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Well I got my 2004 FZ1 to make 142hp to the rear wheel. 66 cubic inches with CV carbs. Pretty low performance I would say..

Have you ever thought of using a CV carb. Something like in the 32~34mm range?

Stop dicking with the plugs.. https://www.14point7.com/products/sigma-lambda-controller-free-2 If you are insistent on reading plugs get some real leaded ethanol/MTBE free fuel so you have something to look at..

n2O... Here is a suggestion.. get it running.. in something.. tune it/get the bugs worked out.. then feed it the N20.. And use a real system like this https://www.holley.com/products/nitrous/hidden_systems/parts/05029NOS I foresee "Hemi build #3" real soon.. :thumbsup:

Is it done yet?

I have a question about that flywheel... Is it machined for the correct taper for the 60363 Predator.. I know the taper is different from Honda GX/other clone engines.

Yes and No... Quench, swirl, tumble can increase the speed of burn. Sometimes you have to pull timing back near the rpm limit.. The only way to optimize timing is during a constant load on a dyno..

The time it takes for the coil to saturate and create a spark is relatively constant. As an example say it takes 6ms for the coil to charge/discharge with a spark. At idle the amount the crank moves in 6ms is very small then when at 8,000rpm.. Points or a transistor trigger sometimes are not...

So Bob,, why does the timing retard with increased rpm?

Holy valve shrouding...

http://www.14point7.com/ If you like to tinker.. I used of few of there products..

I assume its is a 212cc.. Post a pic of the rusty cylinder wall..

this is the one I use http://www.nrracing.com/product-p/qmnrr-7.htm

I was asking if the oil smelled like gas because a flooding carb (bad needle and seat) will slowly start to fill the crank case. The grossly over filled level will "blow" oil all over the engine.. If you pull the dipstick/fill and the oil comes gushing out it may be a problem.

Does the oil in the crank case smell like gas?

Part of the problem is the carb you are using is from a utility engine with almost twice the displacement ment to run at 3600rpm.. I assume when you wack the throttle open it goes lean because velocity through the carb drops to much. It would take an accelerator pump to cover the lean "hole"...

Are u still messing with jetting..:toetap05: Anyhoo.. I will repeat what I said (was that 20 or 40 pages ago?) IMO. Start with a main jet that is known to be to have a rich mixture. Keep going smaller on the main until your "butt" dyno feels a loss of power or no change. Once you get to that...

Me thinks after reading all this (it's quite ocd) that clearing the return port in the master cylinder would allow you to bleed them.

Nothing wrong with using a fuel pump. The problem happens when you have a carb set up for gravity feed (large float needle and seat) and try to use a fuel pump.

Most hardware stores should have some bits of 1/8" plate. It does not have to be 1/8" (1/8" 3/16, 1/4). The plate will help spread the force out into the frame. Having the hole not centered in the frame rail is not a problem, drill the corresponding offset in the plate. Bolts have a tendency...