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Another thought is to cut the drive shaft and weld on an end link for a Miata and use Miata differential/axles. I want this go kart to be within the footprint of the bike however. Goal is 400lbs dry.

There’s a hub on the wheel with a gear. That gear connects to a “differential” of sorts which converts the power 90 degrees so it can go into the engine. So there’s a drive shaft and splined shafts. my idea is to take the wheel hub and make a sprocket adapter then it’s easy from there. But I...

I just acquired a Honda V45 for $250. Stripped and sold the frame. This is a shaft driven bike. I’ve only made chain driven go karts. Is there any go-it’s for adapting to a go kart for shaft drive? Can I hook it up to a differential/axle? Can I convert it to chain? Examples would be...

Yes the carb is tuned fine. It just sputters sometime going down hill after it’s popped out the exhaust a few times.

I’m ngl, idk what it is either. I know idle screw, air/fuel mixture screw. Then there’s a screw on the top of the intake area that is either fuel or vacuum. Not sure about that one

Here’s an updated video after I changed the needle position back to 2 notches instead of 3. I’ll try to get a video of the fuel starving. https://drive.google.com/file/d/1jRVbJNjbrK0dT_h5eA9JBwQkYWEI0ijg/view?usp=drivesdk

Yes. I moved the needle back and it’s fine now but still fuel starves when I’m not on the gas on downhills

Hi guys. Thanks for ur help on my last post about tc’s. Karts come a long way since then. I replaced the carb with a 32mm “mikuni-style” flat slide. Ran great but I noticed while going downhill after a few pops it would fuel starve. so I adjusted the needle one lower to give more fuel and I’m...

So as far as all the modifications: 50lb valve springs, gov delete, drilled jets, straight pipe with screw-on muffler, lightened flywheel. It’s plenty for my application. I’d guess around 20-22hp.

Here’s a link to a short vid of riding it: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1gNARu7_CS1MYoRp3RgK-4XpbJEqGq9fL/view?usp=drivesdk

So gear ratio is 4 rn. 9 tooth to 36 tooth. It rips but I badly need to replace these tires. I have a 10 tooth that I might put on and see how that feels. Moved the spring so it doesn’t open when pulled. Also moved the jackshaft enough so no need for half link and tc is at proper CD now. Excited...

Just flipped the spring direction and put a 9 tooth sprocket. It doesn’t wanna run away anymore on startup. It skips cuz it needs a half link but it’s AMAZING. thank you guys so much for your advice. It’s ripping the tires loose at any speed so I can hold drifts with it. Crazy amount of power...

I’ll do that. Likely put a smaller sprocket on top then see what it does. I think I have an 8 tooth laying around. The engine has gov delete and stiffer valve springs. Old kart it was on had a 12 tooth and 52 tooth and it hit 45mph on that

Haha it’s temporary until I get the right length spacers and bolts. Just made from whatever I had laying around. It was also to clear the frame with the gas tank

Ok please explain as if I don’t know what any of those big words mean haha

here’s what it looks like after it catches and I turn it off

I have a kart I built fresh. Got it all put together and if I go slow it catches and can drive it fast. But if I mash the gas or even start normally the belt gets caught in the driven pulley (not engine) which fails to bring the belt back up. Here’s some pics. I imagine my gear ratio is off or...