670 clutch question
- Thread starter vegasboy
- Start date
- Status
Kartorbust
Well-known member
Look no further than Cars and Cameras on their race mower, with a 40 series, belt couldn't take the abuse and it all locked up. You end up burning the belt up more. But that's for CVTs, if your talking centrifugal clutch, then I'm not sure.
But if your talking like the torq-a-verter (20, 30, 40 series), they dont last very long behind high horsepower. For a 670, or any large V-twin, you want a Comet 780, or something from CVTech, Gauged CVT, etc. For higher horsepower applications it's going to get really expensive, but the parts hold up much better.
But if your talking like the torq-a-verter (20, 30, 40 series), they dont last very long behind high horsepower. For a 670, or any large V-twin, you want a Comet 780, or something from CVTech, Gauged CVT, etc. For higher horsepower applications it's going to get really expensive, but the parts hold up much better.
JTSpeedDemon
2019 Build Off Winner!
Most CCs can take quite a beating, but don't do something flat out stupid(i.e an 18 HP clutch for a 60 HP engine).
No torque converter. I have a clutch I cannot remember what it's rated for, but it needs to go on a 670 for a street legal trike. I'm looking for 60 65 miles an hour with a 5 to 1 ratio or something close. This will be my first 670 as I usually build with 420s. I'm assuming the torque should be higher apparently or obviously?
Kartorbust
Well-known member
What exactly are you building for this?
Seems like people in the modified lawn mower racing world, just use a standard clutch like a Noram Star and get springs for higher rpm engagement. This includes the Factory Expirimental Single and Factory Expirimental Twin (FXS/FXT). So high horsepower, high rpm engines. May require a rebuild every so often.
Seems like people in the modified lawn mower racing world, just use a standard clutch like a Noram Star and get springs for higher rpm engagement. This includes the Factory Expirimental Single and Factory Expirimental Twin (FXS/FXT). So high horsepower, high rpm engines. May require a rebuild every so often.
This trike used to have a 250cc ninja motor in it. The motor did work but i did not have suspenion on the trike. The ninja motor was more complicated than a 670 obviously. Im currently rebuilding the trike for rear suspension and a 670.
Attachments
-
20191016_195023.jpg -
20191016_195043.jpg
This is the clutch in question. $35 outboard only and does not have bushings because it runs on needle bearings. This is the only clutch I will use if I have a 1in shaft. It works really well on my 420 motorcycle on the streets and never had a problem with it plus it's very smooth due to the bearings.
Attachments
-
20191016_195835.jpg -
20191016_200223.jpg
appears to be a Noram clutch..
enforcer.. GE?? something alike I guess...
and with needle bearings I think we talk a 17-20hp rating.
worst case: 1600 series (rated 15hp?)
I'd say pretty safe on a 670 industrial engine
'sid
PS wait.. the enforcer is the ribbed one, no?... so GE or 1600 is more likely
enforcer.. GE?? something alike I guess...
and with needle bearings I think we talk a 17-20hp rating.
worst case: 1600 series (rated 15hp?)
I'd say pretty safe on a 670 industrial engine
'sid
PS wait.. the enforcer is the ribbed one, no?... so GE or 1600 is more likely
ah true... for 35 it's most likely a clone..
just checked, the GE is a two shoe clutch.. sooo that'd be out anyways..
The main issue will be the back/base plate btw..
with too much torque the baseplate will not be able to keep the shoes in place and rip them out of their fixtures
(alike just happened to an inboard MaxTorque SixShoe clone running inboard in another thread)
'sid
just checked, the GE is a two shoe clutch.. sooo that'd be out anyways..
The main issue will be the back/base plate btw..
with too much torque the baseplate will not be able to keep the shoes in place and rip them out of their fixtures
(alike just happened to an inboard MaxTorque SixShoe clone running inboard in another thread)
'sid
- Status