A slippery subject , oil weight

karl

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Free-flowing as you can get inside a can, but quiet as a muffler.
Had to prove it to the haters, so I made a video of it running.
That was me, remember?

You claimed 100% free flow with zero restriction at all, when we questioned that, you threw a fit.

Now it's free as you can get inside a can.

And my mother's house does not have a basement, and I don't live in mine, just build engines and do laundry down there.

It's a nice, well engineered muffler, I must say.

Just too big for my application. And I threw mine together for free in one night.
 

madprofessor

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Yeah karl, I've learned since then not to utter any thoughts here that can't withstand being picked apart on a micro scientific level.
I was giving regional norms of understanding and assumption concerning the short version spoken English language too much credit for its pervasiveness and acceptance. Call it a meager effort to curtail my frequently lengthy diatribes into something folks can get through without eventually falling asleep or becoming accidental victims of self-hypnosis. Been called a "mad professor", "mad scientist", and just plain madman all of my life for a good reason, entirely too much leaning in the direction of detail with little ability to leave out any supposedly good bits of technical and even philosophical components.
 

karl

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Sorry about being over critical with details, after the first debacle I became biased against you.

Your a skilled and knowledgeable dude, I can respect that.

I know we may not see eye to eye, but carry on you mad scientist!
Now that looks like a great idea
Just runnin what I brung, thanks
 

vpd66

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Back in the early to late 90s I raced 5hp Briggs circle track karts. We used an oil called "Cool Power". I believe it was mineral based oil. We ran ethanol and changed it after every race. I used to save my old oil and would put it in an old 5hp Briggs snowblower that liked to suck oil. That thing would have a flame coming out of the muffler when it was under load at night! LOL

 

karl

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Back in the early to late 90s I raced 5hp Briggs circle track karts. We used an oil called "Cool Power".
Cool stuff, BMI karts stocks it at 50$ a gallon, in light, medium, and heavy weight.

Boutique stuff, seen Blendzall offers castor based 4-cycle oil, might pick some up, recommended for
high performance splash lube type kart engines.

Still, the 0w20 parts store garbage is treating me well so far much to my surprise.
 

vpd66

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I believe Klotz also makes a 4 cycle oil for splash lube type small engines. I don't think you'll have a problem with your 0w20 oil but if you looking to get every little extra bit of power out of your engine then one of these racing oils is the way to go. I see the price has really gone up on that Cool Power oil. I remember it being around $30 a gallon.
 

madprofessor

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Original version Marvel Mystery Oil observation: 1999 Chevy Astro van V6 has had low oil pressure for all the 8 years I've had it, 40 psi on cold startup idle, 20 psi idle after it gets warm. Has 193K miles now, developed a ticking sound like a valve problem. Added a qt. of original MMO, it shut up the ticking immediately. 2 weeks later the warmed up oil pressure fell off to zero at low idle.
Tiny bit of gas pedal gave it 15-20 psi. Got the oil changed last week then with the 5W30 it's always gotten, no difference in psi at all. Have added 1.5 pints motor honey (STP Oil Treatment) to thicken things up, got it to stop going to zero. You see what this observation means................
(A): Original Marvel Mystery Oil should never be put in an old engine with a questionable maintenance (oil changes) history. It will dissolve the sludge that may be all that's holding the engine together.
(B): It might take the MMO a good while to clean things up, so immediate results aren't all it will do, patience may be warranted.
(C): Never leave MMO in an engine longer than it takes to do what you wanted it to do.
(Bonus observation): Super thick motor honey will increase oil pressure in a worn engine.
 

Denny

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Or you could just replace the bad oil pressure sender the van probably has, because the Chinese made senders were junk. Just don’t replace it with a jack shaft and a 2 piece aluminum sprocket. Cause they ain’t the answer for everything.
 

madprofessor

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No way that I can fault either the oil pressure sending unit or the gauge. Like I pointed out, it jumped up to 40 psi at idle when cranked up cold, and I could watch it slowly go down to 20 as the temperature gauge rose to 160 F. Then when this MMO disaster happened 2 weeks after putting it in, I could likewise watch it go down to zero. Gauge responds immediately to any increase in rpm, and is very consistent with its actions every day it gets cranked.
The MMO observation is solid facts, only my conclusions are conjecture where something could be wrong. Me I mean, I could be wrong in my conclusions. The bonus observation about the STP Oil Treatment is solid facts also, my conclusion that it's what raised the oil pressure is the part that could be conjecture there. I just thank and praise God for the slight rise in oil pressure.....................
.................Harbor Freight doesn't have any of my V6 Chevy motors in stock at the Jacksonville store.
 

karl

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I believe Klotz also makes a 4 cycle oil for splash lube type small engines. I don't think you'll have a problem with your 0w20 oil but if you looking to get every little extra bit of power out of your engine then one of these racing oils is the way to go. I see the price has really gone up on that Cool Power oil. I remember it being around $30 a gallon.
Thanks, that's all I was looking for, an opinion from someone with practical experience.

The bonus observation about the STP Oil Treatment is solid facts also, my conclusion that it's what raised the oil pressure is the part that could be conjecture there. I just thank and praise God for the slight rise in oil pressure.....................
Yeah the extra zinc helps, but just running a thicker weigh oil does the same thing. Since your in Florida, running a 10w40 should do the trick.
All the motor honey/ stp does is make the oil thicker. It's just zinc additive and thick base stock. If you don't like multi viscosity oils SAE40 got ya back. Thicker oil+ worn babbit bearings = more oil pressure.

................Harbor Freight doesn't have any of my V6 Chevy motors in stock at the Jacksonville store.
Bet I could find one in the parking lot............. :idea2:

Or you could just replace the bad oil pressure sender the van probably has, because the Chinese made senders were junk. Just don’t replace it with a jack shaft and a 2 piece aluminum sprocket. Cause they ain’t the answer for everything.
That's why I'm a fan of high quality mechanical gauges for oil pressure.
 

madprofessor

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Had the 40 weight idea in the beginning, since it was already time for an oil change anyway. When I dashed to the Jiffy Lube for the change I found a surprise in prices. $50 for a basic oil change only, using my standard 5W30. To get any version of 40 weight was some kind of Ultimate Service Package or similar for $90.
So $50 oil change, $4 a pint for the STP. Oh, yes, the STP was only for the viscosity, wasn't even positive it would work.
 

karl

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$15.00 a quart isn't too bad and I sure you get that wonderful Klotz smell! LOL
(y)

Going to place an order soon! Love me that smell, combined with cam2 race fuel.

Seen a noticeable gain , slight but present, from running about half the crankcase oil as normal.

Between that and 0w20, got it burning hot multiple times, 40+ miles, and lots of WOT pulls,
it's ticking but hanging in. Beat a 350cc quad in a drag.

Just want it to blow up, so I have an excuse to big block swap a monster moto 80 :sifone:

Finally after 4 months wait got parts in, now I can clear off the basement bench and get another motor going.

20210808_225807 (1).jpg
 

Hellion

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Switched to straight 30 weight for all air-cooled small industrial engines and never looked back..

It stopped an oil consumption problem in the riding mower plus an oil leak that was getting past the seals, when using a multi viscosity oil like 5W-30. It gets changed once a season at nearly 25 hours of use, give or take.

I don't race but have read numerous articles on what the kart racers do for every ounce of power--racing oils, yes, but running less in the sump, et cetera et cetera.


Suffice to say, oil quality and technology has vastly increased in the past 50 years and you can get a quality quart of oil, dino or synthetic, at a dollar store or a convenience store brand...
 

karl

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Switched to straight 30 weight for all air-cooled small industrial engines and never looked back.

Straight grade oil is more shear stable at high temps,

I run the genuine briggs sae30 oil in my 2016 is700 briggs/ferris zero turn and push mower, exposed to high temps and constant load.

Suffice to say, oil quality and technology has vastly increased in the past 50 years and you can get a quality quart of oil, dino or synthetic, at a dollar store or a convenience store brand...
Totally, for stock engines id trust $ store oil, but if I have investment in said motor, imma run something decent.
 

madprofessor

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WOW! I'm sure you know where everything is, but looking at that bench I'm feeling as lost as a blind man parachuting into the jungle. How many motors do you work on at the same time?
 

madprofessor

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The great mechanic Henry Koenig of Koenig's Gas is saluting you from his grave. He had a whole shop in the back that looked like your one bench. Thing was, he could walk in there anytime and come out with a rebuilt alternator, starter, water pump, radiator, who knows what all that could fix any of your cars with a simple swapout. Because he rebuilt it all partway, just leaving out some brushes or seals, and finishes it in 10 minutes for you. Your bench looks just like that.
 
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