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I looked again at the close up image of the oil hole coming in from the scoop. If you look, there is a pattern on only one side of the hole, sort of pointing towards the inside of the con rod. Let's assume contaminated oil, with say pumice stone dust, the rotation of crank would be pulling oil...

I don't suspect lack of oil either. Contamination is possible, might be the oil funnel at the track. If so it's almost comically absurd. Rod to crank clearance measured at .002" with plastigauge. It's on the small side.

Fair enough. A spiral on the crank could be helpful for oiling. A hole is relatively easy to do but a spiral is a bit more tricky and I'm not exactly sure how to accomplish that with a decent degree of accuracy. It's sometimes difficult when one doesn't have the background in engines to know...

Any groove that's straight provides an area of no contact between the 2 parts. So whether the crank doesn't touch the rod or it's the rod journal not touching the crank, I feel you have equal total surface area and thus the same wear. I could be thinking about it wrong but anway... So what about...

Is there any benefit to a groove in the crank rather than a groove in the conrod journal?

Another idea, what about putting a hole in the crank shaft? Pretty easy to do and it's hollow. There is no oil pump like in a car, but since oil is sprayed everywhere, I'd think this would be a reasonable path for oil to get to the conrod journal?

I made up a spoon a one connecting rod. After drilling it I realized I should have angled the drill towards the center. Can't angle it too much or it will break through the bolt hole, but a little anyway. I'll give this a shot.

I have been known to overthink things. Having had rod failure over and over, I've certainly had time to think. I would like to keep the engine serviced, but I'd very like to abuse it at 8000rpm in a go kart. I can accept that a hole in the cap is a bad idea. I can skip that. The scoop idea...

There is a story behind that! That's is very far from what I'm seeing on my connecting rods, but it sure is interesting.

One of my original concerns was that the rod end is deforming under high RPM, going oval a bit from stretching and the oil is starved as a result, or the film is too thin on the elongated sides. This has no base in data and is likely just my over active imagination. @RLS_Underground has a good...

Thanks, and that kart looks like a ton of fun! With this rod, if I fit the bushings, there is very little material left on the rod itself. I could Tig more material on top of the cap I guess. I suspected oil starvation, but EVERYONE seem to just use a CNC rod. My issue is that importing a rod...

I'm trying to design a connecting rod for a GX200. My goal is to make a cheap'ish connecting rod that will do something like 8000rpm. I don't want to be as fancy as an Arc Racing rod, the cost for small batch production is too high. I need to limit the number of setups for machining but more...

Thanks, I might try that kind of bracket. What I don't love about it is how the screws for the coil are very short into aluminum. I was thinking to redesign my bracket and just have 1 set of holes. 1 bracket, 1 offset in degrees. laser cut stuff is cheap, though it wouldnt' be as nice to...

Interesting. Assuming what he does works, it's a pretty straight forward process. Might be worth trying...

Thanks, I'll give it a shot.

I have several PWK24's as well. Any guess what the jetting should be? To be clear, you're saying if I use a larger carb, I'll be able to lean it out? It's easy swap for me just counter intuitive to my way of thinking. Since I don't know much about engines that's not surprising. I also have every...

I was at the track yesterday trying to tune the carb. After playing around, seems like I need very small jets even for the PWK21 carb. I suspect I've been running things pretty rich. I put in 32 pilot jet and 95 main and it seems to run OK. I modified a new clutch by splitting half the weights...

I always put a strip across the whole thing. It's really unrelated to the BMS, and gives you a higher current capacity path, but it's the same current going to the BMS no matter how large that wire/strip is. Just looking at the pack and the requirements, the easiest, assuming you ran into a...

So in further thought and discussion with an electrical engineer friend, the gut feeling is it should be OK. *No warranty implied or otherwise on gut feelings* Ratings are for a certain temperature rise, it's not like an extra 1A and they blow. So 22A continuous it might eventually melt or just...

Yes 100% goes through that strip. If it really limits it to 22A, then that's all the strip will see. Also keep in mind there is an implied duty cycle rating with this. Meaning it melts but doesn't happen instantly, so it can take 22A for 1 out of every 3 seconds, or if it's a 0.2mm strip, 1 out...