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I use one for a 700lb buggy and just by removing the gov, shaving .30 off of the timing key, opening up the intake adding a 32mm mikuni and making an 1 1/2 exhaust it moves it at about 50mph and still has lots of torque for climbing:thumbsup:

it can be done and once you get the clutches and gear ratio dialed in as well as upgrading the motor a bit it can definitely spin a 25" tires on a 700lb buggy:thumbsup: http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=17213&page=2

yes you will need to use the brake to stop it so you can shift and I use mine as a rear/emergency brake

I can't remember for sure but I think the clone shaft is a 10mm stock. I drilled it deeper and taped it for the 3/8 polaris clutch bolt (before I cut it), I believe you could use a 10mm bolt if you get a bushing that will work with the clutch. I needed to cut the shaft only for fitment in my...

the plan is to run an 10si alternator with it if I ever get around to installing it:rolleyes:

thanks I like it here is the new link, I guess they moved things around http://www.cartpartsplus.com/performance/clutches/tapered-clutch-adapter

thought I would post a couple of updates, I ended up changing my front spindles to run a hydraulic brake, got rid of the hand controls and switched to a standard steering wheel, added a 32mm Mikuni CV carb, and changed the frame some. Its been running well and fun to drive.

:iagree: if you do it this way you don't have to worry about the governor anymore :rolleyes:

It sounds like it may not be getting enough fuel, did you change the air intake or exhaust at all and if not have you checked to make sure the fuel lines are clear and the carb is cleen. if the carb is clean and there are no mystery pieces of junk in it than you may have to look at your jet...

something to look for depending on where you live is an older polaris ATV as this will get you a set of clutches set for about 450lbs and a transmission. Alot of times the motor is no good and people just want them out of the yard, keep an eye out:thumbsup:

I hate to disagree but I have a 150cc Gy6 a 250cc CF250 and a 420cc HF Predator motor on three different buggy's and the clone is about a quarter more on power than the 250 and the 150 isn't even in the same range. on hills the 250 only has a chance against the 420 in a low gear. I would say if...

something like this could be used with a smaller atv muffler to adjust the amount of flow / noise. http://www.ebay.com/itm/190741896340?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1497.l2648

just interested if after porting all of the valve components as well as the fly wheel need to be upgraded or is this just helping it breath? looks good:thumbsup: and now i'm in trouble:idea2:

you can use a polaris atv clutch on that engine with a few mods. http://www.diygokarts.com/vb/showthread.php?t=17213 these clutches are very tunable and can take much more than the engine can give.

I used a Polaris magnum front drive as my rear IRS unit and scratch built the arms and hubs, it works pretty well so far;)

try out this place http://www.bmikarts.com/shop/?shop=1&cat=272

some video of my buggy I set the driven clutch with a black spring at 3 on the sheave and 1 on the helix the driver has a blue/green spring and 55g weights I removed the gov and drilled the stock carb to .040 running about 4500rpm I get about 35mph with a little left over:thumbsup...

thanks

never mind, I had bean setting them at TDC instead of by the individual valve:mad2: will try the correct way tomorrow

I am looking for information on the proper valve lash for a 420cc HF clone, ( stock ) - gov. I currently have it set at .004 for both and it seams to run ok but backfires on shut down:worried2: any help or experience would be appreciated