Kaptain Krunch
Pro Junk Collector
i'd just smear a ****load of jb weld on there. and demand your money back from the ****ty welder.
250r Kart (formerly Briggs Kart)
- Thread starter newrider3
- Start date
- Status
Rustydog2010
NZ Nutta :|
We fixed a Honda Civic race car's (Dont ask 
) top tank inlet that had been snapped completely off with a **** load of Araldite, worked fine running at 85-90*C all day. But have used JB weld before and worked fine as well.
) top tank inlet that had been snapped completely off with a **** load of Araldite, worked fine running at 85-90*C all day. But have used JB weld before and worked fine as well.
KieranM
Doin It!!
araldite, huh, never new that would hold up
Rustydog2010
NZ Nutta :|
So when one reaches this point in a build, they may realize that without a gas tank, you won't make it very far. One of these would work nicely, but we're too cheap for that sh!t. So...
Step 1: Buy airtank from HF for $19.99 on sale...
Step 2: Proceed to void the warranty...
Step 6: Weld on a fuel filler neck from a Ford bumpside pickup (being sure to remove the spring-loaded thingy in the cap to allow it to vent), add some flat black, and a secure mount (lol), step back and admire.
Step 1: Buy airtank from HF for $19.99 on sale...
Step 2: Proceed to void the warranty...
Step 6: Weld on a fuel filler neck from a Ford bumpside pickup (being sure to remove the spring-loaded thingy in the cap to allow it to vent), add some flat black, and a secure mount (lol), step back and admire.
devino246
Official DIYGK Chem Nerd
newrider3, you sir are a genius!
KieranM
Doin It!!
liking the mounting brackets lol
bajagokart
New member
haha i wouldve never thought of that! way to go newrider!
porsche930dude
New member
whered you get the front tires?
fowler
New member
im gunna have to try that air tank thing as i currently have no tank
woot! Got this thing running up on stands today! Need to rejet, as it is running rich enough right now with the filter off to smoke out the whole neighborhood and drip oil from the pipe. Leaks gas a bit from the bowl overflow, but other than tuning issues the motor is ready to go. Sounds mean too. Just need to set up a clutch lever and cable, and stick some keys in the jackshaft sprockets, and then it's time for a testride!
Harbor Freight, trailer tires
Harbor Freight, trailer tires
So, I finally got a new flywheel key for this thing, and got it out on the road. All I can say is it goes. Lots of torque and relatively fast. I need to raise the gearing, topping out in each gear too fast. Steering around a hard corner is **** near impossible on asphalt, my steering rig either needs serious tuning or a complete redo. Haven't gotten a chance to take it on any decent offroad yet, so no word as to the handling in dirt so far. So far it is pretty f'ing awesome, it steers like crap and the brakes get hotter than hell, but it is fast. :arf:
Posting some pics from the weekend, the site crapped out when I originally tried to post them.
I bumped my pilot jet up a size, and my main jet down a size, and got the kart running much better, idles nice and low now. Still sputters a bit at WOT so I may go down another size on the main. I got a crappy video of it, my camera captured it idling fine, but took a dump when I revved it.
Found a nice place on the far undeveloped side of my neighborhood to ride the kart, think a bowl at the dunes, but grass. Very cool to ride.
Had one of the jackshaft sprockets let go, when I had my machinist bore out the sprocket to fit the hub, he just pressed it on. So I'll have to TIG that up in shop tomorrow (yeah, school started yesterday).
Also, it seems I'm getting coolant in my oil. FVCK. Apparently water pump seals on these are a ***** to change too.
I bumped my pilot jet up a size, and my main jet down a size, and got the kart running much better, idles nice and low now. Still sputters a bit at WOT so I may go down another size on the main. I got a crappy video of it, my camera captured it idling fine, but took a dump when I revved it.
Found a nice place on the far undeveloped side of my neighborhood to ride the kart, think a bowl at the dunes, but grass. Very cool to ride.
Had one of the jackshaft sprockets let go, when I had my machinist bore out the sprocket to fit the hub, he just pressed it on. So I'll have to TIG that up in shop tomorrow (yeah, school started yesterday).
Also, it seems I'm getting coolant in my oil. FVCK. Apparently water pump seals on these are a ***** to change too.
So, it's been a while since I've updated this thread. The kart sat for quite a while pissing me off, until I finally got the water pump rebuilt.
I also re-did the shifter linkage, moving the handle up to the beltline of the frame, using a Morse cable from a Honda Civic shifter to connect to the engine.
I decided to start working on it again this week, beginning with a trip to the local junkyard. They got in a bunch of three wheelers recently, so I grabbed a pair of nice 22x11-8 knobby tires and wheels for the rear. These should serve to correct my overly low gear ratio as well as providing more traction. I need to source some new taller front runners also, the current short trailer tires don't look right with the rear balloon tires.
I also decided that I was done screwing around with bellcrank steering designs, and it was time for a proper rack and pinion. Can't afford $100 for a buggy unit right now though. I pulled the rack from a Hyundai Excel at the junkyard ($16 out the door), and narrowed it today. It's not the exact correct length in relation to my front suspension, but I feel that it won't really matter due to the short travel of the suspension setup.
Disassembled:
Chopped to size. The length from the end was welded to the stub remaining on the rack body, this allowed the stock plastic bushing to be reused, as well as allow for the boot to be mounted.
Shaft cut to length and beveled for welding:
Welded and ground smooth.
More pics tomorrow.
I also re-did the shifter linkage, moving the handle up to the beltline of the frame, using a Morse cable from a Honda Civic shifter to connect to the engine.
I decided to start working on it again this week, beginning with a trip to the local junkyard. They got in a bunch of three wheelers recently, so I grabbed a pair of nice 22x11-8 knobby tires and wheels for the rear. These should serve to correct my overly low gear ratio as well as providing more traction. I need to source some new taller front runners also, the current short trailer tires don't look right with the rear balloon tires.
I also decided that I was done screwing around with bellcrank steering designs, and it was time for a proper rack and pinion. Can't afford $100 for a buggy unit right now though. I pulled the rack from a Hyundai Excel at the junkyard ($16 out the door), and narrowed it today. It's not the exact correct length in relation to my front suspension, but I feel that it won't really matter due to the short travel of the suspension setup.
Disassembled:
Chopped to size. The length from the end was welded to the stub remaining on the rack body, this allowed the stock plastic bushing to be reused, as well as allow for the boot to be mounted.
Shaft cut to length and beveled for welding:
Welded and ground smooth.
More pics tomorrow.
Got the rack all mounted up and working great. I can actually turn a corner with one hand now. Had to shorten the tie rods a bit, and pie cut my spindle arms to allow for proper Ackermann.
Couple pics of the new shifter linkage:
Overall pic with the new rear tires:
Any comments? Should I even bother updating this thread anymore??
Couple pics of the new shifter linkage:
Overall pic with the new rear tires:
Any comments? Should I even bother updating this thread anymore??
Doc Sprocket
*********
Looks pretty good! Nice work on the rack, too. This isn't the first time I've heard of guys shortening a Hyundai rack for a buggy. How many turns, lock-to-lock?
How's the cable shift working out so far? With my future plans, I basically have no choice but to go to a cable shift. So, it's either a 2-cable push-pull, or a single Morse if it looks doable.
EDIT- Going back through this thread, I'm really liking this thing! Next, I'm taking a re-run thru your original build thread.
How's the cable shift working out so far? With my future plans, I basically have no choice but to go to a cable shift. So, it's either a 2-cable push-pull, or a single Morse if it looks doable.
EDIT- Going back through this thread, I'm really liking this thing! Next, I'm taking a re-run thru your original build thread.
bighead
New member
Looking killer friend. Nice job. You Sir have a real Kart.
Thanks guys!
Steering is approx. 1.5 turns center to lock. There is much less effort involved now. I think the mods to allow Ackermann steering also made a huge difference in handling.
The shifter cable also works great. No slop in the setup. It was pretty cheap too, the cable assy. from the junkyard was only a few bucks, and had two usable cables as a unit. I just cut one free from the brackets, and have a spare for any future project.
I think this thing is finally tuned in enough to clean up the frame and give it some final paint. The only thing I want to add to it at this point is a couple aluminum panels to protect the electronics, and keep some of the mud spray out of the cockpit.
Steering is approx. 1.5 turns center to lock. There is much less effort involved now. I think the mods to allow Ackermann steering also made a huge difference in handling.
The shifter cable also works great. No slop in the setup. It was pretty cheap too, the cable assy. from the junkyard was only a few bucks, and had two usable cables as a unit. I just cut one free from the brackets, and have a spare for any future project.
I think this thing is finally tuned in enough to clean up the frame and give it some final paint. The only thing I want to add to it at this point is a couple aluminum panels to protect the electronics, and keep some of the mud spray out of the cockpit.
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