Advanced Hemi 212cc Predator Build

[bob58o]

This is what the AR3910X spark plug looks like if anybody reading along didn't know. I've seen it Temp rated as "Racing", "Cold", "3", and "11 -14:1 CR".

I don't know the proper terminology, but this is what I meant about 4 electrodes and not needing to index. Let's hope it fires at the right one.

[Insert CPD joke here]

 

[bob58o]

Finished checking the volume of the combustion chamber. Again.

This time, I am more confident than my previous measurements.

18 +/- 0.25 cc / ml

I love my measuring skills. It got smaller! (or stayed the same)

---------- Post added at 03:56 AM ---------- Previous post was at 03:30 AM ----------

1. Finish Polishing the exhaust. - Clean Head
2. Check P2V clearance - Clean Head
3. Decide on Gasket Thickness 0.027" or 0.045" (Will use 0.027" if P2V allows)
4. Lapp Valves - Clean Head
5. Install 26lb springs
6. Drain Oil
7. Open and Clean Crank Case
8. Inspect, Clean, Lubricate crank, cam, lifters....
9. Replace Side Cover Gasket with new one, Attach Side Cover, Fill with Oil.
10. Remove Flywheel, Check Flywheel key, Re-Attach Flywheel
11. Set Coil Gap to .030"
12. Seal Head with Head Gasket
13. Attach Carb Adapter with Gaskets
14. Attach studs to Carb Adapter
15. Attach Carb to carb adapter with new gasket
16. Attach Air Filter to Carb
17. Fan Shroud/ Recoil Starter
18. Gas tank
19. Exhaust Pipe- new gasket
20. Throttle Plate
21. Throttle Linkage
21. Set Valve Lash
22. Valve Cover - New Gasket
23. Torque Converter
24. Chain
25. Brakes
26. Jet the Carb
27. Do Wheelies
28. Remove Engine
29. Add Two Engines
30. Do Bigger Wheelies!
31. Check for Valve Seal
32. cc combustion chamber - 18cc's

Hopefully when I get up I will check if these valves are sealing with the stock springs. If they seal with the 10.8, they should seal with the 26lb. If you can dodge a wrench, you can dodge a ball.

Then on to P2V clearance. I've moved the piston up 0.020 and the valves down 0.037". I've added ~0.050" lift to the stock cam. I want to take 0.018" off the gasket (0.027 vs 0.045").

That perhaps is bringing the valves 0.125" closer than stock (depending on valve event timing).

If I can use the 0.027" gasket, I will be at 11.11: 1 compression and how can you not like the way 11.11:1 looks on paper?
Maybe I can find some 111.1 octane fuel?

If the 0.027" gasket does't leave enough clearance, the 0.045" gasket will put me at 10.32:1. Maybe I can get away with premium?

If the 0.045" doesn't leave enough clearance, then....?????????? Hmmmm? It better!

So my gasket and fuel choice will depend on my P2V measurement.

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

I can read, and assuming this journey actually ends, what do you expect the outcome to be? What are you expectations after investing this much time, energy and money into a small industrial engine?

 

[bob58o]

That's a tough one.

My expectations were to stay busy and entertained while learning about engines.

Bet next time I need engine work on my car, I try it myself.

Honestly, I think I will be at 16-17.5 HP (hoping for 20) and top out close to 6500k
With TC, 7.5 gearing, 16" tires, and 325lb vehicle

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

That's a fair and honest answer. I wish you continued success.

 

[bob58o]

Side tracked today. Helped a friend move.
Intakey no mas leako.

 

[chancer]

Friends help you move,
Real friend help you move a body!

GAB Life!!!!

 

[bob58o]

Of course, call when you need help moving.

 

[bob58o]

1. Finish Polishing the exhaust. - Clean Head
2. Check P2V clearance - Clean Head
3. Decide on Gasket Thickness 0.027" or 0.045" (Will use 0.027" if P2V allows)
4. Lapp Valves - Clean Head
5. Install 26lb springs
6. Drain Oil
7. Open and Clean Crank Case
8. Inspect, Clean, Lubricate crank, cam, lifters....
9. Replace Side Cover Gasket with new one, Attach Side Cover, Fill with Oil.
10. Remove Flywheel, Check Flywheel key, Re-Attach Flywheel
11. Set Coil Gap to .030"
12. Seal Head with Head Gasket
13. Attach Carb Adapter with Gaskets
14. Attach studs to Carb Adapter
15. Attach Carb to carb adapter with new gasket
16. Attach Air Filter to Carb
17. Fan Shroud/ Recoil Starter
18. Gas tank
19. Exhaust Pipe- new gasket
20. Throttle Plate
21. Throttle Linkage
21. Set Valve Lash
22. Valve Cover - New Gasket
23. Torque Converter
24. Chain
25. Brakes
26. Jet the Carb
27. Do Wheelies
28. Remove Engine
29. Add Two Engines
30. Do Bigger Wheelies!
31. Check for Valve Seal
32. cc combustion chamber - 18cc's

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

33. Suddenly realize you have run out of things to do, panic, run around in circles screaming "words are spoken to be broken!"

 

[bob58o]

Ok I can now install a valve with 10.8lb spring and automotive style retainers/keepers in under 5 minutes. LOL

Now the question is which gasket to use to test P2V????????????
I want to keep the 0.027" and the 0.045" gasket uncompressed for final assembly. I guess I will use the already compressed/used 0.036" gasket for these measurements.

Clay First!

Going to put a layer of clay around 0.125" thick. If nothing hits that, golden!

The spec I keep finding is 0.080" Intake 0.100" exhaust (automobile engine). Plus additional 0.030" if using aluminum connecting rod (with steel block?).

I think I have also read people running as tight as 0.015" on the Intake???????

I got a suggestion for 0.050" on this site, but have also heard of 0.050" as radial clearance for valve reliefs. I have asked on other forums, but didn't get a good reply. Maybe I should check back and see if anyone chimed in yet.

---------- Post added at 12:53 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:42 PM ----------

I have always used .060" as the minimum piston to valve clearance to shoot for, as long as it is above .060 I ran it, that applied from stock predators to open predators. My last open predator had right at .060" exhaust and .068" intake clearance, I wouldn't mind running it a little tighter on a stock engine that wouldn't see as much rpm, but I would want at least .040", and no less than .025" piston to head clearance for a stock engine, no less than .050" piston to head clearance on the opens. That is how I do things, I have never had an engine drop a valve or have contact other than one engine that broke a stock valve because of too much valve float. That is a different animal all together though. I am no professional builder at all, just a racer who builds his own engines alot and have always been up front and winning with them, so I must be doing something right. Results speak for themselves in my opinion

---------- Post added at 01:21 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:53 PM ----------



So maybe I should just use the 0.045" gasket. According to my last measurement. That will keep me above, 0.060" P2V and close to 0.050 P2H.

10.32 Compression Ratio. Premium Gas.

Going to use Blue Clay this time. Cause I so F'ing sick of Red!!!!!

#33 Paint the Minibike.

 

[bob58o]

Ball of clay. About 1.125" to 1.25" diameter.

 

[bob58o]

Pancake of clay 65 mm wide

 

[bob58o]

And .180" thick.

 

[bob58o]

Don't forget to lube.

 

[bob58o]

MISSING:

Have you seen my pushrods?
Did you touch my drum set?

 

[bob58o]

Help!!!

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

That's Playdoh isn't it? Or is it some kind of high tensile, medium viscosity polymer clay used by NASA?

 

[bob58o]

That's Playdoh isn't it? Or is it some kind of high tensile, medium viscosity polymer clay used by NASA?

I got it from Wal-Mart.
I hate to shop there, but it was 4am I wanted modeling clay.
It is modeling clay. 4 or 5 colors for 5 bucks maybe?

It came with that 125 psi, 2 HP, 8 gallon air compressor that delivers 4.5 cfm at 90psi.

PAFR? No I have not thought about putting this in the passenger seat. Nor have I wondered how many cfm at say 6psi.

 

[ezcome-ezgo]

Oh they were running their, "buy modeling clay, get a free compressor 24 hour sale"