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This may work, cut the two pipes with enough wiggle room to adjust the engine and it should keep it low enough to not burn me, but high enough to stay our of harm if I get into rough areas.

Any recommendations on how to run it? The engine will have room to slide forward a bit, and trying to run it underneath posed dragging issues and where it sits now there is only a small portion where it comes out of the engine under my lag, but the wrap should help to some degree. As far as...

Thinking maybe run the exhaust something like this with header wrap the length of the pipe to the muffler, high temp flat black for the muffler. I think it will solve my chestnut roasting problem, and have a unique look at the same time.

You're killin me here. If you can get some detailed pictures of how the throttle cable is hooked up on both ends, and get that sprocket tooth count for me, I'm still shooting in the dark trying to help you out!

Here's the throttle cable set up, something along these lines is proper. A 12t clutch will make your ratio higher, 10t is the best you'll get on a clutch in your chain pitch. Did you get the axle sprocket teeth counted today? That sprocket can make all the difference if it doesn't have enough teeth.

I'll get better pics in the morning, I have to hook up a new throttle on my dingo anyway.

This is how its hooked up on literally every predator I own.

Adjusting the cable is pretty straightforward, make sure the black sleeve stays stationary, and the cable doesn't have any slack when not depressed, just tight enough the pedal and carb work with each other with pressure on the pedal. There might be an adjustment point by the pedal, there is...

When you push the pedal does it for sure open the carb all the way? Might have slack in the throttle cable causing you to only get a portion of available throttle.

The wheel spins, or the clutch spins?

Please count the teeth, cant be of much help unless I know

From the picture I'll run on educated guesses, tires look to be 15x6.00-6, with a 10t clutch you need a 60t axle sprocket to make it perform. I have a manco two seater, same size tires, 10t clutch and 60t axle sprocket with a governed predator 212cc, one wheel peel just like yours and it will...

10t clutch is a start, if you have 18" tires and a 10t axle sprocket it will burn a clutch before it moves. Need the details, exact counts and sizes. The more you help us, the more we can help you.

First guess is gear ratio. Supply us with the tooth count on the clutch sprocket and the axle sprocket, as well as the tire size of the drive wheel. Should be able to get it straightened out.

Good luck! I'm trying to talk my friend into going chain driven and steel wheels on their funder wheels.

Well hey, there's a name I haven't seen in a while! Thanks for the compliment. She sure would have been a blast in the foot of snow we got last week. Both kids will be back in school tomorrow so I'll have a little time to get some welding done and hopefully get to ride it in the next snow.

Got a few things a little more straightened out, added a speedometer as well. I'll be adding about an inch to the height of the back of the seat somehow, and I'll need to add the jackshaft housing. Would like to add my 68t axle sprocket, but I think I'll see how it does with the gear reduction...

He wants too much in my opinion, too much home made remedies for me at that price, maybe if he'd take $150-175, figure the fiberglass seat is worth around $50, I can get a non running honda clone for $50 or less, and a rolling chassis is worth at least $50, I'd say nothing more than $200 because...

I looked and attempted for 25ish years to find one close to what I had as a kid, even then had to mix and match stuff, and I'll have to rebuild the spring front end I have as its bent badly. If you can acquire even one they are fairly rare if they are factory frames and not home made. I slightly...

Been wondering about this, can a t/c function properly if ran in-board like this? The sprocket on the jackshaft is kinda janky too.