...[deep breathes]... Okay, over the last month I've had the harness inside on my dining room table, on the floor of the garage, and now strung back into the kart. I was able to find a diagram from the manufacturer that white-labeled the UTV for Greenworks and it seems to match pretty closely. I was able to confirm connections and what wires from the relay box go where.
I was able to get 12V stuff powered up and the gauge cluster sweeps on and has power, along with the toggle switches light up.
The next step was to figure out the high-voltage stuff. It was super confusing because it felt like the diagram had several things connected to the battery positive before the contactor, along with battery negative at the controller. It felt like those were mixed with 12V but I was able to confirm that not the case. Obviously the positive isn't, the negative ground is however.
@Functional Artist I know you "didn't recommend" to try battery voltage to the KSI port 1. This current setup does in fact do that and I was able to run through the system making sure I knew where that voltage was going since the KSI wire is pigtailed into several other Red wires running through the harness. I also confirmed grounds throughout the system were good.
My current state:
The key turns on and the main contactor closes and the controller gets battery voltage, the toggle switches get power to their LEDs (through the DC-DC converter, and the dash swept on and turned off once and didn't do it again.
@Functional Artist I know you "didn't recommend" to try battery voltage to the KSI port 1. This current setup does in fact do that and I was able to run through the system making sure I knew where that voltage was going since the KSI wire is pigtailed into several other Red wires running through the harness. I also confirmed grounds throughout the system were good.
When I turn the key on to start, the controller gives me 3 errors:
- Error 31: Main coil open or short (Pin 6) - This pin is one of the 2 wires that run to the contactor to close it. I checked and confirmed that this wire isn't shorting to the second wire, and I checked the tabs on the contactor as well. So I have no idea especially since the contactor does actually close as it should.
- Error 55: OEM code, BMS PDO Fault. Says that the The service manual say
(Time between CAN PDO messages (between controller and BMS) received exceeded the PDO Timeout Period. Check the communication wires from BMS.)
- Error 56: OEM code, Battery cell voltage is low. This one stinks because I have a charger for the battery but it won't charge. I believe I'm missing an onboard charger piece of some sort.
So once I get my new multi-meter in since mine broke last night, I plan to double check the CAN wires from the battery, try to see why the pin 6 wire is shorted or open, and then take my battery pack out and try to setup my smaller removable battery pack to test.