2 things. 1 is weight a big issue, 2 replaceable sprockets

[spinakerjones]

alrighty, im back and my project is off the ground! i have a 5 hp Tecumseh on a realllly heavy go kart frame from an amusement park, it dose maybe high 20s and it weights im guessing 200 pounds or more, with the engine and mount on it upwards of 240 - 250 (without rider) i have been trying to lighten it by cutting off what i think is useless metal but i don't want to ruin its structural integrity what should i cut off? (ill post pics of the frame tomorrow)

my second question is about my clutch. the acceleration on my kart is insane no wheel spin from a dead stop but it will do donuts and leave marks (my favorite). the top speed isn't as high as i would like it. i was wondering if i could sacrifice acceleration for top speed by buying a new sprocket with more teeth for my clutch is it possible if so please link,
my clutch - http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_200310374_200310374

thanks in advance - C

 

[Magice]

To your second question it is very much possible. If you're using a 10 tooth right now try upping to a 12 - 14. That should really bump up your top speed.

I can't give any advise on the frame until there are pictures.

Depending on your frame, being that heavy I would almost suggest upgrading engines if money permits.. To something like a 10 - 13hp if there is the room. You need a lot of torque to move a beast like that.

Oh, and how many teeth does the rear sprocket have?

 

[oscaryu1]

If you have good acceleration, then you most likely have it geared really low. You don't want to gear it so high the clutch burns out though.

 

[spinakerjones]

hmm yeah a burnt clutch wouldn't be good but right now i have 10 teeth on my clutch and 60 on my axle i was hoping for 12 or even higher maybe 14, would that burnout my clutch? and if it wouldn't where could i buy them?

as for the frame here are the pictures, its obviously a work in progress hence the wood engine mount but its held up nicely so far. i am on a tight budget, all i spent so far was 35$ for the clutch and 40$ for the frame (deal i know) engine was in my uncles back yard for 2 years (through the whole winter snow and everything)

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll77/spinakerjones/IMG_0862.jpg

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll77/spinakerjones/IMG_0863.jpg

http://i285.photobucket.com/albums/ll77/spinakerjones/IMG_0864.jpg

i am too big for this kart so after all the mechanical things are worked out im going too extend it.

 

[Magice]

I would cut off those boxes around the wheels / portion of the front bumper that makes them up.. I could be wrong.

As for the clutch I've used a 14 and a 12. I would say go for the 12. The 14 might bog you too much with that weight. Also, it might actually be cheaper to buy a new sprocket (if you use a split sprocket on a hub).. they are about 14 dollars. If so probably go for a 55 tooth or 50 tooth, then again I'm no expert in gearing.

 

[spinakerjones]

wait so your saying to change the sprocket on the axle? i don't think that's possible the sprocket is welded onto the axle pain in the a**. so it is possible to buy a bigger sprocket for the clutch there's a relief. if someone knows somewhere to get one could they possibly link me? ive been looking and no luck for a 40/41/420 chain size sprocket that's 12 teeth. just for clarity's sake im not looking for a new clutch just the sprocket that fits on it.

thanks guys -C

 

[crazycart]

First, it looks as if your engine is turned a bit, this will result in extreme chain wear and wear out the sprockets faster. And yeah cut off the box bumpers.

 

[oorgle]

remove the front and rear bumper and the box's around the wheels and you will lose 50-75 lbs at least. you can also cut down that box around the steering shaft. i would personally remove the box around the steering shaft completely and make a hoop out of tubing to hold the steering shaft in place.

 

[Magice]

Sorry to say but you can't get a new sprocket for most clutches.

Since money is an issue maybe post a wanted for a cheap #41 12 tooth clutch in the classified section.

 

[spinakerjones]

sweet thanks for the tips and ya in one of the pictures the engine looks a little tilted i noticed that too but im pretty sure thats just the angle, it looks straight in person. i dont know if this is the right kind of sprocket or even if this would fit on my clutch but its the closest thing i could find link would this work?

thanks for the responses

 

[Magice]

Those are direct drive sprockets. As mentioned it isn't possible to change the sprocket on your clutch.

If you could get the money, or one cheap, I would strongly suggest a torque-a-verter instead of a clutch! It would give great take off, great top speed, and isn't prone to burn out like clutches are.

 

[spinakerjones]

alright thanks guys ya sorry i didn't see your post i was typing mine up when you posted yours, my bad. i guess even though it says it has a replaceable sprocket it would be a pain in the *** to find one. thanks for the info and im gonna go and cut some of the frame off.

 

[oscaryu1]

Sprocket? eBay has tons. Look around. I got a 54 tooth for $20.

Also, since your engine is mounted behind the wheel, I wouldn't remove the governor. Doing that and overrevving can cause block flexing.

 

[Russ2251]

Also, since your engine is mounted behind the wheel, I wouldn't remove the governor. Doing that and overrevving can cause block flexing.

Block flexing?
Please articulate.

 

[Magice]

Sprocket? eBay has tons. Look around. I got a 54 tooth for $20.

Also, since your engine is mounted behind the wheel, I wouldn't remove the governor. Doing that and overrevving can cause block flexing.

He's talking about clutch sprocket.

 

[ed1380]

Block flexing?
Please articulate.

+1
i dont get it

 

[2or3wheels]

yeah im lost also on that,

after looking on google and trying different key words i found no 12 toothe clutchs with 12 teeth. so i think you may have to go with a differnet axle speoket, you can always cut that one off then grind/sand to back to orignal shape and then weld a new one on.

 

[spinakerjones]

so just take the wheel/chain off and chop it with a jig saw grind it down then take like a 50t 2 piece and weld that on? hmm that's an idea if i do do this i think it will be in a couple weeks. thanks guys.

 

[oscaryu1]

+1
i dont get it

I'm basing this offa the Clones (very prone to block flexing), but just read this:

FasterMotors Chain Guard Plus:

http://www.fastermotors.net/Chainguard.html

If you're even thinking about revving 7000+, you'll want one. They were created for Animals and such, but fit the Clone perfectly. Read the summary and you'll get it. Everyone with a highly modified Clone will tell you about it.

 

[Russ2251]

Also, since your engine is mounted behind the wheel, I wouldn't remove the governor. Doing that and overrevving can cause block flexing.

Unnecessary, really. This would be for very extreme cases.
The average builder will never ever run into this.
I would like to hear from Mr. Tyler regarding this "issue".