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Don't delete the governor. Just turn it up. I have a predator 459cc, it's got plenty of power. It's also got a big chinesium flywheel would really suck if it came apart at some insane speed. It's also got a regular cast connecting rod, hopefully that would come apart before the flywheel.

That would be kind of cool. I have a horizontal shaft Kohler 196cc that appears to have a paper thin stainless steel head gasket too. I was going to put a think gasket on glad I checked before ordering stuff.

Stock gasket is like a graphite metallic steam gasket and appears to be at least 1mm thick. Yeah copper will definitely work and I could reuse it like 50 times as long as I anneal it. Aluminum will be cheaper and the whole engine is made out of it so it should work too. For now I reused the one...

I would probably have to cut one out of thick metal foil by hand, clean up the edges with a Dremel, ect. Hopefully a better, smaller cc head on a 160cc block, timing advance and a big muffler will make decent power. This is going to be a lawnmower converted to something like a walk behind DR...

I replaced it with a normal looking head off a seized 140cc engine. The engine I'm working on is a 160cc. Now only if I could find a thin head gasket for a vertical shaft lawnmower engine... It does seem louder with the 140cc head on it.

No, I wasn't talking about converting an ohv to flat head, the head pictured just reminds me of the flat head design with the head blocking the area around the valves. That's all.

Cylinder head from a 2017 Briggs lawn mower.

Whyyyyyy?

Usually there's at least 2 settings: 1 spark equals 1 revolution or 1 spark equals 2 revolutions. I didn't even read the directions on mine I just assumed 1p1r was the one I needed and that 1p2r would read double and it did.

This is probably running more like 28 to 30 degrees. If it does anything weird I'll put a bigger jet in it first since it might be a bit lean, as it doesn't want to stay running without some choke when I first start it.

It starts and runs great with an additional 8 degrees of ignition advance. Haven't really tested it out yet. I also installed a tachometer/hourmeter. It was running about 3,800rpm, now it's running 4,000rpm. Also put on a better flowing Briggs and Stratton intake that uses 3 fasteners instead...

A gx390 with a backed off UT2 ignition coil and turned up to 4,000rpm should be plenty for a 25mph kart.

This is just a super boring Kohler branded Honda clone with cast iron wheel keyed to about 20 ish degrees of advance.

I have a bone stock Kohler 196cc engine, the RPMs are turned to 4,000 ignition is a single wire style non-digital. Normally I would toss on a 4, maybe a 6 degree advance key and call it good and not worry about it. Engine has been recarbed with a carb that has an adjustable air bleed instead of...

I just figure there's no point in the air filter catching dirt when the engine is not running.

Yes when not in use should have been more clear about that.

I have been using a Walmart bag and very long twist tie.

I get a lot of volume at idle and hardly any at 4,000. The way the crank seals are installed you some positive pressure inside the engine.

Well I won't need to spray the k&n style air filter with oil ever again.

Every engine I have put an advance key on definitely ran better so that's odd. Is the carb flooding? What was the original jet, what's it got now? Are you sure there isn't a pressure port blocked? I had a buckled bowl seal not that long ago after a jet change, it ran kind of like that, was...