6hp Tecumseh question(s)

Wilson_Engine_Shop

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So i'm fixing up my 6hp Tecumseh and noticed that it has 3 wires coming off the coil. Which wires do I extend so I can move the killswitch closer to me while driving?

Also, when I pulled the side case, the governor weights were destroyed and just laying in the bottom of the sump so I pulled the rest of the Gov. gear. Not sure how it was still running with all those small parts just laying in the bottom, i'm very lucky
 

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ol'joe

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Looks to me like the two wires already attached to the switch are to (A) ground out the primary coil windings when the switch is closed and (B) allow the ignition system to operate and engine to run when it is open.

If you are trying to hook up a plain old kill button, you would extend only the wire that does NOT run to ground to the button and ground the other side of the kill button, OR, just extend those two wires and hook them into another regular switch.

Mechanical governor parts laying in the engine pan are not all that unusual. All other things being equal, it will run without them but you will have to control the engine speed with the carb. butterfly. Better to replace them and have better speed control, though....Joe
 

anickode

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Also, when I pulled the side case, the governor weights were destroyed and just laying in the bottom of the sump so I pulled the rest of the Gov. gear. Not sure how it was still running with all those small parts just laying in the bottom, i'm very lucky

THAT. RIGHT THERE, is exactly why you shouldn't just bypass the governor arm with the throttle linkage to get more RPMs out of an engine. Most governors allow for some adjustment, and you can usually squeeze 4500 rpm from them without worrying about self-destruction, but you should never just bypass the governor without removing it.:thumbsup:
 

Wilson_Engine_Shop

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Alright, i'll extend the loose green wire up to the driver's area and put in a second switch. Thanks!


---------- Post added at 07:20 PM ---------- Previous post was at 07:14 PM ----------

THAT. RIGHT THERE, is exactly why you shouldn't just bypass the governor arm with the throttle linkage to get more RPMs out of an engine. Most governors allow for some adjustment, and you can usually squeeze 4500 rpm from them without worrying about self-destruction, but you should never just bypass the governor without removing it.:thumbsup:

The Tecumseh came on my Murray Explorer that I bought from a used furniture store of all places somehow. I only ran it for about an hour then swapped it to a 212. Whoever had it before attached to throttle cable to the governor arm to pull the carb butterly open. It was either full throttle or no throttle pretty much.

Plus, it had a dumb bulb style carb on it. I put a choke style on tonight but it'll still stay it storage until I need it. When I cleaned the crankcase there was a bunch of thick grey slime from little to no oil changes ever which disguised me. Its clean and ready for use now
 

ol'joe

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Alright, i'll extend the loose green wire up to the driver's area and put in a second switch. Thanks!

Nope, that is not what I said!....the loose green wire is the ground and it goes to ground. The two wires that are already attached to the switch control the kill or run function.

One of them goes to the ground and one goes to the coil primary circuit. You can either extend both wires and hook in another switch like the existing one on a parallel circuit, eliminate the current switch or move it to a more suitable location, or eliminate the current switch and mount a kill button elsewhere with the wire that runs to the coil hooked into one side of the button switch and the other side running to ground, that is, if the kill button switch has more than one wire terminal. Sometimes they only have one and the body of the switch grounds it.....Joe
 

Guapo613

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Is that an OHH60 Tecumseh?. If it is, they have a plastic camshaft. There are used, steel replacement camshafts available. I'll find the part# tonight and give you the link.
 

Wilson_Engine_Shop

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Is that an OHH60 Tecumseh?. If it is, they have a plastic camshaft. There are used, steel replacement camshafts available. I'll find the part# tonight and give you the link.

Yep its got a plastic camshaft, i've never seen a completely plastic cam before. I would definitely like to put a steel one in it instead!
 

Smerft85

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Been wanting to poke fun at this tecumseh, step one, remove fuel cap, step two, bury the tecumseh 3' deep in the ground, step 3, throw the cap away and find a running engine!

Same method works for fords, but radiator cap instead or the fuel cap!
 

Guapo613

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The part number is 37040. Here is the link for a steel one I just came across.

https://www.google.com/amp/s/www.bmikarts.com/Tecumseh-Camshaft--Off-Returned-Kart_p_8401.html?amp=1
37040 is plastic, 36620 is steel. To the OP, you also want to get a different carb because that one with the primer bulb on it is complete garbage.
Earlier Tecumseh came an adjustable needle/mixture screw and are much better. Get rid of the stock throttle linkage also, it's complete garbage. Once you do that and remove the governor, it will flat out rip!!!

---------- Post added at 12:36 PM ---------- Previous post was at 12:28 PM ----------

https://ebay.com/usr/andrei-x
This dude will make you an exhaust header for your Tecumseh
 

Wilson_Engine_Shop

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Ive already removed the governor entirely since the weights were laying in the sump after I got it. I'm not sure how to run the throttle cable to the carb since the governor arm pulled on the carb butterfly from factory i think.

Ive already put a choke style carb on it, its ready to use once I figure out the throttle
 

Brisketends

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When I ran my cable for the choke style carb, I basically cut the extra wire and crimped a small aluminum electrical fitting from a tube connector or something. Small piece. It needs to fit inside the throttle tube and not bind when you slide the tube up and down. The hardest part is getting the correct length for the throttle tube range. After I finished that, I used the throttle cable adjustment nuts from the pedal to fine tune any issues. When I get home, I can upload a pic.
 

Wilson_Engine_Shop

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I must have a different Tecumseh than you have. This is all I have to work with. The cable can only attach to the governor arm which pulls the carb butterfly open. The only cable mounting point is on the pull start shroud
 

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Wilson_Engine_Shop

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What does the stock linkage look like? It was missing almost every bit of linkage when I got it but it somehow still ran(barely). I havent even tried to clean the silver cover yet lol. I just repainted the black air filter cover and exhaust shield to clean it up a bit

---------- Post added at 11:08 AM ---------- Previous post was at 11:06 AM ----------

I also deleted the crankcase vent into the carb to keep my brand new carb from getting gunked up and put a breather on the valve cover. That shouldn't affect anything, right?
 

Brisketends

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Oh yea that crankcase vent delete keeps that carb cleaner. If you're using the stock bulb style carb, use ethanol free gas. I use to swap out those carbs every few months because the normal pump gas gunked it up every time I parked it. It was quicker to just swap it out than put my beer down and clean it lol

You are missing that linkage throttle plate. Shoot, I'll give you mine lol the only thing its missing is the linkage springs. There's two of them. I'll try and find the post I saw earlier about them.


http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=43262
 

Guapo613

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Is my motor supposed to have this on it?
Dude, use "Yankee Ingenuity" and fashion your own linkage. With the stock linkage, it's either idle or full throttle with the governor arm controlling everything else. If you delete the governor arm, there is no way to properly feather/part throttle the gas pedal.

Grab yourself some clothes hanger or throttle cable and use your imagination. You can always get a Mikuni clone and just go that route. Remember though, there are many VM22 clones that have slightly different mounting patterns so measure yours carefully.
 
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