location too close to a pipe.
Looks pretty good!

 

[SpiderSpartan]

Something to keep in mind. Access to the engine mount bolts on the new mount with the new re inforcing pipes. Sometimes it is a pain to get to the bolts depending on location too close to a pipe.
Looks pretty good!

Couldn't have told me that a day earlier? Thanks for reminding me though. Today I

1. re-re-enforced the frame
2. attached the new engine mount
3. cut the ends off the dead axle
4. mounted the bearing hangers

Next:

1. mount the engine
2. cut the old axle to make room for the new sprocket location
3. weld the old break drum and sprocket to a couple weasler hubs from tractor supply
4. 

 

[Hellion]

Looking good so far. Hey, can you post an overall photo of your kart, preferably the day you bought it if possible or if one exists?

I passed over a very similar looking kart a month ago or so; same colors and everything except no seat cushions and missing a wheel if memory serves.

 

[MrC.]

Looks good. I see you like to make things. A drill and a used (small) cutoff wheel can slot those engine mount holes so you can adjust the chain slack. I want to live axle my kart but I do not want to raise it up any and use my 5 inch wheels . Did those hubs center up on the center hole? Then you just refilled them? Or did you have to drill the center hole also?

Mrc.

 

[SpiderSpartan]

Hellion - the only original picture I have before modifications is the one posted above. I'll see if the guy I got it from has any still.

Mrc - the hubs, luckily, fit nicely inside the wheel center hole so I could mark and drill the new bolt pattern in the wheels. At first I thought I would have to use a piece of conduit around the hub to keep it centered in the wheel center hole. Just had to knock the pressed bolts out of the hubs to expose the holes in the hub. This video shows how to quickly remove pressed bolts

 

[SpiderSpartan]

Out of curiosity, how bad would it be to run this live axle with the key out of one wheel? Just rolling this on the drive way with both keys in, maneuvering was a real bear. I know it will be easier on grass, but wondering if I should get a hub with bearings I could swap out for road driving.

 

[chancer]

It is pretty bad to just remove the key. Now you have steel on steel. It will do what you want but it is VERY hard on the Axle. My karts are difficult to maneuver rolling around (pushing) in the shop too, but they drive fine.
At least try driving it first. If you do insist on "just" removing the key, use alot of grease.
If you can find a hub with bearings definitely get it.

 

[chancer]

Also here is a pic of similar bearing mounts you may want to think about adding this support.