A tale of two Dingo's

[Whitetrashrocker]

Did a video for you guys. I've seen a lot of people want to know the sound difference between stock and straight pipes.

Here's my input.
The stock sounds louder and has a more annoying tone, Where as the straight pipe sounds a little deeper and much more pleasurable.

What do you think?

https://youtube.com/watch?v=vuxwRd3Sr6k

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

I wanted to go run the track but it looks like I'm going to be doing some maintenance. I really need to get some floor pans and shielding around the sprocket, brake and TC. This is the 3rd time I've had to remove and repolish the sheaves.

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Really?!?!?!!!!!!
Now it's the left side.

Looks like the brace cracked too.

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Well it time to put the dingo down.

For some surgery that is.
Started making axle braces. Who ever at Manco that designed this frame should be drug down the street, or at least made him work on it. I think engineers should take a repair course first.

This swept back axle design is stupid. All it does is torque the axle tube. A straight axle wouldn't do this. The tortion is ripping itself from the frame. Here's proof. The porch is dropped and the floor pan is bending.

The factory supports are on the flat side and only really give support in a front to back way. Nothing verticle.

With out getting fancy these bars should take the tortion out of the axle and make it a vertical stress across the frame.

We'll see what happens.

My stick welder isn't good at upside down so I'm gonna have to strip the frame of roll bars and power train. While it's down I'm gonna have to find some sheets of something. Engine pans are a must around here. The drive train eats rocks. I cringe when a rock goes through the chain and I showed you what it does to the TC.

I might need some front tires soon. I can see tube under the threads.....Eek.

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

More cracks. This is the bottom side. Also the floor pan lost a stitch on each side.

And the bedliner paint has taken a beating. The pic just can't capture it.

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

The cold front and wind finally let up and I got to finish surgery.

Now on to the belly....

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Here's the start.

These are going to be tacked on like the original floor pan. I should be able to reach everything with these in place.

I'm going to drill holes and weld nuts on the top side of the sprocket/brake discs guards. Then I can put a removable section around the axle if I need to get under there.

The brake rod bellcrank will get boxed in and a slight modification to the rod itself.

Gotta go get the dragster chassis cert and the club banquet/awards are this weekend so I'll be back to this next week.

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

I'm jones'n to get side ways again. This is taking too long.

Got the skins welded on. Looks like bird doo doo welding. Remember I'm doing this with an AC buzz box, with old electrodes. (I've used all old rod up and had to go buy a few pounds now.) Trying to get penetration and not burn the sheet is throwing me a curve. I asked other welders any tricks and they all laughed and wished me good luck. Said I was doing pretty good as is.

Using duplicolor bed liner this time around and the nozzle is garbage. It drools down the can more than it sprays. And what does get to the metal is globby and hard to get any coverage. I prefer the Rust-Oleum brand better. The better nozzle and thin spray made it easy to get coverage. I'll keep an eye on these parts and see how it wears in comparison.

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

So I flip her over and start grabbing parts to get the engine back in and notice I've got more breakage. The jack shaft plate is separating from the axle tube. Yeah more welding practice. Oh look the motor mount is splitting too. Better add some metal there too......

I'm beginning to wonder if I'm a little to hard on these poor 25 year old karts.

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Got it all back together and some much needed testing had to be done.

The verdict: Mas Chingon!

The front end feels tons stiffer. A few of the turns are apexed on a terrace change. Some are more extreme of an elevation change. One particular corner going CCW is a downhill left. Easy to get airborne and sideways. I took it a little hot and the air was still there but the landing was much better, but still drifted out of bounds.

Perfect time to test the belly pans. All the large rocks got thrown out here and last year's pecan tree leaves are piled there along with some small branches. I also found a nice spot to slide in the bigger aggregate. Sounded like it worked, no chain grinders.

Made a few more laps just to put everything right in the world again.

Parked in the garage and gave a look see. Only a few small pebbles and some dirt were stuck in the new chain grease that was flung down there. I'm sure the panels also helped to strengthen the frame also.

All in all, good modifications!!

 

[Flyinhillbilly]

So I flip her over and start grabbing parts to get the engine back in and notice I've got more breakage. The jack shaft plate is separating from the axle tube. Yeah more welding practice. Oh look the motor mount is splitting too. Better add some metal there too......

I'm beginning to wonder if I'm a little to hard on these poor 25 year old karts.

I broke the frame on mine last weekend, I feel your pain.

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Hey FHB! How are you breaking frames on flat ground?!?!?

 

[Flyinhillbilly]

The back straight isn't very smooth, I usually bounce off the ground a few times on that one. The frame broke where the seat crossmember goes across. I'll sew it back together and go some more, but we really need to smooth that part out.

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Got something to drag around? You've seen my harrows? It's done wonders for my track. But I have to wait for the rains to get a good job done. The ground is rock hard when it's dry. I saw your water truck trick. I'm gonna steal it. I've acquired the old PTO driven tree sprayer and 75 gallon tank. I don't have a tractor but I might just put it in the back of the pick-up with a gravity feed spray bar. Then I don't have to wait to groom.

 

[Flyinhillbilly]

We've tried and old box spring without much luck. We've been shoveling dirt into the low spots and watering it and rolling it with a lawn roller filled with water but it keeps chunking out. I think it's just time for some earth moving equipment if we're going to get it very good. The dirt here is more of a hard pack topsoil and don't move very easily.
The local kart dirt track opens for a play day in two weeks, so I think I'm just going to focus on getting ready for that. I want to try my hand at a proper track anyway.

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

Could make an angle iron frame and load it with cinder blocks. And on the front edge weld large nails or something dig up the top inch or so. Then the high spots get cut and fill the lows.

 

[Flyinhillbilly]

Now there's an idea. Thanks for that.

 

[chancer]

Could make an angle iron frame and load it with cinder blocks. And on the front edge weld large nails or something dig up the top inch or so. Then the high spots get cut and fill the lows.

I tried some thing like that trying to loosen up the ground for a garden plot... Amazing what an awsome Brake/Anchor that makes too! LOL
The 17.5HP John Deere would not move 3, 6" Spikes.
But by varying the weight by adding or removing cinder blocks it may work.
I guess it also depends on the angle of the spikes too.

 

[Flyinhillbilly]

I tried some thing like that trying to loosen up the ground for a garden plot... Amazing what an awsome Brake/Anchor that makes too! LOL
The 17.5HP John Deere would not move 3, 6" Spikes.
But by varying the weight by adding or removing cinder blocks it may work.
I guess it also depends on the angle of the spikes too.

I have a turbocharged 4x4, I can for sure pull it

 

[Whitetrashrocker]

I think the harrow sections I use are about 100lbs each, then I put 5 half length crossties on top. I'm guessing 70 lbs each. That's about 550 lbs I drag. It's much easier in low range in my Jeep. Its amazing how you can pull many times that on wheels and bearings. But the dead drag really puts a stop to things.

The tines on mine are on pivot bars. I can adjust how deep they dig. Even at the most downwards position they lay back about 30° or so.

I'd suggest making something sturdy and load as much weight as you can. It keeps the drag from jumping. The neighbor drags something similar (some frame loaded with crossties) up and down the road to knock down the rubboards.