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How do I check if the valves aren't on top of a piston?

So this is a video of me showing the pull start then turning the crank by hand with no camshaft in it please listen to the sounds. Sorry for rendering it in low quality lol https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=aH2WGt1Zop0&feature=youtu.be

Ok great thanks for the tips. I will drain the oil tomorrow and then take pics and update as well.

I will tomorrow

Yes it is scraping in the engine. The scraping comes from the pointy thing that is on a joint attached to the main smaller gear in the engine... I believe the connecting rod? I opened up the engine and saw it barely scraping the bottom of it as it comes down. I am not sure if this has to do...

Well I set the lash correctly and then put new oil in the engine. It seemed to run good for the 15 minutes I let it idle. Then I started it up again with the chain and clutch attached and it ran good for 10 more minutes. Right when I turned it off I heard something clunk and now the pull start...

I know the cam timing and push rods are in correctly so I am banking on it being the valve lash. Thanks for your help. I will update when I get the feeler gauges

I will try that. Would the valve lash really be off if its a brand new engine? Do you know where I can get the thin strips to measure the amount of an inch for it?

update: I took the side panel off and the camshaft was actually in place... maybe it was binding? It was pretty hard to take out. When I put everything back together I tried the pull start to make sure it would turn..... It is hard to pull and the thing kicked back so hard I almost broke it...

For the second time, I try to pull start my engine from being cold and the pull just locks up completely. I open up the shaft side and the camshaft came up. This is a brand new engine and I took the governor out. The first time it happened it was also because the pull rods weren't in place. I...

Is a 5:1 ratio really that bad? I wanted it to have a faster top end speed. I was told that 5:1 is the minimum gear ratio but still okay.

Thank you. I am just going to buy a new sprocket then. It seems that there are no whole sprockets for 60 teeth and #35 chain. Just bought a split one and hope it works...

Does this help

I already bought a #35 clutch and chain for my go kart but didn't bother checking the sprocket on the axle... the chain is too small for it. Now I am wondering if I should buy a new sprocket, or just buy the correct size clutch/chain. Here are some pictures:

Do these clutches usually come with the end bolt? Another thread said that the bolt should be 5/16, 24 count. Also the last step is mounting the engine which I should be able to manage. Thanks for virtually building my go kart! :wai:

I just picked up the kart from the person I bought it from, and it is pretty small. Looks bigger in the picture. I can fit in it, but I don't think I want to go 40 in it lol. With 5:1 gear ratio, 11" tires, and governor taken out I should expect around 30mph. I just went and got the predator...

I really appreciate the help. So I should go ahead and purchase that TC, and then get the appropriate sprocket for the engine 4:1 ratio. All these adjustments will make the engine safe from dying? With the governor out and having a 4:1 ratio how much would that shorten this engines life...

Okay thanks. So the engine is around $120, and i'm wondering what tav2 means? Would this one work http://www.amazon.com/TORQUE-CONVERTER-CLUTCH-COMET-218353A/dp/B00FQQ2CXG#customerReviews Also are there any cheaper torque converters? And what kind of gasket would I need Thank you :)

Thank you for the detailed response! I definitely want my kart to go at least 30-40mph. What's the best way to make that happen?

Hello, This is my first go kart and I got this frame off someone for $100. I am going to buy an engine for it soon and also want to buy a sprocket at the same time. Let's assume I buy this engine: http://gokartsusa.com/Honda-Gokart-Engine-Minibike-65-3.aspx I am confused about gear...