adapting 3/4 " to 1" shaft
- Thread starter hobbykart
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anderkart
Moderator
I dont know how well it would hold up but you could probably buy a 3/4"ID x 1"OD bushing: http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/AZ8320.html?id=KwiQgmvL
You'd have to cut a 1/4" slot for the keyway and then come up with some 1/2" x 1/4" steel bar stock for a custom sized key.
Or, theres probably serveral guys around here that'd gladly swap it out for a 3/4" model...
You'd have to cut a 1/4" slot for the keyway and then come up with some 1/2" x 1/4" steel bar stock for a custom sized key.
Or, theres probably serveral guys around here that'd gladly swap it out for a 3/4" model...
frederic
The Junk Man
If you're worried about durability you can take anderkart's idea (which is a good one BTW) and weld the bar stock in place then machine around it to return it to it's original shape so the clutch slips right on.
1992suburban
I wanna go FAST!!
for curiosity sake.. why you wanting to do this??
Because he obviously has a 1" bore clutch and a 3/4" engine and doesn't want to buy another engine/clutch.
Ive wanted to know if this is possible too.
frederic
The Junk Man
No, he said he had a 1" bore clutch and a 3/4" shaft, which means the shaft is too small for the clutch's bore.
If it were the other way around, one just has to machine the output shaft of the engine to the smaller diameter.
This way, one needs to effectively enlarge the shaft or replace the bore with a smaller one. Using a collar is an effective way of doing this, as long as it doesn't "slip" because if it wiggles even a little, the outer edges of the keyslot on the engine shaft and the inner edges of the keyslot on the clutch will start to round over time, and that will allow the key to wiggle even more. This continues until something breaks or tears, as the wiggling will wear down the key itself so that it's narrower in the middle.
welding it together and machining off the excess is one way of preventing the wiggling. Another is to pin things together, i.e. a hardened pin or bolt through the clutch's bore flange, the collar, and the engine's output shaft.
If it were the other way around, one just has to machine the output shaft of the engine to the smaller diameter.
This way, one needs to effectively enlarge the shaft or replace the bore with a smaller one. Using a collar is an effective way of doing this, as long as it doesn't "slip" because if it wiggles even a little, the outer edges of the keyslot on the engine shaft and the inner edges of the keyslot on the clutch will start to round over time, and that will allow the key to wiggle even more. This continues until something breaks or tears, as the wiggling will wear down the key itself so that it's narrower in the middle.
welding it together and machining off the excess is one way of preventing the wiggling. Another is to pin things together, i.e. a hardened pin or bolt through the clutch's bore flange, the collar, and the engine's output shaft.
frederic
The Junk Man
Understandable, the title is backwards ;-)
yeah and quick question should it take a long time to grind welds with a angle grinder? with a grinding disk i have cut off wheels for it but im not sure if i should use them the manual says only use ones with the indent like thing not flat ones.
1992suburban
I wanna go FAST!!
just let the wheel do the work go easy so wheel doesnt spin on shaft and or BREAK
1992suburban
I wanna go FAST!!
use the cut off wheel.. let the wheel cut dont rush it and you will be fine
anderkart
Moderator
Hey great idea's frederic, that extra tall key wobbling back and forth would definitely be the weak point of this mod.
Welding the bushing to the inside of the clutch hub itself might be another option to consider so the key could be easly replaced if necessary and the PTO would remain completly un-modded. This should give good support for the key and also allow a quick easy installation of a 3/4" replacement clutch at some point down the road.
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