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This makes some sense. This belt took some abuse before I adjusted the carb. There is a lot of belt dust, and it is about done. I have a new comet belt, but I want to make sure I get this right and not chew it up immediately too. I think this TC actually was smooth when brand new... You can...

maybe I'll order a second cheap chinese one so we have backup... couldn't hurt. I am interested in thoughts on the 44 vs. the 40. If someone was going for true "comet" parts, they are the same price. Why wouldn't someone always choose the 44?

Well, it is nearly new. Might have 5 hours on it. I built my driven pulley on a jackshaft, and installed it the way it was meant to be, so I don't think I should need the reverse wound spring.... as far as I know. (Red spring, sitting on the right side of the pulley as you look at the back of...

I am considering the same thing... but I believe I'm going to go with a mini denso 30A. I'd be interested in hearing what you did for a pulley behind the driver.

How much can one expect from the honda charging coils (two installed)

Been looking at the dimensions myself... This PDF here indicates that the driver 3 15/16 from static sheave, to the outside of the nut: https://www.bmikarts.com/PDF/Comet_40series.pdf I've also seen reference that it could be 3 7/8, but that might be for the 44 series driver, either way...

This new ebay purchased 40 series converter has maybe 3 hours on it and it sticks.... retracts about 3/4 of the way then seems to hang up I think it has been doing it since new. If we shut the engine totally down, after a second it will "pop" back to full retraction, but it is delayad a bit...

The sprocket hub, as one might expect took the worst of it.... I couldn't actually remove it (It was very tight brand new, even without the bolt clamped). I just did enough to position it. Tried to tap it into a "trued" position, but it still has a bit of throw in it. Everything else seems...

Somewhere I found the specs for the 80V, and they reported as 72V nominal, and the math makes sense. I'd be surprised if they actually charge to different max voltages.... 82V brings the cells to 4.1V, which is a safe limit, and I think fairly standard. L-ion cells "can" go to 4.2V per cell...

Okay so I can't help myself. I found specs on both of the greenworks 80v and 82v batteries. They are both nominally 72V packs, indicating they are 20cell packs, that will really both likely peak at 82V (if the charger will take them there). I'm guessing the 80 vs 82V rating is to make it...

So, everything in those pictures looks like awesome stuff to me :). It would be fun to get my hands on one of those motors, and any of the suspension parts. I'm not an EV expert, but I do have some electronics knowledge and did research building a homemade EV for commuting. It didn't pan out...

Cool project, keep it going. The controller really dictates everything as I understand it. The one you specified is rated at 36-48V, 450amps. I assume it will regulate the 80v down for you? If so, the 240A draw capability of the pack will go up. i.e. if drawing at 40V, the amperage...

Well you did say it came from the "670cc" forum.... is he actually running the Skidoo 670cc snowmobile engine (vs the predator 670)? Those things are screamers. EDIT: Eh, nevermind, I see a valve cover.

Well I have many more updates to put out here for you guys.... it just takes some time to put together the pics and videos while you're scrambling to actually do the work and still go to all the family holiday events. ...I have made some improvements and discoveries on the transmission mount...

Sound advice. They are only nylon until they go under the floor, then transition to hard line, then back to nylon, then hard line again before finally making it to the caliper. I'll make an overview of it soon, but I still do question if I should have run them on top. They are somewhat...

Here is a short overview video.... a bit off the cuff, but you'll get a quick go around of the kart.

Okay, some pictures. The steering arm that took the worse beating: The other side is bent too, but not near as bad. I don't have a before picture of the A-arm, but this is how I straightened it. I installed it upside down, then supported each end with blocks, and tried to reverse how the...

With the goofy way I set up the steering rack and rods, the boots actually caused bind before full lock, and also shortened where the tie rods mount to the steering arm (I had drilled a couple options in the temporary bracket I made to accommodate ackermans angle). So I took off the steering...

Okay gents, I've been at it for a few weeks to get this all dialed in and rolling, and I was doing decent... lets see, what did I do. Finished up a custom exist pipe/can install and a mount, burned in all the welds on the subframe, transmission mount and painted it the subframe. Sized and...